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Test/review of DMM Mustool X3

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DMM Mustool X3
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A clamp meter from Mustool that can only measure AC current.
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I got the meter in a generic clamp meter brown cardboard box with very little information on.
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Inside the box was a pouch with everything in it, except the manual that did not fit in the pouch.
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It included the DMM, a pair of probes, a thermocoupler and a manual.
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The probes are unbranded and marked for 1000V CATIII, but they do not have the partial tip cover.
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The shrouded plug is the slightly short variety.
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Flashlight is at the bottom of the meter, not the best position for a clamp meter.
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There is access to the electronic inside the battery box, but it do not look like calibration terminals (Maybe on another model).
Display
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The above picture shows all the segments on the display, not all are used.
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Typical display during usage, it will show the number and what measurement is selected.
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Meter is in auto mode, where it will automatic change to current, voltage or ohm.
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In NCV mode it shows bars depending on field strength, but it is not very sensitive, a live mains wire (230VAC) touching the clamp only got me one bar.
Functions
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The list of functions do fully not match the sequence they are selected in.
Buttons:


    power: Change mode: Auto/VDC/VAC/Continuity/Diode/Capacity/Celsius/Fahrenheit, hold down to turn on off.
    light: Turn flashlight on/off.
  • NCV: Hold down to activate non contact voltage detection
  • HOLD: Press to freeze display, hold down to turn background light on.

Input
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Clamp, used for AC current measurement.
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These terminals are used for Voltage, ohm, diode, continuity and temperature.

  • COM: The common terminal
  • xxx: The positive terminal.

Measurements

  • Volt and frequency

    • 1 VAC is 5% down at 2.1kHz (RMS will not work at the frequency).
    • Input impedance is 820kOhm on DC and AC
    • Initial range selection is a auto mode with ohm, continuity, volt DC/AC and ampere AC.
    • Auto will show VAC from about 0.47V and VDC from about 0.45V
    • Overload protection 700VDC or 500VAC peak

  • Current

    • Ampere range will kick in when measuring above 0.10A (Display shows 0.15A, but will drop)
    • Clamp can handle about ø27mm

  • Ohm, Continuity, diode and capacitance

    • Ohm needs about 1s to measure 100ohm (This is very fast for an auto ranging meter)
    • Ohm is 0.4V open and 0.15mA shorted
    • Continuity in auto mode is very slow (About 1.2s).
    • Continuity in continuity mode is very fast (About 10ms).
    • Continuity beeps when resistance is below 50ohm (Both modes).
    • Continuity is 0.6V open and 0.33mA shorted
    • Diode range uses 3.2V, max. display is 3.000V at 0.07mA, max. current is 1.0mA shorted
    • 10uF takes about 6.5 seconds to measure.
    • 11000uF takes about 13 seconds to measure.
    • 70000uF takes about 15 seconds to measure.
    • Overload protection 700VDC or 500VAC peak

  • Miscellaneous

    • Current consumption of meter is from 1.5mA to 3.5mA in continuity (11mA with backlight, 11mA with flashlight and 16mA with both).
    • Meter works down to 2.2V where it turns off, battery symbol shows at 2.4V.
    • Reading is stable until meter turns off
    • Backlight fades with voltage and works down to where meter turns off.
    • Flashlight fades with voltage and works down to where meter turns off.
    • The meter usual need a couple of display update to reach the final value.
    • Viewing angle is good.
    • Display updates around 3 times/sec
    • Backlight will automatic turn off in about 15 seconds.
    • Flashlight will not automatic turn off, but turns off with the meter.
    • Will automatic turn power off in about 15 minutes.
    • Standard probes cannot be pushed fully down.
    • Weight is 194g without accessories, but with batteries.
    • Size is 179 × 67 × 33mm

  • Probes

    • Probe resistance 48mOhm for one.
    • Probe wire is fairly soft and 74cm long.


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Auto range pulsing while searching for resistance and checking for voltages.
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Capacity waveform while measuring 1uF
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Meter is permanent in Low-Z mode.
Specification in manual are a mix between clamp meter and ordinary current meter and resolution includes an extra digit.
Tear down
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I had to remove 3 screws to open the meter.
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Circuit board is shaped to fit this enclosure, there is even a bump to match the enclosure opposite the clamp open handle.
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I had to remove 6 screw more to the get circuit board out, the clamp could just be pulled out.
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There is five wires into the clamp, two wires for a coil in each part and a wire for NCV.
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The input has the usually 3 paths with 10Mohm (Two MELF resistors), 1Mohm (910kOhm more exact: A small SMD resistor) and a PTC. The PTC goes to a electronic relay (AQV259A: 1000V relay) and then to a transistor pair for protection (T5 & T10) and from there through a resistor (R23: 1kOhm) into the multimeter IC. The more exiting path is the 1Mohm path, it goes directly to a pin on the multimeter IC and limits in the input impedance because the chips protection will divert any voltage above a few volt.
The multimeter chip (IC2: DMM1106BEN, but marked as HY12P65 on circuit board) has a EEPROM (24C08) to store calibration in.
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A closeup of the offending input resistor (R45).
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This side has the pads for the switches and for the LCD display, nothing else.
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Conclusion
With no current input terminals the meter is safer, but letting a small SMD resistor handle the full input voltage is not safe when getting into 100’s of volts. Calling a meter CAT… 600V with a 500VAC limit is very wrong.
The meter is a AC clamp meter and with current ranges up to 600AAC, the main mode when using input terminations is automatic with voltage and resistance, using the red button there is also capacity and temperature.
It is not a bad meter after a ordinary mains outlet, but not for anything with higher voltage or current. The clamp can be used on higher current, but do not try to measure on the input terminals.
Notes
The multimeter was supplied by banggood.com for review.
How do I review a DMM
More DMM reviews

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Test/review of Hantek CC-65 Current Clamp

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Hantek CC-65 Current Clamp
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This is a high sensitivity current clamp with a BNC connector for use with both multimeters and oscilloscopes.
Specifications:


  • DC current (low range): 1.5%+5mA 10mA to 20A
  • DC current (high range): 2%+20mA 100mA to 40A
  • DC current (high range): 4%+300mA 40mA to 65A
  • AC current (low range): 2%+30mA 100mA to 10A 40Hz ~ 2kHz
  • AC current (low range): 4%+30mA 100mA to 10A 2kHz ~ 10kHz
  • AC current (low range): 6%+30mA 100mA to 10A 10kHz ~ 20kHz
  • AC current (high range): 2%+30mA 100mA to 40A 40Hz ~ 1kHz
  • AC current (high range): 4%+30mA 100mA to 40A 1kHz ~ 2kHz
  • AC current (high range): 6%+30mA 100mA to 40A 3kHz ~ 5kHz
  • AC current (high range): 8%+300mA 40A to 65A 40Hz ~ 20kHz
  • Load resistance 10kOhm typical.

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The clamp arrived in a cardboard box, it is the model that handles the lowest currents in this series.
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I did also order a BNC to banana plug adapter, this means it will fit in any multimeter with standard spacing on the input terminals.
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The box contained the clamp and a instruction sheet.
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The clamp has a single switch for off-on low range-on high range and a button to zero the output.
There is also two indicators, one for on and one for low battery.
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The BNC to banana adapter, the side with a small wing (Bottom in photo) is the shield or minus side.
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Using the clamp with a multimeter.
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Measurements

  • Power consumption is 10mA in both low and high range.
  • Low battery turns on at 6.8V, this gives an estimated runtime of 50 hours.
  • 1V output can be maintained down to 6V battery voltage in both low and high range.

When using clamps to measure DC current the DC offset and drift is often a problem, especially at low currents.
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This is for the low range where 1mV=10mA current, i.e. during the first hour the reading change about 150mA.
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After the first test I used the zero button and tried again for one hour, again the reading changed about 150mA.
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For high range 1mV=100mA, here I combined the above two tests and pressed the zero button after about 45 minutes.
During the 80 minutes after pressing the zero button the reading changed 80mA, i.e. better than the low range.
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Error while measuring low current, the high range looks best. Some of the error can be eliminated be using zero just before doing a short measurement.
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Using a coil to multiply the current I can check at much higher current ranges. The low range cannot work higher than about 20A, the high range goes above 75A.
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The clamp can be used up to about 10kHz
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Measuring a current with a oscilloscope, I have used square wave because it is easier to see when frequency is limited.
In this curve there is only a little effect from the bandwidth.
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At 10kHz it get more obvious that the raise and fall times are limited.
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At 50kHz the signal is 50% too low and it is triangular.
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Using the high range is better, maybe because the signal level is lower.
Tear-down
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I needed to remove 3 screws to open it.
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And one screw more to take the circuit board out. I also had to unlock and remove the two cables from the clamp.
The sliders from the on/off switch dropped out.
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On this clamp meter is is possible to open the clamp, I had to remove 5 screws to open the stationary part.
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It contains a iron core with hall sensors at both end. The movable part will have a matching iron core, but without any sensor chips.
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The circuit board contains 7 trimpots and 8 opAmps in 4 chips (U6: TL062C & U1, U3 &U4: 3xTLC272). There is a reference (U2: LM385). There is a chip marked PA01 below the large capacitor.
There is some protection on the output (R18, D2, D3) and the film capacitors C3 is probably used for the zero button together with the OpAmp next to it.
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This side of the circuit board has the switches and indicator leds.
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Conclusion
The clamp can be used well below 1Afor measuring, it can be used to detect 10mA, but for real measurement some more current is needed. I had hoped for better performance on the low range. When measuring for some time the current must be large enough that the drift do not spoil the result.
Using it with a oscilloscope can be used to check the waveform and amplitude of current draw, without any significant voltage loss.

My website with reviews of many chargers and batteries (More than 1000): https://lygte-info.dk/

Test/review of Clamp meter UNI-T UT258A

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Clamp meter UNI-T UT258A
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This is a clamp only meter, i.e. not really a DMM (Digital Multi Meter).
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The meter arrived in a cardboard box.
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It included the meter, a pouch, a CD, a USB/Serial cable and a manual in Chinese (A English version can be downloaded from UNI-T).
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Display
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The above picture shows all the segments on the display. It looks to be a standard DMM display, but this meter only uses part of it.
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Typical display during usage, it will show the number and what measurement is selected.
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Saving a value when pressing HOLD.
Functions
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Buttons:


  • Off/DC/AC: Slide the switch to desired mode.
  • HOLD: Use short press will freeze the display and save the current value. A longer press will switch to readout mode.

