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Test/review of DMM Owon B41T+

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DMM Owon B41T+

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Own has a couple of multimeters in this “41” series with some differences. The “B” models has Bluetooth, the “T” models has true RMS and the “+” model has memory for offline logging. I look at the model with Bluetooth, true RMS and offline logging.

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The meter arrived in a brown cardboard box with a minimum of text on it.

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Inside was a pouch with everything in it.

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The box/pouch included the meter, probes, alligator clips, a thermocoupler, transistor tester adapter, pouch, quick guide, specifications, QR code for link to app.

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Probes are marked 1000V 10A and the tip cover is marked CAT III, without the cover there is a CAT II marking.
The tip cover is screw on/off, the alligator clips are also screw on/off.

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The plugs are fully shroud, but a bit on the short side.

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The transistor tester, thermocoupler, capacitor adapter. This way the transistor tester is safe, but only thermocoupler and capacitor adapter is used on this meter.

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A cheap thermocoupler with banana plugs.

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I do not like the plastic for the battery lid, I have the feeling that it is a hard plastic that easily breaks.



Display

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The above picture shows all the segments on the display.

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Normal DC voltage with voltage and bargraph.



Functions

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Buttons:


  • Select: Select between DC and AC and modes in the ohm position.
  • Range: Switch to manual range and select range, hold down to activate automatic ranging again.
  • Hz/Duty: Select frequency and duty cycle in V and A modes.
  • Max/min: Capture maximum and minimum values, press to display one or the other, hold down to exit mode.
  • light: Press to freeze/unfreeze current reading, hold down to turn on background light,
  • rel: Press to use relative mode (REL), hold down to enable/disable Bluetooth.

REL and Max/min disables auto range.

Rotary switch:

  • Off: Meter is turned off.
  • V: Measure DC and AC voltage, DC includes a mV range, in AC it is possible to select frequency.
  • mV: Millivolt range, has two mV ranges for both DC and AC, in AC it is possible to select frequency.
  • ohm: Resistance, continuity and diode
  • Hz%: Frequency, this support up to 60MHz.
  • c: Capacitance
  • Temp: Temperature.
  • uA: The uA range.
  • mA: The mA range.
  • A: The A range.

There is no switch to activate logging, this must be done with the Bluetooth interface.



Input

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  • A: High current, maximum current is 20A
  • mAuA: The lower current ranges and input for thermocoupler
  • CON: The common terminal for all ranges.
  • xxx: All other ranges.




Measurements

  • Volt and frequency

    • Frequency input can handle a DC offset of +/-1.2V with 0.2Vrms input, but needs a few seconds to adjust.
    • At 100mVrms frequency input range is from 2.1Hz to 800kHz
    • At 1Vrms frequency input range is from 2.1Hz to 62MHz
    • At 100mVrms AC input frequency range is from 2.1Hz to 150kHz
    • Duty cycle works from 5% to 95% at 100kHz with 1Vpp, precision is within 6.0 (Due to the offset adjustment the readout takes some seconds to be stable)
    • Duty cycle works from 5% to 95% at 100kHz with 2Vpp, precision is within 4.0 (Due to the offset adjustment the readout takes some seconds to be stable).
    • 1 VAC is 5% up at 110kHz (RMS will not work at the frequency).
    • Max/min needs about 330ms to capture a voltage.
    • Input impedance is 10-11Mohm on DC and AC
    • mV has 10Mohm input impedance up to about 3V, then it drops to 200kOhm at 5 Volt and 2kOhm at 20 volt.
    • There is an audible warning when voltage is too high on any V range, but not on mV range.
    • Frequency input is 10Mohm up to 1 volt then it drops to 1kohm at 5 volt
    • Rated overload protection on V is 1000VDC / 750VAC
    • Rated overload protection on mV and Hz is 250VDC or equivalent AC

  • Current

    • Meter has audible alarm with too high current in uA, mA and A range
    • Overload protection in uA and mA: 1A/250V 5×20mm glass fuse
    • Overload protection in A: 20A/250V 5×20mm ceramic fuse
    • Measuring above 10A must only be performed for a short time.

  • Ohm, continuity, diode and capacitance

    • Ohm needs about 1.0s to measure 100ohm
    • Ohm is -0.39V open and -0.34mA shorted
    • Continuity is very fast (3ms).
    • Continuity beeps when resistance is below 30ohm
    • Continuity is -3.13V open and -1.8mA shorted
    • Diode range uses 2.8V, max. display is 1.9V at 0.64mA, max. current is 1.9mA shorted
    • 10uF takes about 0.8 second to measure.
    • 70000uF takes about 13 seconds to measure.
    • Rated overload protection is 250VDC or equivalent AC

  • Miscellaneous

    • Current consumption of meter is 3.5mA in Hz, 4.3mA in DC 5.4mA AC (16mA with backlight, 13.3mA with Bluetooth and 24mA with both).
    • Meter works down to 1.5V where it turns off, battery symbol show at 2.3V.
    • The meter reading is stable within a few count (About 10) down to the meter turns off.
    • Backlight fades with voltage and is very dim at 2.5V
    • Bluetooth works down to 1.6V
    • Bluetooth disconnects fast when outside range.
    • Local logging is done on the Bluetooth transceiver, this means it must be controlled from a phone.
    • The meter usual needs two updates before reading is correct.
    • Viewing angle is limited both from the top and the bottom.
    • Display updates around 2 times/sec.
    • Bargraph updates 30 times/sec
    • Backlight will turn off in 57 seconds
    • Will automatic turn power off in about 30 minutes
    • Standard probes cannot be fully inserted into sockets on meter, but make connection, banana plugs can be fully inserted.
    • Weight is 335g without accessories, but with batteries.
    • Size is 185 × 88 × 45mm.

  • Probes

    • Probe resistance 31mOhm for one.
    • Probe wire is soft and 87cm long.


1uF

A look at the capacitance measurement waveform, measuring 1uF.

DMMInputVoltageSweepHz

Frequency input resistance.

DMMInputVoltageSweepmVDC

Input impedance on mV range.

DMMschema

Battery time is without Bluetooth, with Bluetooth it is around 200 hours.



Software Android

The Bluetooth phone software must be downloaded from Owon site and requires access to phone information, contacts, location and storage. I disabled the phone and contact access and the application still works.

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The software I got was V1.2.9 and I downloaded the Bluetooth 4 version. The program is called “MultimeterBLE” on Android.

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The typical meter display, the blue fields will activate buttons on the meter (it is still possible to use the button on the meter).
The microphone will enable English voice annotations of the value, the language is not perfect but understandable. The menu besides the microphone is used for meters with internal logging.
The software will only work in landscape mode.

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Here max/min has been activates, it is shown, but could have been more obvious.

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The software can support more than one meter, I only had one meter and have not tried this function.

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The logging mode, it shows a curve and a table, this data is also collected when showing the other display.
The chart has some problems: It do not change scale between mV and V, i.e. 600mV is shown as 600 and 2V is shown as 2 on the chart, this can occur in the same chart! This means it may be necessary to use the RANGE switch to get consistent charts.
I did not find a way to stretch the chart or table to full screen width. The chart and table will not reset if the range switch is turned, it will just continue to add data.

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It is possible to zoom in/out on the curve, either with the buttons in the gray area or with two fingers.

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On this screen the menu has function to save the data and share the saved data. I shared it with an email program and received the email on my PC.

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The settings can be used to adjust the sample interval and to set a time limit on how long to record the data. The “Fill” option will add a blue shading below the curve.

data

The data is saved in a csv/TAB file using US format and without any headers, this means I cannot directly import it into Excel (I need to specify format each time).