Rotary knob:

  • Zero: Turn the know to zero the current display, it is best done in DC mode.

Input
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The clamp is the only input to this meter.
Measurements

  • Current

    • The meter crashed a few times and had to be power cycled.
    • Both DC and AC will react on DC current, but the AC ranges show about 25% too high in one current direction.
    • Zero setting is common for AC and DC, but it is easier to adjust on DC due to the sign.
    • Clamp is rated for maximum 60A

  • Miscellaneous

    • Current consumption of meter is 12.3mA
    • Meter works down to 3.4V where it turns off, battery symbol show at 7.4V.
    • Meter has a small deviation below 3.6V.
    • Saved values are cleared when power is turned off.
    • Viewing angle is good, except from top.
    • Display updates around 3 times/sec
    • Will automatic turn power off in about 5 minutes.
    • Weight is 219g, with batteries.
    • Size is 216 × 65 × 35mm


TestDC
A test of DC shows that the DC offset is fairly stable and the current need to be above 10mA before it starts to work. When measuring high current (i.e. 10-60A) the clamp will be magnetized and need readjustment of zero or demagnetization before it shows correctly at low current again.
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AC also looks fine, but the sensitivity is not symmetrical around zero.
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The meter has 3 current ranges, there can be some problems around the range change points.
Software
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The meter has a USB mini connector, this is a bit old fashioned.
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The cable is worse, it has a USB mini connector in one, but a old style RS232 serial connector in the other end. This means the USB connector is not USB, but RS232 signals.
setup
I downloaded the program, instead of using the CD. The installer is in English and looks fairly standard. There was no problems installing it.
start
But it would not start.
Tear down
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To open the meter I had to remove 3 screws.
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The zero adjust turns a trimpot, this is not good for long life.
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To get the PCB out I had to remove 4 more screws.
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Somebody has done a fairly bad job of removing the type numbers from the chips. There must be some OpAmps a voltage regulator, a mux (IC7: 74HC4051), probably a ADC (The processor only has 10 bit), the large IC is a processor (IC1: M430F… 8kB flash 256B ram) and there is a RS232 driver next to it (IC8: SP3232 RS232 driver with 13V output, not a good idea on a USB cable).
The USB connector is on a small add-on board.
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In this side is the the two switches and the display, that is on a add-on board with a COB chip on the back.
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Conclusion
Being a clamp only meter means that safety is fairly good, but probably not up to CATIII rating (The clamp has metal visible and there is a USB connector at the other end. The manual states 2KV/rms).
I had hoped for a really good meter for low current, it is fairly good and it do not drift nearly as much as many other clamp meters, but it has a couple of problems.
The meter do not read symmetrical in AC mode. The USB output with 13V RS232 signals is ridiculous, the firmware crashes frequently and do not save logged value when power is turned off. The PC software do not work out of the box.
Notes
How do I review a DMM

My website with reviews of many chargers and batteries (More than 1000): https://lygte-info.dk/

Review NITECORE NSH10 - Multiuse Titanium Snap Hook

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NITECORE NSH10 - Multiuse Titanium Snap Hook

 

Immagine


NSH10 was sent to me directly by Nitecore for the review.
For technical details: https://flashlight.nitecore.com/product/nsh10
For the purchase:
https://www.nitecorestore.com/NITECORE-NSH10-Titanium-Multi-Tool-Carabiner-p/acc-nite-nsh10.htm

 



Immagine



How many times would we need a small sturdy and light carabiner to attach to the jeans buckle or to a backpack to have keys or other items quickly available?
The NITECORE NSH10 titanium carabiner is a light and elegant multipurpose edc carabiner. It has a precision workmanship and an elegant design with angular lines and a smooth, sandblasted fine finish, which allows a good grip.


Immagine

Immagine



Specifications:

Model: NSH10
Materials: titanium alloy
Weight: 7.5g (0.26oz)
Dimensions: 49mm x 25.5mm x 3.8mm (1.93 "x 1" x 0.15 ")
Use: EDC (daily transport), external, travel



Nitecore NSH10 arrives in a small blister with the main characteristics that distinguish the small carabiner listed.
 


Immagine



Nitecore NSH10 is light, weighs only 7.5 grams, and is made from a single piece of titanium alloy resistant to corrosion, wear and long life.


Immagine

Immagine



Nitecore NSH10 has a 45 degree spring lock that is easy to handle.


Immagine


Nitecore NSH10 it is easy to carry it always with you, hooked to a belt or bag loop, like a light and resistant key organizer.

Immagine

Immagine



Multi-tool functionality:

 

The NSH10 has two compartments, which can be accessed via a single latch that allows you to organize the key ring.


Immagine


Two accessory functions have been added to the Nitecore NSH10 carabiner, a bottle opener and a flathead screwdriver.
These two functions are very useful and can be used on many occasions.


Immagine

Immagine

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We see the NSH10 close to other EDCs:

Immagine



CONCLUSIONS:

The Nitecore NSH10 carabiner is a light and useful multipurpose to always carry with you. You can easily and securely attach bunches of keys or other small objects. Excellent construction and the material with which it is made. Useful the bottle opener and the flat tip to be used as a screwdriver. In conclusion it is an object that I will always carry with me considering the small size and weight and the great utility it can have.

Test/review of DMM Mustool MT110

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DMM Mustool MT110
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A meter without a rotary range switch, mode can be selected either manually or automatically.
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I got the meter in a brown cardboard box with a generic meter drawing on.
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It included the DMM, a pair of probes and a manual.
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The probes has is rated for CATIII, but do not include the partial tip covers required for CATIII or CAT IV.
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The shrouded plug is the short variety.
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The buttons requires holding some fingers behind the meter to use when on the tilting bale.
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Display
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The above picture shows all the segments on the display, not all are used.
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Typical display when turned on, it will show VDC/VAC/Ohm as needed.
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But mode can also be selected manually.
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The NCV is the usual EF with four bars, buzzer and a led.
Functions
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Buttons:


  • light: Turn flashlight on or off
  • NCV: Hold down to activate electric field detection.
  • Hold: Press to freeze display reading, hold down to turn backlight on.
  • on: Hold down to turn power on/off, press to change between auto/VDC/VAC/Continuity/diode/capacity

Input
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  • 10A: Current input
  • COM: The common terminal for all ranges.
  • xxx: All other ranges.

Measurements

  • Volt and frequency

    • 1 VAC is 5% down at 2kHz (RMS will not work at the frequency).
    • Input impedance is about 825kOhm on DC and AC
    • In auto mode it will show voltage above about 0.6V
    • If both AC and DC is present in auto it will show the highest voltage.
    • Overload protection on DC is 1000VDC and 750VAC peak according to manual.

  • Current

    • Meter will switch to current when the current is above 20mA on the current terminal.
    • Meter has audible and visual alarm when current is 10A or above.
    • Current is protected by a 10A/250V 5×20mm ceramic fuse.
    • Current ranges must only be used up to 36VDC or 25VAC

  • Ohm, Continuity, diode and capacitance

    • Ohm needs about 1.68s to measure 100ohm
    • Ohm is 0.4V open and 0.19mA shorted
    • Continuity is 0.6V open and 0.19mA shorted
    • If voltage is detected in continuity mode the meter will switch to auto mode and show the voltage.
    • Continuity is very fast (below 10ms).
    • Continuity beeps when resistance is below 50ohm.
    • Continuity flashes a small red led together with the beep.
    • Diode range uses 3.3V, max. display is 3.000V at 0.11mA, max. current is 1.35mA shorted
    • 10uF takes about 7 seconds to measure.
    • 70000uF takes about 13 seconds to measure.
    • It may switch to voltage range if voltage is applied in these modes (Depends on polarity and actual voltage).

  • Miscellaneous

    • Current consumption when off is below 1uA
    • Current consumption of meter is 1.7mA, 9.5mA with backlight or flashlight and 15mA with both.
    • Meter turns off at 2.2V, battery symbol show at 2.4V.
    • Reading is stable with changing battery voltage
    • Backlight & flashlight varies with voltage, but are usable until meter turns off.
    • The meter often shows a wrong value before the correct reading.
    • Viewing angle is good.
    • Display updates around 3 times/sec
    • Flashlight can be manually turn on/off and will turn off when the meter turns off.
    • Backlight will turn off in about 15 seconds
    • Will automatic turn power off after about 16 minutes
    • Standard probes cannot be pushed fully down.
    • Weight is 207g without accessories, but with rubber sleeve and batteries.
    • Size is 145 × 69 × 35mm with rubber sleeve.

  • Probes

    • Probe resistance 50mOhm for one.
    • Probe wire is soft and 74cm long.