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The offline record mode must be started from a phone, it cannot be started on the meter. When recording Bluetooth is disabled, but the Bluetooth symbol is used as record symbol on the meter.

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When the recording is finished Bluetooth can be enabled again on the meter and the phone can be connect for download.



Tear down

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Before I open the meter the batteries must be removed, to open the meter there is four small screws.

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I had to remove five screws before I could take the circuit board out.

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The current input uses four shunt resistors, for uA it is R43 (900ohm) with diodes in parallel and R42 (90ohm), for mA it is R39 (9ohm) with diodes in parallel and R40 (1ohm), this configuration gives a fairly high burden voltage, the protection is a 1A glass fuse, but it will not protect the R42 in the uA range and is fairly bad protection for R40. The voltage input only has PTC’s, not MOV’s this means high transient voltage may damage the meter.
The voltage input uses a “Black Box” resistor (R15) with capacitors (Include trim capacitors) for AC compensation. For ohm and capacity there is dual PTC’s and transistor pairs (RT4 with Q4 & Q5, RT1 with Q15 & Q16), mV has a single PTC and transistor pair (RT3 with Q1 & Q6) and HZ also has a single PTC and dual transistor pair (RT2 Q8, Q9 Q10, Q11). The TEMP input do not have a PTC but goes directly to a transistor (Q1 near the reference). There is a lot of trimpots for adjusting the meters and they are labelled with range (Note AC22V & AC2.2V is capacitors and for high frequency response).
The main multimeter IC (U12: ES51932: 22000 count DMM chip) is a single chip, but with external RMS converter (U10: AD8439: RMS converter). The Bluetooth interface is a module (U15/U1: CC2541) with its own programmable processor, this is also the secret behind the off-line data collection, it is handled by this module, not by the multimeter.
For the input, there is a OpAmp (U16: SGMOP17C) next to a reference (U14: LM385B: Reference 1.2V). The large collection of diodes (D2, D3, D4, D6, D7, D9, D24, D25, D26, D27, D28, D29) is probably encoding of the rotary switch for the multimeter chip.

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There is space for a diode bridge (D19..D23) to protect the uAmA shunt resistors, but it is not mounted, it would probably affect the ranges too much.

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The LCD display is mounted with four screws.

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There is hidden a couple of resistors, capacitors, diodes and a single transistor under the display.

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Conclusion

The CAT rating cannot be correct with 250V fuses.
The meter has a nice collection of ranges and good resolution, but the burden voltage is high, the high uA and mA is rather bad. The off-line logging must be controlled from a phone, it cannot be initiated on the meter.

Except for some current ranges it is a good multimeter.



Notes

How do I review a DMM
More DMM reviews
Multimeter design, this explains a lot more about DMM’s than my tear-downs

My website with reviews of many chargers and batteries (More than 1000): https://lygte-info.dk/


[Review] Pokka Pen

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I wouldn't normally post this here, but this is budget light forum, and this seems like a good budget alternative to the Fisher Bullet - so if you're a pen nut like me, give it a quick read!

The Product

The Pokka Pen is a small plastic pen designed to be affordable and pocket-able. It's available in a wide range of colors and patterns, but the 3 I have to look at today are yellow, blue, and orange. The cap of the Pokka Pen attaches to the tail end to form a full length pen when in use, for more comfortable writing. Pokka also sent along a pocket clip and a notebook to take a look at as part of the kit.


Spoiler

This pen is a great idea, and a great execution. I love how small and light it is when carrying, and the 'pop' the two parts make when you pull them apart is very satisfying. There's a bit of play between the two pieces, and the light weight of the pen isn't as nice when you're writing with it - but I really think that's fine. This isn't the tool I'd use to write a 3 hour exam, but it's definitely something I can (and do) keep in a pocket in case I need to take a quick note, sign a receipt, or lend it to a friend. The writing experience reflects that as well. This is a bog-standard ball point pen, akin to what you might find in a Bic. Even so, it writes just fine. It works when I expect it to on all sorts of paper, and it's not unpleasant at all.

It would be impossible to get through this article without talking about the Fisher Bullet, so I'll get that out of the way now. Yes, this cap back design is functionally similar. I'm aware of that, and I'm certain that the people at Pokka are too. The biggest differentiating factor is the price - the Bullet goes for around $20, depending on sales. While I certainly don't think $20 is unreasonable to spend on a pen, some people will - especially if you loose it. The pack of 3 I have to look at today goes for under $9. I find the weight and solid build of the Fisher makes it a bit more comfortable to write with. The Pokka pen's lighter weight makes it more comfortable and easy to forget about in a pocket. The Pokka also writes nicer, since the pressurized ink Fisher uses is notoriously viscous. Both are available in a wide variety of colors and styles, so pick whichever suits you best.

Physical Dimensions

The pen measures 11.5 mm at the widest point, and the grip is 7.5 mm. Closed, the length is 83 mm, and it extends to 137.5 (including the tip) in use.

For size comparison: Pokka pen closed with clip, Fisher Bullet, Pokka pen open, Nitecore NTP40Lumintop IYP365 Ti (not a pen).

Build

The pen is made up of two pieces - the grip, and the cap.

The cap is a simple injection molded tube, closed on one end. The brand is molded into the side, but it doesn't stick out very far and isn't noticeable at first glance. There are some small marks from the injection process - but again, you have to be looking to find them.

 

The grip has two o-rings at the top to lock the cap in place either closed, or open as a full length pen. There's a black cap on this end that doesn't seem to be removable. When the cap is installed it can move a tiny bit if pressure is applied, and this seems to vary a bit across the 3 pens I have. Could be due to variance in the O-rings or the bodies themselves. If you wanted to further customize your pen, I'm sure you could find other colors of these O-rings to add your own flair.

The cartridge is friction fit into the grip, and can be replaced with a pair of pliers. There's no play or wiggle at all here.

Ergonomics and Retention

When writing, the cap sits high on the tail to give an almost full length pen. This gives the pen a very natural feel, no different to what most people are used to using in an office.

 

Even with these features, I think this pen is best suited as a back up or for short notes - I certainly wouldn't plan on writing an essay with it. The cap on the back of the pen adds to the length, but the pen is still much lighter than I like and has a bit of play to it. The grip section is comfortable, but smooth.

For retention, the add-on pocket clip can be slid over any part of the cap, directed either way. The clip has a good shape, and keeps a solid grip on both the pen and your pocket. For me, the biggest advantage is that the clip stops the pen from rolling away when in use.

Writing and Refills

Here's a visual comparison to a few of my most used pens and inks. The Pokka refill flows smoothly and doesn't get gummy in my experience, but it obviously doesn't glide as well as a rollerball or the Quink.

Refills aren't any standard format, but the company sells them in black, red, and blue. There's also a Pokka pen available with Rite in the Rain branding that uses a Fisher refill I would imagine to write similar to the PR4, though those are currently unavailable. 

Notebook

Since Pokka also sent a little notebook, here's a few words on that. It's a standard Rite in the Rain book, with a black cover. I was surprised to find that the paper is much more natural feeling and nicer to write on than the Field Notes Explorer I usually use. I'm also a huge fan of the dot/line markings on these pages, and the two rulers on the back cover are a nice touch. Not much else I can say about it, but it's real nice. If you want a waterproof notebook, get one of these.

Summary

Pros:

  • Great compact form factor
  • Lots of colors to choose from
  • Lightweight and inexpensive

Cons:

  • Ergonomics aren't comfortable for extended writing
  • Some play between the cap and body of the pen

Notes and Links

This product was provided by the manufacturer. I was not paid to write this review, and have tried to be as unbiased as possible.