10uF
A look at the capacitance measurement waveform.
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In auto mode the input pulses 3 times a second to check for resistance or voltage.
DMMschema
Maximum voltage is different between manual and meter, Manual 1000VDC/750VAC Meter: 800VDC/600VAC
The 10nF range shows a bit too high at lower values (6% at 1nF).
A high DC voltage can block for AC reading when AC is manually selected.
The multimeter is basically always in Low-Z mode.
Tear down
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I had to remove four screws to open the meter.
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And 6 screws to get the circuit board out.
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On this side is the 10A fuse, buzzer, capacitors and the flashlight led. The NCV antenna can be seen at the top, it is on both sides.
The two missing ICs are probably for a electronic relay.
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On this side is the mechanical relay for connecting the current generator used in ohm/continuity/diode/capacity. There is a PTC in series with the relay for protection and a transistor pair (T7 & T11) for clamp after it. The relay needs two driver transistor (T9 & T10) for its set and reset coils.
The input resistors do not match the values on the circuit board. There is a 900kOhm input (R51) and a 10Mohm input (R52 & R55: 2×5Mohm). Because they are always in parallel the input impedance is around 825kOhm. I wonder why there is a transient clamping diode in parallel with the 0.01ohm current shunt, it will not protect much (It needs a series resistor).
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The actual multimeter IC do not have a type number on it. There is a 24C08 EEPROM for calibration storage.
Conclusion
As usual the CAT rating is invalid, it meter is fine to use up to mains voltage, as long as it is secured with a not too large fuse.
The meter works nicely and the auto selection of VDC/VAC/ohms is definitely usable. The continuity is very fast (Not the beep in auto). The meter is rather limited in ranges and input impedance is on the low side, but it will handle the most command measurements for home or some hobbies.
Notes
The multimeter was supplied by Banggood for review.
How do I review a DMM
More DMM reviews

My website with reviews of many chargers and batteries (More than 1000): https://lygte-info.dk/

Test/review of DMM East Tester ET3240

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DMM East Tester ET3240
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This is a low end bench meter with interface for computer control.
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It arrives in a big very solid cardboard box with the DMM well protected inside.
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It includes the meter, a manual, a calibration certificate stating that the meter is in calibration, mains cable, a pair of probes with alligator clips and spare fuses.
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Standard probe, that looks like CATII types.
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The plug is fully shrouded.
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Isolated alligator clips to mount on the probes.
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The front has the display, the buttons and the input.
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The handle can be placed in many positions, but the locking is rather loose.
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On the bag is mains input with a fuse, a USB connector and the mA fuse.
Display
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The display uses a color LCD with a main value and a secondary display that is very well used to show secondary values selected with the blue buttons. Default secondary reading is percent of range or frequency for AC measurements.
The bottom of the screen is used to show the current settings, the blue buttons are NOT soft keys.
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Adjusting some settings for MAX+B and Limits mode.
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A four terminal ohm reading of a 100ohm 0.01% resistor.
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Statistic.
Functions
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  • Stats: Select statistic mode, this works in voltage, current, resistance, capacitance and frequency.
  • MAX+B: Show a calculated value (Y) on secondary display. Use enter and arrows to configurate multiply and sum factors.
  • dB: Show dB relative to 1V (default) on secondary display.
  • dBm: Show dB relative to 600ohm (default) or 0.775V on secondary display.
  • REL: Relative mode, current value is used as reference and shown on secondary display. Will also change between 2W/4W mode with RTD sensors.

DSC_2872
On some buttons the SHIFT function are the top line on other it is the bottom line.


  • DC V: DC voltage, always starts in 20V range.
  • AC V: AC voltage.
  • Ohm: Press once for two wire ohms and twice for four wire ohms readings.
  • Freq/Period: Press once for frequency and twice for period.
  • DC I: DC current.
  • AC I: AC current.
  • Cont: Press once for continuity and twice for diode mode.
  • Temp: Press once for capacitance and twice for temperature. In temperature the arrows select sensor type and ENTER is used to enter the ambient temperature.
  • AC+DC: Press SHIFT and then AC+DC to AC+DC measurement in AC voltage and current.
  • Hold/Duty: Press to freeze reading, use SHIFT first to select duty cycle mode.
  • Cal/Auto: Press to select auto range, use SHIFT first for calibration (6 digit password required).
  • Trig/Ext: Press to enter single measurement mode, each press will do a new measurement. Ext is not used on this meter.
  • Limit/Save: Press to save subsequent measurement (Works fine with TRIG). Press SHIFT first to select limits and alarm mode (Use ENTER and arrows).
  • 1/X/MEM: Press to read the saved values, use SHIFT first to show 1/value on secondary display.
  • Exit/Sys: Press to see/set system stuff, use SHIFT first to leave some modes.
  • SHIFT: Must be pressed before some keys to activate the function.
  • F1: Keyboard lock.
  • Arrows: Arrows and ENTER are used to adjust and select values/ranges.

Input
The inputs are only CAT II 300V rated, i.e. the meter is not designed for industrial and service on electric installations.
DSC_2870


  • HI: The voltage, frequency, capacitance, diode, etc. positive input.
  • LO: The voltage, frequency, capacitance, diode, etc. negative input.
  • HIsense: Four terminal ohm.
  • LOsense: Four terminal ohm.
  • 100mA: Current low input, meter is rated for 240mA on this terminal.
  • 10A: Current high input

Measurements

  • Volt and frequency

    • At 100mVrms frequency input range is from 1Hz to 20MHz (The dual display voltage/frequency is limited to 120kHz).
    • Frequency counter can handle a DC offset of at least 9.8V when measuring 0.1Vrms (The input impedance will be fairly low).
    • Duty cycle works from 5% to 95% at 10kHz with 1Vpp, precision is within 3.0 (Higher input voltage do not improve readings).
    • 1 VAC is 5% down at 120kHz, rms will not work at this frequency (It looks like the meter applies a correction depending on the measured frequency).
    • Period is 1/frequency, it do not show high/low period time.
    • Min/max captures in about 160ms on fast speed, but requires a couple of samples.
    • Min/max is based on normal measurements, there is no special mode/circuit to make faster captures, this is standard for bench meters.
    • Meter can show dB with either 1V (Adjustable) or 600ohm (Adjustable from 1 to 9999ohm) reference level.
    • Input impedance is 10Mohm on the high DC ranges.
    • Input impedance is 1Mohm capacitive coupled on AC ranges, but DC couple when using AC+DC.
    • mVDC & 2VDC range is high impedance.
    • Frequency input is a few kOhm above 3V

  • Current

    • Low current ranges is protected with a 0.5A/250V 5×20mm glass fuse accessible from outside.
    • High current ranges is protected with a soldered 5×20mm glass fuse.
    • Most current ranges has their own shunt instead of a x10 amplifier, this means better precision, but also higher voltage drop on some ranges.
    • mA current terminal will disconnect shortly when changing range.
    • There is no warning about using the wrong current input terminal, but the reading will be wrong.

  • Ohm, Continuity, diode and capacitance

    • Ohm needs about 2.4s to measure 100ohm in default slow and about 1.8s on fast.
    • Ohm is up to 3.2V open (1V in 200Mohm range) and 0.67mA shorted
    • Continuity speed is moderate (About 100ms).
    • Continuity beeps when resistance is below 30ohm, this is adjustable from 0 to 2000ohm
    • Continuity is 3.3V open and 0.16mA shorted
    • Diode range uses 3.3V, max. display is 1.64V at 0.35mA, max. current is 0.67mA shorted
    • 10uF takes about 3 seconds to measure.
    • 1000uF takes about 16 seconds to measure.

  • Miscellaneous

    • I did not find a ambient temperature compensation, the ambient temperature must be entered manually for thermocouplers.
    • PT & Cu sensors can both be used in 2 wire and 4 wire mode, it is changed by the REL button.
    • The calibration procedure is documented, but it requires a 6 digit password and that is not documented.
    • Power consumption when on is 4.4 watt
    • Viewing angle is good.
    • Display update speed depends on settings (2, 5, 7 / second)
    • Weight is 2200g including bumpers.
    • Size is 300 x 270 × 104mm including bumpers and handle.

  • Probes

    • Probe resistance 32mOhm for one.
    • Probe wire is very soft and 104cm long.


1uF
A look at the capacitance measurement waveform.
2mA-20mA
Current auto range, there is a few ms where the burden voltage is due to the protection diodes, not the shunt resistors. It looks like there is some contact bounce on the relay.
From 20mA to 200mA the voltage drop is about 1.4V, but the time is shorter.
DMMschema
The meter has a slight issue in the high mA range, the input terminal is labeled 100mA, but the range is 240mA
High AC voltage can block DC readings.
AC voltage is 1Mohm input impedance.
Software
The meter includes a CD with software and manual, but that was a rather big disappointment.:

  • The manuals on the CD cannot be opened by a PDF reader.
  • The program is in both a 32 & 64 bit version, when installing it the only thing I got was a STM serial port driver.
  • The meter do not include any documentation for the SCPI protocol (I got it directly from Banggood).
  • The protocol is not correct SCPI.
  • There are some bugs in the protocol, like 200A range when selecting 2A or 10A range and missing temperature.
  • Temperature is not supported in the SCPI protocol.

There is one good detail with the implementation: it answers very fast, sampling at the fastest conversion speed is no problem.
I implemented the meter in TestController, here is some examples:
Mode
I support most modes in the meter
Setup
And some configuration, this is present for all modes with ranges.
Values
Getting the current reading from the meter and showing some statistic.
ReadOut
Large digit readout on the desktop.
Table
Collecting the data in a table.
VoltageCurve
Making a curve of the data.
Tear down
DSC_3049
To open it I had to remove two screws and pull the handle out.
DSC_3050
Most of the meter is on a single circuit board. There is a IO board at the back. The main input goes to the circuit board where the switch is mounted and then back to the transformer. There is a isolation slot between the mains part and the rest of the circuit (nice).
The mA fuse is connected to the circuit board with wires and a connector.
DSC_3051
There is no parts on this side of the circuit board.
DSC_3054
A closeup of the backside of the circuit board. two budge wires can be seen.
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DSC_3056
DSC_3057
The IO port only have the USB connector mounted. These is also space for a RS232 output with a driver chip and for trigger and square wave connectors.
DSC_3060
DSC_3061
The front side circuit board. The flat cable is for USB connector, it is handled here. It also looks like the trigger and square wave may be controlled from this processor.
DSC_3062
The power supply part of the circuit board. It looks like +/- 5V (U20 & U22: 7805 & 7809) and a more powerful 5V (U21: 7805) with heatsink.
Next is a isolated switching supply for the front panel, it also has opto isolated connections to the main board
DSC_3063
DSC_3064
This part is the electronic range switch, a large part of it is done with relays. There is a big red input capacitor for the AC ranges.
There is four diodes (D13..D16) that handles overload on mA ranges and limits the voltage drop when changing current range.
DSC_3065
The 12A range has a fuse, but it is soldered into a isolated holder.
DSC_3067
Conclusion
The meter measures nicely, but the user interface is not completely logical, sometimes a specific function can be a bit hard to locate.
The computer interface is lagging documentation and software, I got the documentation from Banggood and the last bit can be solved nicely with my software.
Generally it works fine as a low end bench meter and I prefer it over the bench meters that are basically a handheld meter in a large enclose with a power supply.
Notes
Download TestController from here
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Test/review of DMM Aneng AN82