Manufacturer's product page (tracking link with coupon code)

Product listing on Amazon (affiliate link)

Find all my reviews of flashlights and more gear at www.bmengineer.com

Test/review of DMM Brymen BM829s

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DMM Brymen BM829s
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This is the fairly advanced Brymen meter with good precision and PC connection (Must be bought separately).
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The meter arrived in a cardboard box that is used for a couple of models, on the back is a table comparing them. This meter is the most fully featured, except it is missing off-line logging.
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The box included the meter, two probes, a thermocoupler (Meter supports two) and the manual (It can also be downloaded).
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Probes are branded with B.T.C. and has removable tip covers.
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The probe-tip has different configuration, one is rated for up to CAT IV 1000V like the meter.
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The plug is fully shrouded and standard probe plug size.
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A standard thermocoupler with a standard dual banana connector.
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The meter is heavy and the tilting bale can hold it while the range switch is used or the buttons is pressed.
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The PC connection is here with an optical link.
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The tilting bale can be moved a bit and then be used to hang the meter on.
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The rubber sleeve must be removed to replace the battery. There is a rubber seal around the battery cover.
Display
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The above picture shows all the segments on the display, not all are used.
There are two 4 digit display and a bargraph. In most modes the readings goes up to 6300, but a few support 9999.
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Normal AC voltage with voltage, frequency and bargraph.
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In DC volt it is possible to show both AC and DC volt, but the bargraph disappears.
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There is no diode symbol, instead the small display is used to write diode.
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The NCV or Electric field mode, it can show from 1 to 5 bars
Dual and single display functions (After / is small display):
VAC: VAC/Hz, dBm/Hz, Hz/VAC
VDC: VDC, VDC/VAC, DC+AC/VAC
mVDC: mVDC, mVDC/mVAC, mVDC+mVAC/mVAC, Hz, Duty Cycle
mVAC: mVAC/Hz, dBm/Hz, Hz/mVAC
Temp: T1, T2, T1/T2, T1-T2/T2 (Use RANGE to select)
uA, mA, A: ADC, ADC/AAC, ADC+AAC/AAC, AAC/Hz
Functions
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Buttons (Range selection and a few other are remembered):


  • Select (Yellow): Select between the different modes on each position of the range switch, hold down to activate background light. Meter will remember the selection and use it next time the range is selected.
  • Range: Switch to manual range and select range, hold down to activate automatic ranging again. In dB mode this button will select reference impedance from 20 different values, in temperature mode it will select different combinations of thermocouplers.
  • delta: Shows values relative to current value.
  • Hold: Freeze the display, press again to release. Hold down to select NCV or electric field mode, the range switch is ignored.
  • Crest: Peak mode, will record and show fast min/max. Use button to change between min/max/max-min. Hold down to end mode.
  • Rec: Minimum/maximum mode, will record min/max values. Use button to change between actual/max/min/max-min/average. Hold down to end mode.

Rotary switch:

  • Auto: Meter will automatic select between ohm, continuity, VAC, VDC with LowZ on voltage ranges.
  • Off: Meter is turned off.
  • VAC: Measure AC voltage, frequency and dB
  • VDC: Measure DC voltage, AC voltage and AC+DC voltage.
  • mVDC: Millivolt range, measure DC voltage, AC voltage, AC+DC voltage, frequency and duty cycle.
  • mVAC: Millivolt range, measure AC voltage, frequency and dB
  • ohm: Resistance and continuity, the nS makes it possible to measure very huge resistance
  • T1 T2: Measure temperature with one or two thermocouplers, can also show difference between them.
  • C: Capacitance and diode range.
    values.
  • A mA: This is either mA or A depending on where the probe is connected. It will measure DCA, ACA, ACA+DCA, frequency
  • uA: The uA range. It will measure DCA, ACA, ACA+DCA and frequency.

dB reference impedance: 4, 8, 16, 32, 50, 75, 93, 110, 125, 135, 150, 200, 250, 300, 500, 600, 800, 900, 1000, 1200
Input
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  • A: High current, maximum current is 10A, also ground for second thermocoupler.
  • mAuA: The lower current ranges and + input for the second thermocoupler.
  • CON: The common terminal for all ranges.
  • xxx: All other ranges.

Measurements

  • Volt and frequency

    • Frequency input (mVDC) has a trigger point around 1.2V
    • At 1Vrms frequency input (mVDC) range is from 2Hz to 180kHz
    • At 5Vrms frequency input (mVDC) range is from 2Hz to 3.3MHz
    • Frequency input (mVAC) requires a zero crossing
    • At 100mVrms input on mVAC range, frequency range is from 2Hz to 65kHz
    • Frequency input (VAC) do not require a zero crossing, it is AC coupled.
    • At 1Vrms input on VAC range, frequency range is from 2Hz to 29kHz
    • Duty cycle works from 5% to 99% at 100kHz with 4Vpp, precision is within 3.5
    • Duty cycle works from 1% to 99% at 10kHz with 4Vpp, precision is within 0.4
    • 1 VAC is 5% down at 7kHz (RMS will not work at the frequency).
    • 0.5 VAC in mVAC is 5% up at 16kHz (RMS will not work at the frequency).
    • Auto range works when doing min/max, peak and relative.
    • Auto input has just below 1V out to detect a resistor, it will switch to VDC at 1.2VDC input or VAC at 0.6VAC input.
    • Max/min (Rec) needs about 570ms to capture a voltage, it may use multiple captures to get the final value.
    • Peak (Creast) needs about 0.7ms to capture a DC voltage, it may use multiple captures to get the final value.
    • Input impedance is 10-11Mohm on DC
    • VAC input has a capacitor and is 10Mohm after that.
    • mV DC/AC has 10Mohm input impedance up to about 3.5V, then it drops to 20kohm at 10 volt and 4kOhm at 35 volt.
    • Frequency input is similar to mV
    • Rated overload protection on V ranges is 1050VDC/VAC and 12kV transient.
    • Rated overload protection is 600VDC/VAC and 12kV transient in mV range.

  • Current

    • Overload protection in uA and mA: 0.44A/1000V 10×38mm fuse
    • Overload protection in A: 11A/1000V 10×38mm fuse
    • There is an audible warning and display shows “InEr” when using non current ranges with a probe in mAuA or A input.

  • Ohm, continuity, diode and capacitance

    • Ohm needs about 1.9s to measure 100ohm
    • Ohm is 1.0V open and 0.17mA shorted
    • Continuity is very fast (Below 5ms).
    • Continuity beeps when resistance is below 220ohm
    • Continuity is 1.2V open and 0.17mA shorted
    • Conductivity (nS) is 1.2V open and 0.3uA shorted
    • In conductivity it is best to keep some distance to the meter.
    • Diode range uses 3.1V, max. display is 2.000V at 0.14mA, max. current is 0.38mA shorted
    • 10uF takes about 2.8 seconds to measure.
    • 11000uF takes about 9.5 seconds to measure, it shows a wrong value first.
    • Rated overload protection is 600VDC/VAC and 12kV transient.

  • Miscellaneous

    • Current consumption of meter is 4mA-5mA (35mA with backlight)
    • Meter works down to 4.0V where it says “InEr”, battery symbol show at 6.7V.
    • The meter reading is stable down to 5.6V, then it will show too high value (It was 36% to high at 4V).
    • Backlight is stable until meter reports “InEr”.
    • The meter sometimes need a couple of updates before the reading is fully correct.
    • Viewing angle is good
    • Display updates around 5 times/sec.
    • Bargraph updates 60 times/sec
    • Backlight will turn off in 30 seconds
    • Will automatic turn power off in about 30 minutes without any warning.
    • Standard probes fits perfectly into sockets on meter.
    • Weight is 630g without accessories, with sleeve and battery.
    • Size is 208 × 102 × 64mm.