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DMM Aneng AN82
DSC_2828
Another Aneng meter, this time without a range switch, but with buttons.
DSC_2822DSC_2823DSC_2824DSC_2825
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I got the meter in a unbranded brown cardboard box with a drawing of the meter.
DSC_2827
It included the DMM, a pair of probes, a thermocoupler, spare fuses and a manual.
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The probes has removable tip covers, the tip and tip cover has the usual CAT markings.
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The shrouded plug is the slightly short variety.
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DSC_2835
The thermocoupler is the standard cheap type with banana plugs.
DSC_2840DSC_2846
The meter uses buttons instead of a range switch, this means it is always possible to select range with one hand (It may be necessary to hold some fingers behind the meter).
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DSC_2841
Display
DSC_2843
The above picture shows all the segments on the display, not all are used by this meter.
DSC_2845DSC_2851
Typical display during usage, in AC the small display will show the frequency or duty-cycle.
In temperature mode the large display shows Celsius and the small display shows Fahrenheit.
DSC_2847
The NCV is the usual bars and the buzzer and also includes a red led above the display.
Functions
DSC_2848
Buttons:


  • Power: Hold down to turn meter on/off. When a lead is connected to uA or A a short press will select between AC and DC
  • Range: First press will switch to manual ranging, press more to select range. Hold down to return to auto ranging.
  • mV C F: Select mVAC, mVDC, Celsius & Fahrenheit
  • H %: In AC modes this will move frequency to main display and show duty-cycle on small display. Hold down to turn flashlight on.
  • V NCV: Select VAC, VDC, NCV
  • Hold Rel: A short press will freeze the current reading, holding down will switch to relative readings.
  • ohm: Select Capacity, Diode, Continuity, ohm (Not the usually sequence).

Input
DSC_2849


  • 10A: High current. Manual specifies a 15 second max. but that is not marked on the meter.
  • uA: The uA ranges, the meter do not have a mA range.
  • COM: The common terminal for all ranges.
  • xxx: All other ranges.

Measurements

  • Volt and frequency

    • Meter defaults to AC voltage, moving between mV & V will change to AC.
    • At 100mVrms input frequency range is from 1.1Hz to 6MHz (Using mV range).
    • At 2Vrms input frequency range can be stretched to 10MHz (Using mV range).
    • 1 VAC is 5% down at 2kHz (RMS will not work at the frequency).
    • Frequency counter and duty cycle can only be selected in AC ranges.
    • Frequency input requires a zero crossing.
    • Duty cycle works from 2% to above 99% at 100kHz with 1Vpp, precision is within 0.9.
    • Input impedance is 10..11Mohm on VDC& VAC.
    • mV range is high impedance for DC up to around 1.5 volt where it drops to a few kOhm. AC is similar, but capped at 10Mohm

  • Current

    • Meter defaults to AC current, moving between uA & A will change to AC.
    • Meter will automatic change to current ranges
    • Meter slowly beeps when in current ranges.
    • Meter beeps fast when a current range is overloaded
    • Meter reading changes at 10A current, I saw a shift from 9.2A to 9.9A in about a minute (Manual specify maximum measuring time above 5A as 15 seconds, but it is not marked on the meter).
    • Frequency counter and duty cycle can only be selected in AC ranges.
    • uA current is protected by a 0.2A/250V 5×20mm fuse.
    • 20A current is protected by a 10A/250V 5×20mm fuse.

  • Ohm, Continuity, diode and capacitance

    • Ohm needs about 2.7s to measure 100ohm
    • Ohm is 1.1V open and 0.36mA shorted
    • Continuity is very fast (below 10ms).
    • Continuity beeps when resistance is below 50ohm.
    • Continuity is 1.1V open and 0.36mA shorted
    • Diode range uses 3.2V, max. display is 3.000V at 0.12mA, max. current is 1.5mA shorted
    • 10uF takes about 4.3 seconds to measure.
    • 70000uF takes about 9 seconds to measure.
    • Overload protection is rated at 250C AC/DC

  • Miscellaneous

    • Current consumption of meter is around 27mA depending on range (45mA with flashlight)
    • Meter works down to 2.6V where it turns off, battery symbol show at 2.8V.
    • Battery symbol will also show occasionally with a full battery.
    • Reading will start to change at about 5V, change is only a few % before the meter is off.
    • At low battery voltage (3V), meter may have problems with ranges, I have seen 816V on the meter with 10V input.
    • Backlight will start to fade at 5V, display is readable below 3V when ambient light is low.
    • Flashlight brightness follows backlight in voltage sensitivity.
    • The meter usual need a couple of display update to reach the final value.
    • Viewing angle is good, except from the top.
    • Display updates around 3 times/sec
    • Flashlight will automatic turn off in about 15 seconds.
    • Will automatic turn power off in about 15 minutes.
    • Standard probes cannot be pushed fully down.
    • Weight is 290g without accessories, but with rubber sleeve and batteries.
    • Size is 160 × 78 × 47mm with rubber sleeve.

  • Probes

    • Probe resistance 60mOhm for one.
    • Probe wire is soft and 91cm long.


1uF
A look at the capacitance measurement waveform.
DMMInputVoltageSweepmVDC
mVDC input resistance depends on input voltage. The mVAC is limited at 10Mohm
DMMschema
The meter cannot be used at 10A, the reading will drift.
The lowest uA range is 0.6uA (6 count) out at 1uA, rating says 3 count.
High DC voltage can block AC readings.
Tear down
DSC_3023
There where four screws holding the back cover on.
DSC_3024
DSC_3027
A fairly simple design with one relay instead of the range switch.
DSC_3028
Flashlight and NCV antenna poke out from the top.
DSC_3029
6 more screws to get the circuit board out
DSC_3030
DSC_3031
The 10A input has a large shunt (R8) and a long copper track from shunt to fuse, both are used as sense resistor (The copper track is the reason for the bad high current performance). The uA shunt is R35 with a diode across. Both current terminals are split types and this is used to sense when a plug is inserted, these goes to R37 & R25.
Voltage input splits into 3 paths: High impedance (R21-1 & R21-2: 2×5MOhm), medium impedance (R18 & R34: 2×499kOhm) and low impedance (PTC+Relay). The low impedance path is protected by a transistor pair (Q4 & Q5).
The chips are a reference (U5: LM385), a EEPROM (U2: T24C08). a LCD controller (HY2313B), a multimeter chip (U1), a unmarked chip (U4) and a voltage regulator (U3: 7130-1).
1
Closeup of uA shunt, it is two resistors.
DSC_3042
DSC_3032
DSC_3033DSC_3035
DSC_3034
DSC_3040
This side has the pads for all the switches and the indicator led for NCV.
DSC_3036
DSC_3037DSC_3039DSC_3041
DSC_3038
Conclusion
As usual the CAT rating is very doubtful, with 250VAC rated fuses.
Using buttons and a relay instead of a rotary switch works, but is not easier to use.
The reverse LCD means higher power consumption and with a very badly implemented battery empty detector and a fairly low capacity battery, it is not ideal.
The meter works fine enough.
Notes
The multimeter was supplied by Banggood for review.
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Test/review of DMM Aneng M10

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DMM Aneng M10
DSC_9080
This is a cheap DMM with all common function.
DSC_9077
I got it in a plastic envelope.
DSC_9078
The meter and all accessories was protected in a pouch.
DSC_9079
It included the DMM, a pair of probes and a manual.
DSC_9083
DSC_9084
The standard probes has removable tip covers.
DSC_9085
The shrouded plug is the slight short type.
DSC_9090DSC_9096
The meter is very light and smooth, i.e. it always requires some counter force when using the rotary switch.
DSC_9086
DSC_9087DSC_9088
DSC_9089
DSC_9091
Display
DSC_9092
The above picture shows all the segments on the display. Not all are used.
DSC_9093
Typical display during usage, it will show the number and what measurement is selected.
Functions
DSC_9094
Buttons:


  • Select: Select the ranges printed with yellow
  • Hold: Freeze the display, hold down to turn backlight on.

Rotary switch:

  • Off: Meter is turned off
  • V: Show voltage, using the yellow button will change between VDC and VAC
  • mV: Show millivolt, using the yellow button will cycle between VDC and VAC
  • ohm: Resistance, continuity, diode and capacitance
  • Hz: Frequency and duty cycle (Use SELECT to change).
  • A: High current DC and AC.
  • mA: Low current DC and AC, due to the PTC protection this range only works up to 200mA
  • Off: Meter is turned off

Input
DSC_9095


  • A: High current ranges
  • COM: The common terminal for all ranges.
  • xxx: All other ranges, including mA. The maximum of 200mA is marked here.

Measurements

  • Volt and frequency

    • 1 VAC is 5% down at 2.4kHz (RMS will not work at the frequency).
    • At 1Vrms input frequency range is from 1.1Hz to 6MHz
    • At 2Vrms input frequency range can be stretched to 14MHz
    • Input impedance is 10-11Mohm on DC and AC
    • mV range is 5Mohm up to about 2V then it drops to a few kOhm, depending on voltage.
    • Frequency counter and duty cycle works without zero crossing in Hz range.
    • Duty cycle works from 5% to above 95% at 100kHz with 4Vpp (1Vpp do not work), precision is within 0.7.
    • Hz input impedance is 1Mohm up to about 2V where it is clamped after the PTC

  • Current

    • uA range is protected with 200mA PTC.
    • 10A range is unfused.
    • 10A range has audible alarm at 20A

  • Ohm, continuity, diode and capacitance

    • Ohm needs about 2.7s to measure 100ohm
    • Ohm voltage is 1.05V open and 0.31mA shorted
    • Continuity is fast (About 15ms).
    • Continuity beeps when resistance is below 50ohm.
    • Continuity is 2.11V open and 0.31mA shorted
    • Diode voltage is 3.96V, display up to 3.3V with 0.34mA, maximum current is 2.0mA shorted
    • 10uF takes about 2.2 seconds to measure.
    • 11000uF takes about 9 seconds to measure.

  • Miscellaneous

    • Current consumption of meter is 1.1mA to 2.4mA depending on range (6mA with backlight)
    • Meter works down to 2.2V where it turns off, battery symbol show at 2.3V.
    • Readings are stable with changing battery voltage.
    • Backlight only works down to about 2.6V where it is fairly dim.
    • Viewing angle is good, except from the top.
    • Display updates around 3 times/sec
    • Backlight will automatic turn off in about 30 seconds.
    • Plugs with full size shroud cannot be fully seated.
    • Will automatic turn power off in about 16 minutes.
    • The meter usual will show the final value in one or two display updates.
    • Weight is 119g without accessories, but with batteries.
    • Size is 130 × 70 × 31mm

  • Probes

    • Probe resistance 52mOhm for one.
    • Probe wire is fairly soft and 67cm long.