  • Probes

    • Probe resistance 30mOhm for one.
    • Probe wire is soft and 100cm long.


1uF
A look at the capacitance measurement waveform.
DMMInputVoltageSweepHz
Frequency input resistance, this is similar to mV
DMMschema
Software
The software must be bought separately.
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The box only includes a cable and a CD. The CD contains software for many different meters and also files describing the data format (It is the display segments, not digits that is transmitted). The software can be downloaded directly from Brymen without any problems, this is what I did for this meter.
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The opto adapter has two leds and some mechanic to lock it securely in place.
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Here it is mounted on the meter.
1s2s
I downloaded the software from Brymen and it says it is a alpha version, the program inside the ZIP file has a file data from 2012.
3s
When started the program is a couple of windows, they can be opened and closed separately. The table and chart view can be resized.
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There is one more window available.
4s
Pressing the connect button shows one or two values from the meter, but there is no special support for min/max/peak functions, it will show the same value as the display, but no indicator.
5s
Starting record will update the chart and the table. The chart will only show the main value and the scale will depend on the currently selected range.
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It is possible to adjust the sample interval.
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And export the data.
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Here I did a chart where I only logged DC volt, the update is faster than above where I logged AC and DC volt.
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The standard chart window will only show a fixed amount of data, but when acquisition is stopped it is possible to show all sample points in on chart (Still only one value).
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Here the meter has to change between the two mV ranges while logging, it delays the data a bit, but the curve is scaled correctly.
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It is possible to play with design of the chart.
log
The saved data contains both values from the display and is in a US CSV format.
Tear down
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I had to unscrew four screws in addition to the battery cover to open the meter, they are captive and stays in the back.
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On this meter the front is removed, the range switch is connected with a metal pin.
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Fuse replacement requires to open the meter.
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One screw more and the electronic could be removed. There is a couple of shields around the input terminals.
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Here all 3 shields can be seen, one in black plastic and two in thin nearly transparent plastic. The missing screw is standard for Brymen (It is missing on all the similar Brymen I have tested), only one screw is needed to hold the circuit board in place.
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The back of the meter has a shield with holes for the buzzer and the IR communication.
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The meter uses two stacked circuit boards.
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I had to remove four small screws to take the two circuit boards apart.
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The current input terminals a switch to sense when used, they are routed with resistors (R3 & R20: 10MOhm) in shrink wrap. The current sense shunts are place above the 11A fuse, there is the usual wire shunt (R32), a leaded resistor (R24: 0.82ohm) for mA and a SMD (R19: 85ohm) for uA. The diode (D1, D2, D3, D4) protection is placed near the uAmA GND input terminal and the mA fuse.
The voltage input has two paths, both with resistor (R42, R44, R49, R??: 4×1kOhm) and PTC’s (PTC1 & PTC2), after the PTC are MOVs (VAR1, VAR2. VAR3: 2×820V + 1×1000V). The capacitor (C13: 10nF 1000V) for AC input is also her. The input divider resistor (R48: 10MOhm) is on a ceramic plate.
There is no PTC resistor for the LowZ input, this means the meter is using one of the main input paths for that
The ohm and capacitor input has a couple of transistor pairs (Q5, Q18, Q29, Q27 / Q23, Q2B / Q2, Q3, Q13 / Q22, Q24), in this case some of the “pairs” are more than two transistors.
The RMS converter (U9: AD737J) is next to the reference (U3: LM385Z-1.2), the circuit has two analog muxes (U2 6 U15: 74HC4053), the ADC is probably part of the main chip (U1: BTC AD-81-2), together with lots of muxes.
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More detailed pictures.
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On this side is the two communication leds and springs for connecting to the buzzer and shield. Then GND (Black terminal) needed a batter connection that the circuit board and is reinforced with a wire.
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The top circuit board has pads for the rotary switch and a lot of connections to the bottom board.
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There was two screws holding the display in place.
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The chip (U23: BTC 0197-0A0A) is definitely a LCD driver, it may also be the main processor in the meter, there is a EEPROM (U17: S24CS02: 256 bytes) between the keys. This board is used in multiple models as can be seen on the marking at the lower right.
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Conclusion
This meter has a lot of protection and mounted the right way, it do also have very large fuses. There is one caveat, it is rated for 1000V, but many ranges has a maximum of 600V.
All the common ranges are present and also a lot of extra functions like Peak, Average, Dual-display, AC+DC. This makes it a very universal high end meter with just about any desired function. I would have liked better support for LED testing.
Notes
How do I review a DMM
More DMM reviews
Multimeter design, this explains a lot more about DMM’s than my tear-downs

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Test/review of Logic Analyzer 8 channels 24MHz

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Equipment Logic Analyzer 8 channels 24MHz
DSC_7432
Official specifications:


  • Voltage Range: 0V~5.5V
  • 24MHz 8 Channel.
  • Logic samples each channel at up to 24M times per second.
  • Logic has 8 inputs — it can monitor 8 different digital signals at once.
  • Fine workmanship and good performance.
  • Easy to use.
  • Long service life.

I got it from Ebay dealer: kk-318
This is a very cheap logic analyzer with 8 channels, it did not include any software and that is a very important part of a logic analyzer.
DSC_7399
I was in a antistatic plastic bag inside a envelope.
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The bag contained the analyzer, a USB-mini cable and 10 test wires (Dupont cables).
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Using a USB-mini is a bit old fashioned, but at least the cable was included. The input is a header with 10 pins that fits dupont cables, two a ground the rest is signal.
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This is standard dupont wire, this means replacement are easy to get and also some with a pin in one end for directly connecting to breadboard.
DSC_7438
Some input wires connected.
Software
This piece of hardware is fairly standard and the lack of software is not a serious problem, the two possibilities are: Sigrok PulseView and Saleae Logic.
I started with PulseView, there was a bit fun with installing a driver, but it worked. Later I tried Logic, but it could not find the logic analyzer.
09s
It do not look like a perfect fit, because it also includes a analog channel and that is not present on this logic analyzer, everything else looks fine.
04
Lets get rid of the analog channel.
01s
Four outputs from a binary counter.
02s
The time scale at top may not be the best ways to check the timing with, but this software has a lot of tools all in the decoder menu. Here I use a “Timing” decoder on D2. The delta time of 1.000us is due to the 1MHz sample rate, the software do not reduce the shown digits to the actual resolution.
03s
Some other options. The blue area is the cursor and A & B is markers.
The cursor can be used to measure time with, the markers makes it easier to find a specific location on the timeline.
08s
Here I look on a couple of PWM signals and I use 3 PWM decoders at the same time.
10
Lets use a trigger, this means sampling will not start before this condition is true.
When more channels has a trigger condition they must all be true at the same time.
07s
Data for a Neopixel inclusive a timing decoder and a WS2812 decoder. Here I am missing a button to zoom on available data, I had to use the scroll wheel to zoom in on the data.
11s
A look at some slow I2C communication where I have named the data lines and is using a I2C decoder. This is a beta version of PulseView where the decoders are grouped.
Tear-down
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There is no screws, the box is just clipped together and can be pulled apart.
DSC_7424
Each input has a 100 ohm resistor and a 100kOhm pull down before a HC245 buffer. There is a 3.3V regulator and a EPPROM (24C02: 256 bytes).
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This chip basically does everything, it contains a USB interface, a 8051 processor, hardware based fifos that can stream directly to USB.
chip
From the data sheet.
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Conclusion
The logic analyzer is a nice supplement to many oscilloscopes, especially cheap models. The many decoders are way beyond what most scopes usual can do and decoders will often cost money for scopes, here they are free. The logic analyzer is not as fast as a scope and can only show two levels, this makes it fine for checking a lot of timing, but useless to check signal levels. I tested with both 3.3V and 5V logic, both worked.
Officially the maximum sample rate is 24MHz, but the software frequently locked up when I tried to use that, lower sample rates worked fine.
The software (PulseView) could use a better user interface and some grouping of the decoders (This is present in the newest beta).
This is a very good accessory when working with microprocessors, PWM, protocols, etc., but it cannot replace a scope, only supplement it.
Notes
Sigrok PulseView: https://sigrok.org/wiki/Downloads
Manual: https://sigrok.org/doc/pulseview/0.4.1/manual.pdf
Saleae Logic: https://www.saleae.com/downloads/
Both pieces of software can be downloaded and tested, they will generate some simulation data.

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Astrolux TP01 Review

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Astrolux TP-01 Review

I got a cool pen!

For starters: It's a pen. It writes, in ink. The cartridge itself isn't anything to write home about, but that's not why we're here. It is replaceable with a common cartridge size, if that's your thing. I'm eyeing one with purple ink, myself.

The pen claims to be machined in raw titanium. I don't have the equipment to actually test that, but I'm at least sure it's not aluminum. It's also not steel, although I was surprised to find the pen somewhat weakly attracted to a magnet. I set about disassembling it (all the tools were included), and found that the ink cartridge has a steel sleeve. Without that (or the spring), the entirety of the pen body was not attracted to a magnet. I don't have any reason to think it's not titanium, and it has the right feel.

The overall feel of the pen is raw. When I'm holding it or writing with it (or fidgeting with the bolt-action mechanism), it feels like raw machined metal. This is not a finished feel, this is not a smooth or refined feeling for a pen. But it is kind of cool. It's nice that the clip is removable, and that they supply all the tools to disassemble the pen, as well as a spare of each of three screws (two for the clip, and one for the end of the pen which retains the ink cartridge) and even an extra spring. It can be fully dis- and re-assembled with ease. The only trick is to re-insert the "bolt" from the bolt-action with the shallow cutout facing away from the pen tip.

Let me be serious for a moment. You don't need this pen. I don't need this pen. It doesn't offer any real advantage over other available pens, and it even lacks some of the common additional features of tacticool pens (like a window-breaking point, because a pen needs that?). But it's cool, and it's made of nerd-metal. I will admit that it's likely to make me replace ink cartridges rather than entire pens, and I'll use it more than my other pens because it's cool. So maybe it has a tiny net impact on my plastic use/waste. And maybe the mechanism will be more reliable than other clicky pens I own. But I'll be honest, I can only remember buying one pack of pens in the last ten years, and that was nominally for use at university. My pens before that were provided by parents, and my pens after that have mostly been the left-behind pens of retail customers at a previous place of employment. I still have several Pilot G2s from that...

This pen writes worse than my Pilot G2s or my Uni-Ball Jetstreams. Although it bleeds less than either and can't be smudged like the G2, it's just an average ballpoint cartridge. It's also a bit short; it looks worse than it is, but it's around a half-inch shorter than most of my other pens sitting at my desk. 

Disclaimer: I don't do any affiliate stuff. I didn't receive any compensation for this review; I bought the pen because I wanted it. I will admit, I didn't pay full price, M4d M4x helped me out a bit.

EDC Rotation: ZL SC62 | Jaxman E2L XP-G2 5A | Purple S2+ XPL-HI U6-3A | D4 w/ Luxeon V | RRT-01 
"Back-Ups": EagTac D25C Ti | Olight S1 | Klarus Mini One Ti
L6 XHP70.2 P2 4000K FET+7135 | Jaxman M8 | MF02 | Jaxman Z1 CULNM1.TG | Blue S2+ w/ ML Special
In-progress: Supfire M6 3xXHP50.2 
Others: Nitecore EC23 | Nebo Twyst | Streamlight ProTac 1AA | TerraLux LightStar 100

Test/review of DMM Aneng V7

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DMM Aneng V7
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This is a cheap DMM with all common function. It is both manual and auto ranging.
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The box for the meter is designed for both the V7 and V8 meter.
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Inside the box is a pouch with everything in it, except the manual.
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The package included the DMM, a pair of standard probes, the universal probes, a thermocoupler and a manual in addition to the pouch.
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The probes are unbranded and has removable tip covers and is rated for CAT II 1000V and CAT IV 600V
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The plug is shrouded.
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The thermocoupler is designed for insertion into stuff and is with banana plugs.
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The universal probes can be assembled to many different configuration, they are not high quality, but very useful.
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When using the tilting bale it is possible to turn the switch, but not use the buttons with one hand.
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Display
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All the segments on the display.
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Typical screen during usage, show the range.
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In auto mode it will show “Auto” until voltage or resistance is detected.
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Holding down the NCV button will show EF (Electric field) on the display and change to bars when a actual field is detected. The led below the display will flash red and the buzzer will also sound.
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Between the buttons is a led, it can show red, green and “yellow”, it is used for NCV, continuity and battery test.
Functions
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Buttons:


  • Rel: Shows values relative to current value, will also select manual range. Press again to disable.
  • NCV: When held down the meter is in NCV mode, will override any selected range.
  • Select (Yellow): Select the ranges printed with yellow (Hz/duty-cycle, DC/AC, frequency in 750VAC, frequency for frequency out) mode and between °C/°F
    flashlight: Turns the flashlight on.
  • Max/min: Starts recording maximum and minimum value, press to select between max/min, hold down to disable
  • Hold (Blue): Freezes the display reading, hold down for backlight to turn on.

Rotary switch:

  • Off: Meter is turned off
  • Auto: Meter is in automatic mode, it can measure volt and resistance and will automatic select range.
  • 5 x VDC: The different volt DC ranges from 600mV to 1000V.
  • 5 x VAC: The different volt AC ranges from 600mV to 750V.
  • 6 x A: The different current ranges, use SELECT to change between AC and DC.
  • Batt12V: 12V Battery test
  • Batt9V: 9V Battery test
  • Batt1.5V: 1.5V Battery test
  • FreqOut: Frequency output from 50Hz to 5000Hz, use SELECT to step the frequency.
  • Temp: Temperature with a thermocoupler, use SELECT for °C/°F
  • Hz %: Frequency and duty-cycle.
  • diode: Continuity and diode mode, there is no selection, it is a single mode that do both and for a combined mode it works fairly well.
  • 6 x ohm: The manual resistance ranges, the 600ohm range is only present here, AUTO will not use it.
  • C: Capacity

Input
DSC_8249


  • 20A: High current, it can only withstand 10+ ampere for a short time (Fuse is 10A).
  • mAuA: The lower current ranges, the selector switch will change between two different shunts (Fuse is 600mA).
  • CON: The common terminal for all ranges.
  • xxx: All other ranges.