1uF
A look at the capacitance measurement waveform while measuring 1uF.
DMMInputVoltageSweepmVDC
mVDC input resistance, mVAC is similar.
DMMInputVoltageSweepHz
Frequency input impedance at different voltages.
DMMschema
mA current input uses a 200mA PTC as protection, this makes it impossible to use the full range.
High DC voltage can block for AC readings.
Tear down
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I had to remove 3 screws to open the meter.
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I cannot see the 10A fuse that is specified on the front of the meter.
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6 more screws to get the circuit board out, the many screws is probably because the circuit board is fairly thin.
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The volt input terminal has 5 paths, two 10Mohm, a 1Mohm, a PTC fuse and a PTC.
The main 10Mohm path is always directly connected to the IC, the secondary 10Mphm path is directly connected to the chip in mV mode. The 1Mohm path is directly connected to the chip in ohm mode. The PTC path has a transistor pair after it in mV, ohm and Hz mode. The PTC fuse is connected to a 1ohm resistor in mA mode (The PTC itself has 2ohm). The 1 ohm current shut has two diodes across it.
There is no trimpots or EEPROM, this means the chip is one of the new type with EEPROM build in.
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A few more components are hidden below the battery box.
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No components on this side, only areas for the rotary switch, the buttons and the LCD display.
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Conclusion
The safety on this meter is fairly bad because the 10A range is unfused, but the front says it has a fuse. The input terminal is also missing transient protection.
This looks like a “upgrade” to the previous generation from Aneng, but with a cheaper design.
The meter works fine enough and has most common ranges, but it is a bit weak in current ranges.
Notes
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[Review] Nitecore NTP31 tactical pen

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Despite being one of the largest flashlight manufacturers, Nitecore`ve created (and will do) bunch different products for EDC / tactical enthusiasts. Usually, these are good-loooking , limited-edition and, therefore, quite expensive things.

For example, here are my reviews of the Nitecore NTK10 titanium utility knife, NTP30 \ Nitecore NTP40

Nitecore NTP31 official page

you can buy at :
ALIEXPRESS
BANGGOOD
AMAZON NTP31




PACKAGEANDAPPEARANCE

Decent-looking black velvety packaging with silvery embossed contour of pen and model name. Definetely ok to give such box away as a gift.

In addition to the pen itself, the kit includes only a yellow insert that tells about every significant detail.



The pen looks pretty good. Even if it does not have any really frank design pretentiousness such as cut holes of the same NTP48, I am very impressed with this accurate laconic design. A neat brushed aluminum body will match office suit perfectly.

The only part that will distinguish NTP31 from its “peaceful” office cousins ​​is the spring-loaded switch. Move it slightly – wide and short thungsten glass breaker spike comes out from the upper part.


Of course, there are no backlashes, gaps or any other manufacturing and assembly defects at all. All moving parts moves smoothly.


I did not hit glass with this spike (here I have no doubt that it will break through any regular glass), but it is easy to drive it into the wood. And into flesh, of course, when it is about adding some arguments to your “There is no XHP90 LED!” bar brawl.

The grip is quite comfortable. Ultimately, this is a classic-sized pen, so it is quite comfortable to hold it with either a direct or reverse grip. In the latter case, the handle does not slip into the palm of the hand due to the clip and the protruding spike shift lever. Although, it seems to me that the larger NTP10 would be better for such a grip (and, in fairness, worse for writing).


Pen can be disassembled without any tricks. A writing Schneider unit is installed inside.


I write by hand REALLY rarely. And such situations, as a rule, boil down to the fact that I fill my data into the form to pick up the parcel with one more reivew flashlight.

And, frankly, what is written there looks disgusting. But not only due to poor handwriting and lack of practice, but due to the fact that pens with wide marks and monstrous backlash of writing units simply do not allow writing legibly. Every time in such cases I think something like “but if I had a good pen, there would not be this crap here.”

And, believe me, even the handwriting changes with a good pen. So , this part of review of Nitecore NTP31 is devoted to how this tactical pen writes. And it writes, no surprise, wonderfully. The move is easy, smooth.

What to hide, the merit of Nitecore is only in the fact they perfectly, without any slightest gap, cut hole for writing unit. It fits perfectly in diameter. Schneider does the rest.

The obvious fact is that it’s easy to work with a good tool. Whatever it is: a screwdriver, a knife, a flashlight (by the way, here is my guide to choosing flashlights) or a pen – if the thing is done well, then it is a pleasure to work with it. So is with Nitecore NTP31. It fits comfortably in the hand and simply glides on the paper. If I could draw not at the level “It seems a pterodactyl … or maybe a cockroach, you can’t tell right away”, then I would definitely illustrate the review of Nitecore NTP31 with some drawing made with this pen.
But, alas, my abilities are enough just to leave this photo here.

OVERALLIMPRESSIONS

Nitecore don’t always make flashlights that leave me an unconditionally positive impression. But all the models from NTP line, that i had chance to test, did not have any functional and design flaws. They looked great, did not have any, even minimal assembly defects, did what they were intended for with a bang. if Nitecore NTP31 stands out with something here , then only with the price. In better way, i mean. Due to the fact that NTP31 is not made of titanium, the price tag is, albeit not small, but is frankly affordable and accessible not only to collectors.

The final verdict is simple. It is nice, external and functional, comfortable pen, which you will not be ashamed to give as a gift or use yourself. For a simple office worker / student / official, such a pen may not be of interest. But this pen will certainly delight any fan of all sorts of EDC and tactical stuff.

Multimeter guide

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Multimeter guide
DSC_4898
This guide is a simple (but long) guide for many details on multimeters, it do not tell how to make measurements, but explains about the different function on the multimeter. This guide has lot of pictures, each showing a small part of a multimeter to illustrate the functions and differences between meters. Most of the article is about measurement function, but at the end I will also look at a few physical aspects on the meter.
This guide can be very useful to make a list of functions you want in your next multimeter.
Contents
    Minimum, maximum and average of a value
    Peak or fast minimum, maximum
    Freezing the display
    Manual selecting range
    Selecting function
    Background light and flashlight
    Frequency and duty cycle
    Relative measurements
    Auto power off, can it be disabled?
    Dual or triple display
    Bargraph, sometimes a fast estimate of value
    Voltage measurement
    Current measurement
    Ohm, continuity, diode and capacity measurement
    Temperature measurement
    Non contact voltage or electric field detection
    Low-Z, getting rid of ghost voltages
    Low pass filter for variable frequency drives
    Turning the meter on or off
    Input terminals
    Tilting bale or kickstand
    Batteries and fuses
    Probe holders, need an extra hand
    Hanger


Minimum, maximum and average of a value
DSC_4900minmaxDSC_4902minmaxDSC_4903minmaxDSC_4904minmaxDSC_4905minmaxDSC_4906minmax
Many multimeters have a function to record minimum and maximum value, it is fairly slow (0.1 to 1 second), this is necessary to work for AC and not record random noise pulses. This function will usual work on most ranges on the multimeter, except capacity.
Depending on meter is may be possible to show actual value while recording minimum and maximum. Some of the better meters will also calculate a average while recording minimum and maximum. Meters with dual or triple display may use the extra display(s) for some of this.
To activate the function press the button, more presses on the button will change between minimum/maximum/average/actual depending on the meter. To end recording hold down the button. This function will nearly always disable auto ranging, i.e. remember to manually select the correct range before starting min/max collection.
Most brands agree on calling this function something with min/max or max/min, but Brymen desided to call it REC
DSC_4911minmaxDSC_4912minmax As long as MAXMINAVG is displayed, the display will show the actual value. When only one of the indicators is displayed, it is that value.
DSC_4913minmaxDSC_4922minmax Other meters do also use that notation.
DSC_4919minmax This meter is using the secondary display to show minimum and maximum values.
Peak or fast minimum, maximum
DSC_4908peakDSC_4918peakDSC_4921peakDSC_4925peakDSC_4917peak
This function can record fast transient, like current while a capacitor charges up (If it is supported in current ranges). It often need around 1ms (0.001s) pulse to record, but it varies with meter. This is fast enough to record maximum and minimum in a mains power sinewave. The function may only be supported in AC modes, but that is no problem because it usual records both maximum and minimum (I have seen exceptions to this). This function will nearly always disable auto ranging, i.e. remember to manually select the correct range.
This function can not replace a min/max, the fast capture means it is much more susceptible to noise and transients.
DSC_4935peak A PEAK label is added to the display when recording peak values.
DSC_4951peak This meter do not have a special peak indicator but uses the Hold indicator together with min/max.
DSC_4952peak Here a P is added before the min/max labels and the value is shown on the secondary display.
DSC_4953peak Brymen uses CREST instead of peak and add a C to min/max.
Freezing the display
DSC_4900holdDSC_4902holdDSC_4903holdDSC_4904holdDSC_4907hold
This function freezes the the display, this can be used to move the meter to a better place for reading the value or writing the value down. Just about any meter has this not very useful function.
One press will freeze the display, next press will resume updating again.
DSC_4920hold
Some meters has a auto-hold or touch-hold or something like that, it will freeze the display when measuring a stable value. This makes it possible to concentrate on the probe and when the meter beeps, remove the probes and read the meter. No button presses is required when doing this.
DSC_4955holdDSC_4956holdDSC_4958hold Usual one of these 3 indicators are used to show that the display is frozen.
Manual selecting range
DSC_4900rangeDSC_4902rangeDSC_4905range
On many auto-ranging multimeters it is also possible to manually select range, sometimes it is even required for a specific ranges (Like mV AC).
MIN/MAX, PEAK and REL will usual select manual ranging, but not on all multimeters. When canceling the function the meter will usual return to automatic ranging again.
Press the button once to lock the current range, press again to step through the different ranges, actual range can usual be seen on the point. Hold the button down to get back to auto-ranging.
This is sometimes used with varing values to avoid the meter changes range all the time. If a lot of resistors or capacitors with about same value has to be checked, manually selecting range will make the meter faster.
DSC_4911autoDSC_4914autoDSC_4915auto Usual there is a AUTO text somewhere on the display when using automatic ranging.
DSC_4916autoDSC_4919auto The MANUAL text is not always used.
Selecting function
DSC_4900selectDSC_4902selectDSC_4903selectDSC_4904selectDSC_4907selectDSC_4933select
DSC_5036DSC_5037
On most multimeters there are more than one function for each rotary switch position, this button is used to select between them or at least some of them.
The color coding of the button often match the some color coding for the markings around the rotary switch.
Hz and duty cycle is sometimes select with this button sometimes with a Hz button.
In this document I will call the button SELECT.
DSC_4900select1 When the blue switch is pressed the blue function is selected.
DSC_4902select1DSC_4902select2 Here it is yellow and there are arrows to help with the sequence.
DSC_4903select1DSC_4903select2 Not everybody believes in arrows. This meters starts in AC mode, the = is orange, i.e. SEL must be pressed to select it.
DSC_4904select1DSC_4904select2 Here it is not possible to see what initial selection is.
DSC_4907select1DSC_4907select2 Here it is not even possible to see what the SELECT button do (Southwire had to be different).
Each press will move to the next function for that rotary switch position, usual moving the rotary switch or turning the meter off will reset to the initial function again (Brymen and a few other remembers last selection).
Background light and flashlight
DSC_4902lightDSC_4904lightDSC_4907light
Many multimeters have a light that can illuminate the display, sadly it is often implemented in a way that makes it very awkward to use. On many of the cheaper multimeter it is only on for 15 seconds, then it turns off automatically and it requires a few seconds to turn it on. A few meters uses a light sensor to turn the background light on when it is dark.
The first light button requires a single press to turn the light on, the two next must be held down.
DSC_4900light The background light on this multimeter works different: usual the background will turn on due to a light sensor near the display, i.e. when it is dark around the display the background light turns on. The button disables this function and the background light will stay off, until the meter has been turned off.
DSC_4900flightDSC_4907flight
Some lights has a build in flashlight, that may be able to illuminate the place you are measuring (May require an extra person to hold the meter). This flashlight either has its own button or it turns on together with the backlight.
DSC_5066DSC_5067
DSC_5068DSC_5069
Flashlight placement is either top or back of the multimeter.
Frequency and duty cycle
DSC_4900hzDSC_4902hzDSC_4906hz
The SELECT button may select this, but often an extra button is used for selecing frequency and duty cycle measurements.
It varies where this button can be used, but it is in one or more of these ranges:


  • V AC – This is nearly always supported.
  • V DC
  • mV AC – If the meter is missing a Hz mode, this is usual the range with support for the highest frequencies.
  • mV DC
  • Hz – In the Hz mode it is often the Hz button that select duty cycle, not the SELECT button.
  • uA AC
  • uA DC
  • mA AC
  • mA DC
  • A AC
  • A DC

The meter may or may not support showing frequency for DC pulses (i.e. pulses that do not cross the zero line) and this may not be releated to support for frequency in DC ranges. Adding a capacitor in series with the multimeter or connecting minus on the multimeter to a voltage a bit above ground will make it possible to handle this and measure duty cycle at drive signal levels (0-3V, 0-5V, 0-12V etc.).
Pressing the button will select Hz, next press duty cycle (Not all meters have duty cycle) and third press back to the main function again.
The Hz selection on the rotary switch will usually be designed for low voltage and often support fairly high frequencies (i.e. MHz). The input impedance will often drop to low kOhm above a few volts.
Relative measurements
DSC_4900relDSC_4902relDSC_4905relDSC_4917rel
This is a very common function, it is used to “null” out a value and show measurement relative to that. Values to null can be the ohm with shorted probes, but it could also be a unloaded voltage, then the meter will only show the voltage drop when load is applied.
Meters with dual display may show the stored value or the full measured value on one of the displays.
This function will often change to manual ranging on the meter.
Auto power off, can it be disabled?
DSC_4909apoDSC_4910apoDSC_4914apoDSC_4924apo
Nearly all meters will automatic turn power off after some time, sometimes they are smart and disables it when measuring a value or when running max/min function.
If the meter shows that auto power off is active, it may have a function to disable it. This is usual done by holding one of the buttons down while the meter is turned on (The button must be held down a few seconds). If the symbol is not shown, then the function is disabled.
Dual or triple display
DSC_4938dual
Some meters can show more than one value at a time. On some meters you have to use the SELECT or a special DUAL button to select reading for the secondary display, but in many cases it is automatic.
DSC_4934dual This is the simple dual display, it can only show frequency in AC mode. Some meters only support this!
DSC_4928dual This meter can also show voltage and dB
DSC_4926dual Here is both DC and AC voltage shown at the same time.
DSC_4930dual Voltage AC and AC+DC, i.e. sqrt(sqr(AC)+sqr(DC))
DSC_4931dual This triple display is not used for the normal measurements, the two top numbers are always %RH and temperature.
DSC_4919dual Using the meter in min/max mode is a nice feature, but you have to live with the smaller digits in the secondary display.
DSC_4936dual This is a advanced multimeter with triple display, here used to measure power while showing both voltage and current.
DSC_4937dual With min/max it will show the stored value, together with the time. Here the maximum value was a overload.
Bargraph, sometimes a fast estimate of value
Meters may have a line at the bottom that shows the value, on better meters this line will update very fast. Some meters cheats with the bargraph and grouped segments, i.e. it looks like it has many segments, but they turned on/off in groups reducing the real resolution.
DSC_4939bar
DSC_4940bar This bargraph has many segments, i.e. better precision, but it is very close to the bottom of the display, i.e. difficult to see from a low angle.
DSC_4943bar
DSC_4944bar I am measuring 3V, but the bargraph shows up to 30, this bargraph do not adjust the scale (This is very common).
Voltage measurement
Voltage measurement can cover from one to four or more position on the range switch, it includes the normal voltage measurement, but also some special functions.

  • V DC – DC voltage up to maximum voltage supported by the meter, that is usual from 600V to 1000V
  • V AC – AC voltage up to maximum voltage supported by the meter, that is usual from 600V to 1000V. This may be lower than DC voltage, due to peak voltage being 1.4 times higher than display reading.
  • V AC VFD/LowZ – AC voltage with some special function activated, see below.
  • mV DC – DC voltage below 1 volt, sometimes this is a separate range, sometimes it is part of the V DC range.
  • mV AC – AC voltage below 1 volt, sometimes this is a separate range, sometimes it is part of the V DC range. When part of V AC it may require manual range selection to select it.

In addition to the standard voltage, it might be possible to select some extra function with SELECT or Hz buttons.

  • AC+DC – Combined rms voltage for AC and DC
  • Frequency – Frequency and duty cycle
  • Low pass filter (LPF) – Low pass filter, used on variable frequency drives (VFD’s) to remove high frequencies.
  • Temperature – A thermocoupler is very low voltage and the selection may be placed on the mV DC range.

DSC_4959V This meter have four voltage selections, each with some extra options.
DSC_4961V Here is only DC/AC and a frequency selection for AC.
DSC_4962V This meter has V and mV, AC/DC is done with SELECT
DSC_4964V 3 selections is fairly normal, but here mV is missing AC
DSC_4966V Only one selection for everything, use SELECT to change between AC/DC, it may require manual ranging RANGE to select mV, if the meter supports it. This meter starts in AC (AC symbol is white, DC symbol is orange).
DSC_4967V 3 selections with both AC and DC in the mV range. The temperature selection is also in the mV DC range. Use SELECT to select between AC/DC and temperature in mV. The Hz button is used for frequency. Frequency is only supported for AC.
DSC_4968V Again 3 selection, this time the mV input is also used for frequency and duty cycle, because it often has the highest bandwidth. Use SELECT to select between AC/DC in mV. The Hz button is used for frequency.
DSC_4969V A standard 3 selection meter, use SELECT to select between AC/DC in mV.
DSC_4971V The standard 3 selection meter, this meter do not have a Hz button and all selection are done with SELECT (That is yellow and unmarked).
Current measurement
A good multimeter has 6 AC/DC current ranges, two uA, two mA and two A. This usual requires two or 3 positions on the range switch (mA uA requires a switch, A uses another terminal and do not need a extra switch position). Good meters will also have some way to warn the users if they select voltage with probes connected to some current range, to avoid a blown fuse.
Just because the meter has a A on the range switch do not means it has two A ranges, some meters only has the 10A/20A range, not the xA range.
DSC_4961A The typically 3 positions, use SELECT to change between AC/DC.
DSC_4964A Again 3 positions, use SELECT to change between AC/DC.
DSC_4972A This meter do not have the two uA ranges, use SELECT to change between AC/DC and frequency (This meter do not have a Hz button).
DSC_4973A On this meter uA and mA is on the same position, this must mean it has electronic selection between them (Not very common). Use SELECT to change between AC/DC.
DSC_4974A mA and A is combined and the meter uses the input terminal to select the correct range. Use SELECT to change between AC/DC, frequency and percent of 4-20mA (Standard for industrial sensors).
DSC_4975A This meter is missing the mA range.
DSC_4977A A standard 3 selection meter, the 10A marking probably means it is missing the low A range.
DSC_4978A A one selection meter, this does not mean it is missing uA and mA, this meter can electronically select from uA over mA to 10A.


Lets also take a look at the input terminals for current. Usual there is on for A and one for uA and mA, but a few meters move the uA and mA to the voltage input, this can be problematic due to the increased risk of measuring volt on a current range.
DSC_4980A A classical current input layout with one A socket and one uA mA socket.
DSC_4982A The terminals are not always on a line, but it is the standard layout.
DSC_4983A Even in a square.
DSC_4985A In a row and this meter can warn about probes in the wrong terminals.
DSC_4981A Here is a more problematic layout, uA and mA is on the volt input, this increases the risk of blowing a fuse.
DSC_4976A On this meter uA is on the volt input and has electronic protection, i.e. no blow fuse if mains voltage is connected to the uA range.
DSC_4984A On this meter it is not even possible to have a probe in the A input when selecting a voltage range. The same terminal is used for uA, mA and A (This meter uses electronic selection).
Ohm, continuity, diode and capacity measurement
These four function has one thing in common: The meter must supply some current to do the measurement.
This can be up to about 3V and 2mA, but will often be considerable lower, depending on function. Bench meters may use up to 10V and a single multimeter has a 15V diode mode.