The terminals fairly retracted into the meter.
Measurements

  • Volt and frequency

    • At 1Vrms input frequency input range is from 0.7Hz to 5MHz
    • Frequency input can handle a DC offset from -2.2V to 2.2V with 1Vrms input.
    • Duty cycle works from 1% to above 90% at 100kHz with 2Vpp, precision is within 2.0
    • Duty cycle works from 1% to above 99% at 100kHz with 4Vpp, precision is within 0.1
    • 1 VAC is 5% down at 2.1kHz (RMS will not work at the frequency), AUTO and manual is similar.
    • Max/min needs less than 150ms to capture a voltage, but need many pulses for it.
    • Input impedance is between 0.8 and 0.9Mohm on DC and AC
    • Input impedance is 10Mohm in mV ranges, up to about 2V, then it drops to 2kOhm.
    • AUTO needs about 0.85V DC or 0.8V AC to select range, it beeps when below 50ohm, lowest ohm range is 6kOhm.
    • In AUTO mode the input voltage must be below 500V, above it will show OL and beep.

  • Current

    • 20A range will give audible alarm at 10A and show OL above 20A
    • Overload protection in uA and mA: 0.6A/250V 5×20mm ceramic fuse
    • Overload protection in A: 20A/250V 6×30mm ceramic fuse

  • Ohm, Continuity, diode and capacitance

    • Ohm needs about 0.6s to measure 100ohm (Manual range makes it very fast), using AUTO it is about 1.5s
    • Ohm is 1.0V open and 0.27mA shorted in 600ohm range
    • Ohm is 0.7V open and 1.6uA down to 0.5uA shorted in other ranges
    • Continuity is fast (About 20ms), AUTO is very slow (About 500ms).
    • Continuity beeps when resistance is below 50ohm, this is also when it switches from diode to continuity.
    • Continuity & diode is 3.9V open and 0.27mA shorted
    • Continuity & diode uses diode mode from 0.07V to 3.0V, current at 3V is 0.27mA
    • 10uF takes about 4 seconds to measure.
    • 11000uF takes about 11 seconds to measure.
    • No overload protection is rated, except for AUTO mode.

  • Miscellaneous

    • 12V battery test uses a 100ohm resistor
    • 9V battery test uses a 910ohm resistor
    • 1.5V battery test uses a 180ohm resistor
    • Frequency output has the following frequencies: 50, 100, 200, 300, 400, 500, 600, 700, 800, 900, 1000, 2000, 3000, 4000, 5000Hz
    • Current consumption of meter is 1.2mA to 2.4mA, diode is 2.4mA, most ranges are around 1.6mA (Backlight add 3.2mA, flashlight 2.6mA, max total current is 8.2mA).
    • Meter works down to 2.1V where it shows OL, it turns off at 2V, battery symbol show at 2.9V.
    • Reading is stable down to 2.3V, then it will increase.
    • Backlight and flashlight is stable down to 3.1V where it will fade out at 2.6V
    • The meter usual need a couple of display update to reach the final value.
    • Viewing angle is good.
    • Display updates around 3 times/sec
    • Flashlight do not turn automatic off, but will turn off when the meter turns off.
    • Backlight will automatic turn off in about 120 seconds.
    • Will automatic turn power off in about 16 minutes.
    • Standard probes can nearly be pushed fully down.
    • Weight is 412g without accessories, but with rubber sleeve and batteries.
    • Size is 176 × 91 × 47mm with rubber sleeve.

  • Probes

    • Standard probe resistance 40mOhm for one.
    • Standard probe wire is 79cm long.
    • Custom probe resistance is 56mOhm
    • Custom probe wire is 86cm long


1uF
A look at the capacitance measurement waveform.
50Hzunloaded
50Hz frequency output, it goes slightly below zero.
5000Hzunloaded
5000Hz frequency output, it also goes slightly below zero.
50Hz3700ohm
50Hz output loaded with 3700 ohm halved the RMS output voltage, there is a output capacitor that is on the small side.
5000Hz1220ohm
5000Hz output with 1220ohm load, again the output is halved, but the curve looks much better.
DMMInputVoltageSweepHz
Frequency input resistance depends on input voltage.
DMMInputVoltageSweepmVDC
The mV range has 10Mohm, until the protection clamps, this is measured on the 600mV range, AC and DC is similar.
DMMschema
Voltage input is a bit low in input impedance at 1Mohm in manual range and 280kOhm in AUTO mode, this is basically always Low-Z.
It handled a mix of AC and DC voltage rather well, the AUTO shows the highest or both if they are similar.
It only supports showing frequency in 750VAC range or with the logic input frequency range.
Tear down
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I had to remove four small screws to open the meter.
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And six more screws to remove the circuit board
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The range switch has seven contacts, a lot of encoding must be done to tell the chip what range is selected, a few signals must also be switches.
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The LCD display is screwed and clipped to the circuit board.
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Two more screws and it was loose.
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All parts are on this side. The 600uA shunt (R1: 99ohm) is next to the mA shunt (R22: 1ohm), only the uA shunt is protected by the 5 diodes (D1..D5). I was a bit curious about the 12V test resistor, it must handle 1.5W, it is a larger resistor (R20: 100ohm), 9V load is next (R26: 910ohm) and then 1.5V (R25: 180ohm), they are all placed after the 0.6A fuse, but it will not protect them from overload. The voltage from these resistors goes to a voltage divider (R31 & R12: 1M & 10K), the output goes directly to the main chip.
The input configuration on the V etc. input is a bit special, it has the typical 10Mohm (R4 & R20: 2×5Mohm), a 1Mohm (R9: 1Mohm), a PTC protected (R10: PTC) and a 800kOhm (R32..R35: 4×100kOhm). Both the 10Mohm and 1Mohm is directly connected to the main chip in all position of the range switch, this is the explanation of the input impedance.
The PTC is used together with a transistor pair (Q1 & Q2) in capacitance, 600ohm, frequency, temperature and frequency out. This goes to the main chip through a resistor (R5: 1kOhm).
There is no microprocessor or diode collection in the meter, this means the main multimeter chip is dedicated/programmed for this meter and it must have electronic calibration build in. There is a voltage regulator (U2) and transistors for Buzzer, backlight and flashlight (Q3, Q4 and Q5).
At the top of the circuit board is the NCV antenna.
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Closeup of the top part.
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This side only has pads for the range switch, LCD and buttons. The indicator LED is mounted on the other sides and lights through a hole in the circuit board.
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Conclusion
This is a cheap meter and as usual with cheap meters they do not live up to their CAT rating, 250VAC fuses and maximum 500V in AUTO mode do not match with a 1000V CAT rating. A single 1Mohm resistor to handle the full input voltage is also wrong.
With that said the meter do have a lot of functions and do most of it fairly well, but there are some omissions. I do not see a big reason for a manual range meter, most auto ranging meters can easily be locked in a range when needed. The low input impedance is a huge disadvantage for electronic use, but it can be a advantage for other measurements.
Notes
How do I review a DMM
More DMM reviews

My website with reviews of many chargers and batteries (More than 1000): https://lygte-info.dk/

Test/review of DMM Aneng V8

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DMM Aneng V8
DSC_8257
This is a cheap DMM with all common function.
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The box for the meter is designed for both the V7 and V8 meter.
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Inside the box is a pouch with everything in it, except the manual.
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The package included the DMM, a pair of standard probes, the universal probes, a thermocoupler and a manual in addition to the pouch.
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The probes are unbranded, has removable tip covers and is rated for CAT II 1000V, to CAT IV 600V
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The plug is shrouded.
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The thermocoupler is designed for insertion into stuff and is with a dual banana plug connector.
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The universal probes can be assembled to many different configuration, they are not high quality, but very useful.
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When using the tilting bale it is possible to turn the switch, but not use the buttons with one hand.
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Display
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All the segments on the display. There is both bargraph and secondary display
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Typical screen during usage with bargraph.
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In AC modes the secondary display is used for frequency.
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The NCV mode shows the usual EF (Electric field) on the display and change to bars when a actual field is detected. The led below the display will flash red and the buzzer will also sound.
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In temperature mode it shows both Celsius and Fahrenheit at the same time.
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Between the buttons is a led that will show red in continuity and NCV mode.
Secondary display functions, value after / is secondary value:
VAC: VAC/frequency, frequency/duty-cycle
Frequency: frequency/duty-cycle
Current: DCA, ACA/frequency, frequency/duty-cycle
Temperature: Celsius/Fahrenheit
Functions
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Buttons:


  • Range: Select and change manual range (Used in auto range position), hold down to return to auto range.
  • V.F.C.: Apply a high pass filter to AC voltage, it will also lock the range to 750VAC.
  • Select (Yellow): Select the ranges printed with yellow.
  • Rel: Shows values relative to current value, will also select manual range. Press again to disable. Hold down for flashlight.
  • Max/min: Starts recording maximum and minimum value, press to select between max/min, hold down to disable
  • Hold (Blue): Freezes the display reading.