  • Ohm – Measuring resistance, lowest range may have a resolution from 1ohm down to 0.001ohm (1mOhm), depending on meter, highest range usual goes into the Megaohm, sometimes up to more than 50Mohm. A few meters support up to Gohm, but that is usual measured as ns (nano siemens: 1000000000/ohm).
  • Continuity – Audible resistance check, this range uses one of the low ohm ranges (Not always the lowest and test current/voltage may be slightly different) and will sound a buzzer when the resistance is low (Often below 50ohm, but varies with meter and may even be selectable). In addition to the buzzer some meters may also flash a light when continuity is detected.
    This is useful to trace wires, because you do not have to check the display, but can use the sound and a good continuity mode is very fast. This means you can pull the probe across a couple of connection and the beep will sound when you hit one with a matching connection.
  • Diode – Test forward voltage of a diode, some meters uses up to 3 volt and can test white leds, others only use 1 volt and cannot test any leds only regular diodes. If working with white leds a meter that can show 3V in diode mode is very useful.
  • Capacity – Measure capacitors, but the low and high end varies significantly depending on meter.


  • ohm DSC_4989ohmDSC_4994ohmDSC_4995ohm
    The nS is a special ohm mode that measures 1000000000/ohm and can be used for very high resistance.
  • Continuity DSC_4986ohmDSC_4990ohm
  • Diode DSC_4988ohmDSC_4991ohmDSC_4992ohm
    It looks like somebody forgot the diode symbol for the second one.
  • Capacity DSC_4987ohmDSC_4993ohm
    It will be nano (n), micro (u) and sometimes milli (m) farad that is shown as unit.



DSC_4959ohm This meter uses 3 selections and can obvious disable current generation electronically and use the ranges for other purpose also.
DSC_4961ohm Here all the ranges are collection in one position and SELECT must be used to select the desired one.
DSC_4962ohm Again 3 selection, but no alternate functions.
DSC_4964ohm Two selections.
DSC_4966ohm Two selections.
DSC_4967ohm One selection.
DSC_4968ohm Two selections.
DSC_4969ohm Two selection, this time with a nicely marked sequency for ohm->continuity->diode.
DSC_4971ohm Two selection.
Temperature measurement
DSC_5006DSC_5008DSC_5010DSC_5012DSC_5014DSC_5016
Many multimeters can use an external temperature sensor called a thermocoupler. This is a very simple temperature sensor that can cover a wide temperature range, but has a fairly low signal level.
A few meters can handle two thermocouplers at the same time and may be able to show the difference between them, this can be very useful when working with ventilations and airconditions systems.
The thermocoupler is fairly linear for temperature above about -40°C, for this reason many meter either has a lower limit around this or shows large errors at lower temperatures. There is also meters that has compensation and will show correct at lower temperatures.
DSC_5007 Usual a single thermocoupler is connected to the volt input terminal.
DSC_5013 Volt input
DSC_5015 And volt input.
DSC_5017 But somebody always has to be different, here it is the mA input.
DSC_5011 With two sensors it is the volt and mA input, because they are both handled by the range switch.
DSC_5009 To get four terminals, the A input is basically connected to COM at low currents (0.01ohm resistor and fuse) and can also be used for a second thermocoupler ground.
Non contact voltage or electric field detection
DSC_5020DSC_5023DSC_5018DSC_5019DSC_5026
This function can be used to check for mains voltage without using probes, just by holding the meter near to the wires, at least in theory. The sensitivity depends on how you hold the meter and a wet surface or wire will block for this function.
Often both buzzer and a led will be used to notify about a electric field in addition to the display.
The function can be useful for checking what wire is live or in some cases tracking a live wire, just never assume that everything is safe, just because the NCV do not show anything.
The function is usual called NCV and shown as EF on the display, but as can be seen above the selector can also be named EF or even Vsense.
DSC_5021 Many meters use the letters EF (Electric Field) in the display when range is select and no field is detected.
DSC_5022 Indication is usually with 1 to 4 bars on the display, depending on the strength of the electric field.
DSC_5028 This meter uses LoSE for low sensitivity and shows the detected field strength on the bargraph.
DSC_5029 A press on the RANGE button and the text is HiSE for High sensitivity.
Low-Z, getting rid of ghost voltages
DSC_4996DSC_5000DSC_5003DSC_5004DSC_5005
This function is mostly for mains work. Due to the high input impedance (10Mohm) of multimeters two mains wires in a cable or in a pipe will both show voltage when one has voltage and the other is unconnected. This is because there is some capacity between the wires and a small current will leak. Using the Low-Z mode on a meter will put enough load on the wire to show these leaks as safe voltages, but any real voltage (I.e. with enough current to drive loads) will still be measureable.
This function will usual switch the meter to the highest voltage range and sometimes to AC mode. It is often implemented as a PTC, that may be down to about 2kOhm when cold and will increase to maybe 100kOhm very fast when mains voltage is applied. This function may not work with low voltages.
The 400kOhm is slightly different, it simply connect a resistor across the voltage input when held down and do not care about what range is selected.
Most of the time the display will be in V AC mode, but here are a few exceptions:
DSC_5001 This meter will automatically detect AC/DC voltage.
DSC_5002 Another Low-Z mode that will handle both AC and DC.
Low pass filter for variable frequency drives
DSC_5030DSC_5031DSC_5034DSC_5038
When measuring on motor drives, also called variable frequency drives (VFD) the voltage will contain many harmonic frequencies. To avoid they skew the measurement some meters has a function to filter higher frequencies out. This is usual only required on high end meters, other meters do not have enough bandwidth in the first place, i.e. there is a low pass filter always active.
The function is usual activated with the SELECT button and will show a small icon in the display:
DSC_5032DSC_5033DSC_5035DSC_5039
Turning the meter on or off
All meters needs a power switch, usual it is on the range switch, but a few meters use a button, usual an electronic switch. Neither soft buttons or auto power off will usual not turn the meter fully off, but the current may be negligible.
DSC_5108DSC_5109DSC_5110
The most common off location is with the rotary switch all the way to the left.
DSC_5107DSC_5103
If the meters has a Low-Z mode it will often be placed below the off position, this makes it fast to select this position when turning the meter on.
DSC_5106
Some meters has a off at both ends of the range switch, this can reduce the wear on the range switch if the meter is mostly used for current.
DSC_5104DSC_5112
Another way to do that is to place off at the center of the range switch. This will also mean less turning of the switch to select range.
DSC_5105DSC_5111
A few meters use a button to turn on off, for better meters it is a electronic switch.
Input terminals
DSC_5041DSC_5040
Usual multimeters have the terminals placed in a standard way, like shown above, but there are exceptions.
DSC_5042DSC_5043
They do not need to be on a line.
DSC_5046
Some multimeters can electronically switch current ranges from uA to A and only need one current terminal. The voltage and current inputs are also swapped on this meter.
DSC_5044DSC_5045
Then there are meters with less current ranges.
DSC_5047
Here the common and voltage input are swapped and the capacity terminals are mA and V input.
DSC_5048
This looks standard, but the distance between COM and voltage input is not 19mm, but smaller. This means modules to plug into multimeters will not fit.
DSC_5051
There is also a point about how well standard probes fits into the terminals. The above picture shows a fully inserted probe.
DSC_5050
On this small multimeter the sockets are not deep enough to fully insert the standard probe.
The probes supplied with the meter will go fully into the socket.
DSC_5052
On this multimeter there is some probe detection that prevents fully inserting the standard probe.
The probes supplied with the meter will go fully into the socket.
Tilting bale or kickstand
DSC_5054DSC_5070DSC_5072
Sometimes it is nice to get a bit of angle on the multimeter, instead of having it lying flat.
DSC_5053
Most meters have a tilting bale or kickstand on the back, this one with rubber tips, that makes the meter more stable when using it.
DSC_5055DSC_5056DSC_5057
Some meters have more positions for the kickstand, making it possible to select the best angle or even use it to hang the meter somewhere.
DSC_5058DSC_5059
Another way to make more angles possible.
DSC_5061
The kickstand can be part of the multimeter or part of the cover.
Batteries and fuses
DSC_5088DSC_5083
All multimeters needs batteries and most also needs fuses. The batteries are usual 9V, AA or AAA batteries, for very small meters coin or button cells may be used. A single 9V or from two to 6 AA/AAA batteries, battery lifetime is from below 100 hours to above 1000 hours depending on the meter and battery.
The fuses need for high current and voltage are HRC (High Rupture Capacity) fuses that can break many thousand ampere. These fuses are ceramic (or better) and is filled with sand. The large DMM44 fuse is of that type.
The glas fuse and small ceramic fuse can probably handle normal mains voltage after a breaker or fuse and are basically for hobby meters.
And then there are the fuses in between, ceramic and hopefully filled with sand.
It is always a good idea to check if the fuses are rated for at least the same voltage as the meter, they must be able to break the circuit if you put the probes in ampere and starts measuring volt. This is the worst case scenario and can be fatal if the fuse cannot break the current in a high current situation.
DSC_5087DSC_5086
A typical meter, one screw and there is battery access, but two more screws must be removed before there is access to the fuses.
DSC_5085DSC_5082
One more with this two level access.
DSC_5077
This one is smarter, here is two different lids, one for batteries and one for fuses.
DSC_5078DSC_5079
This meter is a bit difficult, before the battery can be replaced the cover must be removed and again the meter must be opened to replace fuses.
DSC_5080DSC_5081
Here the battery is easy to replace, but for fuses the rubber cover must be removed and the meter opened.
DSC_5073DSC_5076
Fluke is using a single screw that must only be turned half a turn with a coin and there is access to both batteries and fuses. This meter is a high end meter that uses a lot of power.
Probe holders, need an extra hand
Many multimeters have probe holders build into the body, they can be used when storing the meter in a toolbag, but also when using the meter.
DSC_5096
I have never found a good way to pack the wires.
DSC_5099DSC_5101
Need to hold two probes and a multimeter, easy with one of the probe holders.
DSC_5102
Sometimes you can be lucky and probe wire length match exactly with the probes in the holders.
DSC_5091
This meter is too short the sharp end of the probe is poking out.
DSC_5093DSC_5095
But the flashlight is very useful in dark places and aimed the same was as a probe in the holder.
Hanger
Many meters has a way to hang them, either from a hook/nail/screw or on some metal.
DSC_6477
DSC_6478
DSC_6479
DSC_6481
DSC_6480
A lot of meters has this kind of holes on the back, it somtimes be used to hand the meter on a hook/nail/screw, but it can also be used with a magnetic hanger.
DSC_6482
This strap is a magnetic hanger, at one end is a powerful magnet with plastic coating.
Sometimes meters will not fit a standard strap, but only a brand specific magnetic hanger.
DSC_6483
Here I have mounted it on a multimeter
DSC_6484DSC_6166
And the meter can hang on my fridge, metal shelves, electric distribution board in metal, machines. The other meter included the magnetic hanger.
I have also seen a few meters with a magnet build into the back of the meter.
Other articles about multimeters
Multimeter and component testing
Multimeter probes
Multimeter and voltage measurements
Multimeter and pulsed DC current (PWM)
Tolerance specifications for multimeters
Clamp meters magnetization, demagnetization and offset
Multimeters and current measurements
Multimeters and thermocouples
Multimeter design
Multimeter protection and safety
Multimeter reviews
Multimeter selection table