Rotary switch:

  • Off: Meter is turned off
  • NCV: Non Contact voltage or electric field detection.
  • SquareOut: Frequency output from 50Hz to 5000Hz, use SELECT to step the frequency.
  • batt12V: 12V battery test
  • batt9V: 9V battery test
  • batt1.5V: 1.5V battery test.
  • 6 x ohm: Manual ohm ranges.
  • 3 x VAC: Manual VAC ranges
  • 4 x VDC: Manual VDC ranges.
  • °F °C: Temperature range.
  • uA: Micro ampere DC and AC with frequency and duty cycle for AC
  • mA: Milli ampere DC and AC with frequency and duty cycle for AC
  • A: Ampere DC and AC with frequency and duty cycle for AC
  • cont: Continuity
  • diode: Diode
  • C: Capacitance
  • ohm: Resistance
  • mVDC: Millivolt DC
  • mVAC: Millivolt AC with frequency and duty cycle.
  • VDC: Volt DC
  • VAC: Volt AC with frequency and duty cycle.

Input
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  • 20A: High current, it can only withstand 10+ ampere for a short time (Fuse is 10A).
  • mAuA: The lower current ranges, the selector switch will change between two different shunts (Fuse is 600mA).
  • COM: The common terminal for all ranges.
  • xxx: All other ranges.

The terminals fairly retracted into the meter.
Measurements

  • Volt and frequency

    • At 100mVrms input frequency input range is from 1.1Hz to 6MHz
    • At 1Vrms input frequency on VAC range is from 1Hz to 40kHz
    • Frequency input requires a zero crossing on both logic and VAC input
    • Duty cycle works from 2% to above 99% at 100kHz with 1Vpp, precision is within 0.2
    • 1 VAC is 5% down at 1.9kHz (RMS will not work at the frequency), AUTO and manual is similar.
    • 7 VAC is 5% down at 500Hz with VFC (RMS will not work at the frequency), AUTO and manual is similar.
    • When using VFC the range is locked to 750VAC, it cannot be select in manual voltage ranges.
    • Max/min needs less than 200ms to capture a voltage, but need many pulses for it.
    • Input impedance is between 10 and 11Mohm on DC and AC
    • Input impedance is high on mVDC (AC is limited to 10Mohm) and will drop to a few kOhm above 2V.

  • Current

    • 20A range will give audible alarm at 10A
    • Overload protection in uA and mA: 0.8A/250V 5×20mm ceramic fuse
    • Overload protection in A: 20A/250V 6×30mm ceramic fuse and 20A/250V fuse.

  • Ohm, Continuity, diode and capacitance

    • Ohm needs about 1.8s to measure 100ohm in auto range and 0.7s in manual range
    • Ohm is 1.0V open and 0.38mA shorted
    • Continuity is quick (Below 30ms).
    • Continuity beeps when resistance is below 50ohm.
    • Continuity is 1.0V open and 0.38mA shorted
    • Diode range uses 3.2V, max. display is 3.000V at 0.12mA, max. current is 1.6mA shorted
    • 10uF takes about 5 seconds to measure.
    • 11000uF takes about 10 seconds to measure.
    • No overload protection is rated.

  • Miscellaneous

    • 12V battery test uses a 1200ohm resistor
    • 9V battery test uses a 910ohm resistor
    • 1.5V battery test uses a 150ohm resistor
    • Frequency output has the following frequencies: 50, 100, 200, 300, 400, 500, 600, 700, 800, 900, 1000, 2000, 3000, 4000, 5000Hz
    • Current consumption of meter is 26mA (With backlight it is 29mA).
    • Meter works down to 2.4V where it turns off, battery symbol show at 2.9V.
    • Reading is stable within a few counts until it turns off.
    • Backlight fades slowly with falling voltage, display is nearly unreadable at 2.5V
    • The meter usual need a couple of display update to reach the final value.
    • Viewing angle is good, except from the top.
    • Display updates around 3 times/sec
    • Flashlight do not turn automatic off, but will turn off when the meter turns off.
    • Will automatic turn power off in about 15 minutes.
    • Standard probes can nearly be pushed fully down.
    • Weight is 416g without accessories, but with rubber sleeve and batteries.
    • Size is 176 × 91 × 47mm with rubber sleeve.

  • Probes

    • Standard probe resistance 40mOhm for one.
    • Standard probe wire is 79cm long.
    • Custom probe resistance is 56mOhm
    • Custom probe wire is 86cm long


1uF
A look at the capacitance measurement waveform.
freq50Hz
50Hz frequency output, it swings around zero.
freq5000Hz
5000Hz frequency output.
freq50Hz100kOhm
50Hz output loaded with 100kohm halved the output voltage
freq5000Hz100kOhm
5000Hz output with 100kOhm load.
DMMInputVoltageSweepHz
Frequency input resistance depends on input voltage.
DMMInputVoltageSweepmVDC
The mVDC range is high impedance, until the protection clamps, mVAC is limited to 10Mohm.
DMMschema
Tear down
DSC_8424
I had to remove four small screws to open the meter.
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And 6 more to remove the circuit board.
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The range switch has 7 connections.
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All the electronic is on this side. The uA shunt (R16: 99ohm) is in series with the mA shunt (R15: 1ohm), the five diodes (D1, D2, D3, D4, D6) is across the input voltage, but after the fuse. The voltage from the current shunts goes to a resistor (R9: 100kOhm) and the to the main chip. The voltage input has two resistors in series (R6 & R32: 2×5Mohm) going directly to the main chip.
The battery tester for 1.5V (R36: 150ohm), 9V (R40: 910ohm) and 12V (R41: 1200ohm) do not have any overload protection, except the fuse and that is not very safe because the V input is directly connected to the resistors (mA & V input is shorted together through the fuse in these 3 ranges).
This meter has the very common small SMD resistor (R8: 910kOhm) that must handle overload on a lot of ranges: mVDC, mVAC, frequency, resistance, capacitance, diode, continuity and temperature. For resistance, capacitance, diode, continuity the PTC and the transistor pair (Q1 & Q2) protection the current output, but it is also connected in mVDC, mVAC, frequency and temperature. Frequency output is through a resistor (R17: 100kOhm), this will give a fair amount of protection, but not against high voltage.
The main chip (U2: DTM0660L) and its EEPROM (U3: K24C08) is a well proven solution is cheap meters, this meter also adds a display driver (U1: unmarked) for the inverted display. There is transistors for backlight (Q3), flashlight (Q5) and buzzer (Q4), in addition to a voltage regulator (U4: 7130). There are a few diodes (D5, D8, D10), they may be used for rotary switch encoding to the chip.
The NCV antenna is at the top.
DSC_8443
A closeup of the top part.
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This side only has the pads for the rotary switch, the buttons and the LCD. The LCD layout is printed on the circuit board.
DSC_8441
Conclusion
This is a cheap meter and as usual with cheap meters they do not live up to their CAT rating, 250VAC fuses do not match with a 1000V CAT rating. A small SMD resistor that must withstand 1000’s of volt is not realistic either. Or the battery load resistors that is directly connected to the V terminal when battery test ranges is selected.
With that said the meter do have a lot of functions and do most of it fairly well. The manual range is a bit silly, it is easy enough to select a range manually when needed with the RANGE button.
Notes
How do I review a DMM
More DMM reviews