My website with reviews of many chargers and batteries (More than 1000): https://lygte-info.dk/

[Review] NITECORE NWE30 - Emergency electronic whistle and beacon

WUBEN Gecko E61 EDC Multi-functional Penlight

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The coolest EDC pen but MORE than just a pen.cool

✅2 colors optional: blue/black

✅3 levels of lighting mode: standard mode / red and blue warning light / breathing light

✅4 functional pen heads, arbitrarily switch to other pen heads

✅130 Lumens Micro-USB charging

✅270 degrees rotatable fun to swing out and back

✅Robust body construction, accessible objects breaker

✅Magnetic body, magnetic to any iron objects, for liberating your hands

For more information: https://www.wubenlight.com/products/wuben-e61-gecko-multi-functional-tac...

 

Flashlight Bag - Vanquest ftim 6x9 Gen 2 edc pouch

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I finished a small but fun project about a month ago or so. This is my flashlight bag which i use for work and general activities.

[Review] ANENG V05B Digital Multimeter /w bluetooth & data logging

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ANENG V05B Digital 6000 Counts Multimeter True RMS with Bluetooth and data logging function

Hi, I came across a new digital multimeter model on Aliexpress and thought I’d provide a brief review on here. ANENG has NOT provided the device for review, I bought this with my own money and all views are my own.
First of all, this is not going to be a HKJ style professional review, I have a lot of respect for the high quality reviews our members create and I am not able to create such content, yet! My technical equipment wouldn’t allow me to measure the details, but at least I can give you some experiences from using it within the last 48 hours – this multimeter seems great for our various hobbies.

Observations/features about this device:
- affordable (I paid only 13$ after coupons including tracked shipping via DHL however YMMV)
- decent quality craftsmanship, device is rubberized around the edges – won’t scratch easily
- comes with bluetooth functionality
- the free app is perfectly usable and has multiple ways of viewing the measurement
- it has data logging which provides a in-app chart & CSV file
- small/compact design and lightweight

This battery powered, auto-ranging multimeter should be ideal for a variety of hobbies like electronics, flashlight, driver development, raspberry pi, arduino, PCB development, R/C, and more.


Buttons
ON/BT – long press for on/off of the multimeter, short press for enabling/disabling of bluetooth
SEL/NCV – short press for mode selection, keep button pressed for NCV measurement
H/ZERO/light – short press for Hold/zero, long press for display light and flashlight functionality
Please note that the display and flashlight remains illuminated until you switch it off
There is a REDLED which indicates NCV measurement and continuity. Continuity measurements also have a sound.

Multimeter functions, display flow

It even has a flashlight

These are the OEM listed technical specifications:

Display segments

View of the back side

Bluetooth disconnects when weaker AAA batteries are used, but the eneloops I have in them work great.

View of the built-in stand

View of NCV sensor

App flow

Charting feature within the app

(on tested Android devices a standard CVS file is stored locally that can be exported to Excel or Numbers)

I selected the minimal version at checkout which comes with probes and a temperature sensor
Probes are 12cm long and the cables are approximately 64cm long, the temperature sensor works as expected

Bluetooth connectivity, app, and data logging
- Device connects easily with a mobile phone that has the app installed
- App appears crude, but has all the functionality (especially compared to other DMM apps out there)
- Mobile app has multiple views you can select during measurement (double tap)
- Standard .cvs file will be stored with user-defined filename and can be exported
- Remote measurement to other devices if account is registered through app (feature not tested)
- You can finally chart charging/discharging curves, store measurements, and share across forums and social media

Advantages:
- App, bluetooth and data logging works at a very affordable price point.
- Data logging feature provides CSV file for each measurement (tested on Android phones), which can then be imported to Excel or Numbers.
- Compact, modern design of the multimeter.
- App even allows remote management if you sign up for an account (I have not tested this feature).
- Very fast shipping through DHL, only took 9 days to my place.

Other comments
- According to other forums, this multimeter uses mini fuses. These are smaller fuses and not the “normal” size. I haven’t opened the multimeter yet but I have seen mini fuses on ANENGs before.

Disadvantages:
- 2xAAA batteries mean you may run out of battery power.
- Bluetooth feature keeps disconnecting when weak AAA batteries are used, make sure to use eneloops or similar.
- Flashlight is not really useful, but I am sure our members have another light source.
- Logging is only for one measurement at a time, i.e. you can’t log temperature and voltage at the same time.
- Auto-ranging feature can be a bit slow. On one occasion it took several seconds when I checked the voltage on Li-Ion cells and AA cells.

Conclusion
I honestly love this multimeter for what it is. It may not have the feature set of more expensive devices, but if you want a compact digital multimeter that comes with bluetooth, app support, data logging and includes a nice design – this ANENG multimeter is a great choice.

Just in case I forgot to mention something, these are the marketing images from ANENG:











Clicks on pictures will lead you to the ANENG store product

A look at high end multimeters

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I have written a article about high-end multimeters, it is a good starting point for people that want to get a very good multimeter, but they are not cheap (The cheapest one is probably a couple of 100 dollars)!

http://lygte-info.dk/info/DMMHigh-end%20UK.html

The meters included are: Benning MM12, Brymen 869s, Chauvin Arnoux CA 5293, EEVBlog 121GW, Fluke 87V Max, Fluke 289, Gossen MetraWatt MetraHit Energy, Gossen MetraWatt MetraHit PM Prime, Hioki DT4282, Keysight U1252B, Keysight U1272A, Keysight U1282A, Kyoritsu KEW1062, Metrix MTX3291, Sanwa PC7000, UNI-T UT181A

I have all the meters and may be able to answer questions about them.

My website with reviews of many chargers and batteries (More than 1000): https://lygte-info.dk/


Astrolux TP01 Review

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Astrolux TP-01 Review

I got a cool pen!

For starters: It's a pen. It writes, in ink. The cartridge itself isn't anything to write home about, but that's not why we're here. It is replaceable with a common cartridge size, if that's your thing. I'm eyeing one with purple ink, myself.

The pen claims to be machined in raw titanium. I don't have the equipment to actually test that, but I'm at least sure it's not aluminum. It's also not steel, although I was surprised to find the pen somewhat weakly attracted to a magnet. I set about disassembling it (all the tools were included), and found that the ink cartridge has a steel sleeve. Without that (or the spring), the entirety of the pen body was not attracted to a magnet. I don't have any reason to think it's not titanium, and it has the right feel.

The overall feel of the pen is raw. When I'm holding it or writing with it (or fidgeting with the bolt-action mechanism), it feels like raw machined metal. This is not a finished feel, this is not a smooth or refined feeling for a pen. But it is kind of cool. It's nice that the clip is removable, and that they supply all the tools to disassemble the pen, as well as a spare of each of three screws (two for the clip, and one for the end of the pen which retains the ink cartridge) and even an extra spring. It can be fully dis- and re-assembled with ease. The only trick is to re-insert the "bolt" from the bolt-action with the shallow cutout facing away from the pen tip.

Let me be serious for a moment. You don't need this pen. I don't need this pen. It doesn't offer any real advantage over other available pens, and it even lacks some of the common additional features of tacticool pens (like a window-breaking point, because a pen needs that?). But it's cool, and it's made of nerd-metal. I will admit that it's likely to make me replace ink cartridges rather than entire pens, and I'll use it more than my other pens because it's cool. So maybe it has a tiny net impact on my plastic use/waste. And maybe the mechanism will be more reliable than other clicky pens I own. But I'll be honest, I can only remember buying one pack of pens in the last ten years, and that was nominally for use at university. My pens before that were provided by parents, and my pens after that have mostly been the left-behind pens of retail customers at a previous place of employment. I still have several Pilot G2s from that...

This pen writes worse than my Pilot G2s or my Uni-Ball Jetstreams. Although it bleeds less than either and can't be smudged like the G2, it's just an average ballpoint cartridge. It's also a bit short; it looks worse than it is, but it's around a half-inch shorter than most of my other pens sitting at my desk. 

Disclaimer: I don't do any affiliate stuff. I didn't receive any compensation for this review; I bought the pen because I wanted it. I will admit, I didn't pay full price, M4d M4x helped me out a bit.

Roaring Fire Picofire edc pouch

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Got this as a gift and love it and its small design. I have two lights in there, a nitecore tiki and a lumintop tool aaa ti with a nichia 219b emitter.

Leatherman Tool

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Made a video about some of my multitools I use. Im no tool expert so take what i say with a grain of salt.

Swiss Army Cyber Tool 34 LITE

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I was looking for a tool for my electronics kit and this seemed like a good option for my urban and tech needs.

Swiss Army Knives

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I figured since I posted about my leathermans here, maybe a discussion on swiss army knives could be fun. For reference I use both brands and enjoy them both as they compliment eachother as I point out in the video. Do you guys have any and do you use both?

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