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Test/review of DMM BSide ADMS7

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DMM BSide ADMS7
DSC_8665
This meter is a very simple meter with most functions automatic. It has a very large and easily readable display.
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I got it in a brown neutral cardboard box with some stickers on.
DSC_8661
It included the DMM and a instruction sheet.
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Probes are branded with BSide and has removable tip covers. There is a CATIII 1000V rating on the cover, but none on probe.
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Display
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The above picture shows all the segments on the display, not all are used.
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Display when idle, it will show AUTO and some bars.
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When measuring DC voltage or ohms it will show the value and the range.
The bargraph is scaled up to 6000, this is only valid in ohms, in volts it must be read as 600.0.
DSC_8691
In AC mode the lower display will show frequency.
DSC_8673
The V-Alert is the usual NCV and used the bargraph to show the electric field strength. There is only 3 steps with voltage, the above picture is the first step, it uses sound in addition to the display.
DSC_8696
The live function will detect mains voltage with on one connection and then show LIVE, including sound.
Functions
DSC_8674
Buttons:


  • on: A press on this button will turn the meter on or off. Both on and off only requires a short press.
  • V-Alert/Live: This button will select the two detection function, it has some sort of history function and may start with either V-Alert or LIVE
  • Hold: Freezes the display.
  • light: A short press will turn on the flashlight.

Input
DSC_8680
The probes are not replaceable.
Measurements

  • Volt and frequency

    • Frequency counter do not require a zero crossing.
    • At 1Vrms input frequency range is from 36Hz to 550Hz
    • At 7Vrms input frequency range is from 36Hz to 1kHz
    • 7 VAC is 5% down at 1.2kHz (RMS will not work at this frequency).
    • A combined AC+DC voltage is listed as AC with the a total value, but not the RMS value.
    • Input impedance is 1Mohm on DC and AC
    • Meter will measure DC voltage above 0.3 volt for positive and 0.7V for negative.
    • Meter will measure AC voltage above 0.9 volt and be very confused below.
    • Rated overload protection is 600V DC or AC

  • Current

    • The meter cannot measure current.

  • Ohm, continuity, diode and capacitance

    • Ohm needs about 0.7s to measure 100ohm
    • Ohm/Continuity is -0.8V open with -2V spikes) and -0.03mA shorted
    • Continuity is slow (About 300ms).
    • Continuity beeps when resistance is below 30ohm
    • Rated overload protection is 600V DC or AC

  • Miscellaneous

    • Current consumption of the meter is 2.3mA with backlight it is 32mA (14mA at 4V)
    • Current consumption when off is 0.026mA, this means the batteries will last about a year.
    • Meter works down to 2.4V where it shows random values, it turns off at about 1.8V, battery symbol show at 3.6V.
    • Meter readings are stable until 3.0V
    • Flashlight fades with voltage and is very dim at 2.5V
    • The meter may need one or two update to show the final value.
    • Viewing angle is good
    • Display updates around 2 times/sec
    • Flashlight turn off after about 30 seconds.
    • Will automatic turn power off in about 3 minutes.
    • Weight is 112g without accessories, but with batteries.
    • Size is 136.9 × 73 × 12.7mm.

  • Probes

    • Probe wire is 58cm long.


sense
The sense voltage when checking for resistance.
DMMInputVoltageSweepAutoLow
When supplying a external DC voltage it will turn the checking voltage off above 0.3V and show a DC voltage.
The input resistance is 1Mohm
DMMInputVoltageSweepAutoHigh
The 1Mohm is the same all the way to 100V.
DMMschema
Ohm has a 6-8ohm error.
It will mark a voltage as AC if it contains DC with some ripple, but it will not necessary show the RMS value.
The 1Mohm input impedance is close to being a Low-Z function.
Tear down
DSC_8697
To open the meter I had to remove four screws. The manual specify AAA batteries, but it is CR2032.
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The leads uses the typical rubber grommet to provide strain relief and protection from sharp bends.
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I had to remove 3 more screws to get the circuit board out.
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The input has two paths, one through a couple of resistors (R25, R26, R27, R8: 547kOhm, 352kohm, 90kOhm, 9kOhm -> 998kOhm) and another path through a PTC, diode (D1) and some transistors (Q6 & Q7), it looks like the transistors is used to enable and disable the ohm range. There is two types of IC’s to handle the automatic range switch, they are MUXes (U2, U4, U6: Probably SN74LVC1G3157) and OpAmps (U3 & U5: Probably LMV358).
There is a NCV antenna at the top of the board, next to the flashlight led (FL1), that is a square led with a control transistor (Q5) next to it. The power supply chip (U7: 8503-33: 3.3V) is between two decoupling capacitors (C11 & C12).
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The meter uses real switches and has a buzzer on this side.
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Conclusion
As usual the safety is on the low side
I like the large display on the meter, but that is about the only thing.
This is a very simple meter without ranges, it works and may be fine for for a rough and simple check, but it cannot do much more. Because it only has one range VDC, one VAC and one ohm range, it only has decent resolution in a fairly limited range of values. The true RMS is a bit doubtful, when it cannot show a combination of AC+DC correctly. The current consumption when off is way to high.
Notes
How do I review a DMM
More DMM reviews
About thermocouplers

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Test/review of USBEE AX PRO Logic Analyzer 8 channels 24MHz

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USBEE AX PRO Logic Analyzer 8 channels 24MHz
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Official specifications:


  • 24MHz 8 Digital Channels and 2 Analog Channels.
  • Digital Voltage Range: -1V ~ 6V
  • Low level below 1.4V
  • High level above 1.6V
  • Analog Voltage Range: -10V ~ 10V
  • Analog resolution 256 steps.

I got it from Ebay dealer: cybereveryday
This is a cheap logic analyzer with 8 digital channels and 2 analog. The dealer showed lots of screen shots from USBEE software, but there is a serious caveat!
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I got it in a cardboard box with the analyzer and a USB cable.
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There was no software or manual on the box, only the cables and the analyzer.
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The marking on the top specifies the connection in the connector below it.
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It uses a old style USB-B connector.
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The cables are marked with the signal name. Being female means they do not plug directly in a breadboard.
USBEE Software
2s
Looking a bit on the pictures on the dealers website and I saw this one and it looks very suspicious. Why is there a keygen, according to the instruction I must send the code to USBEE and get a key return! This, of course, means it is a copy and if you do this you will be using pirated software.
I did not even get a possibility to try it because I need:

  • USBEE software
  • USBEE driver
  • Keygen

From the USBEE website I could download the software, but not the driver and neither USBEE or the dealer had the keygen on their website (I could maybe have found the keygen, but it is pointless without the driver).
0s
I could look at the software in demo mode.
USBEE have discovered the clones and are selling a version of their software for them.
USBEE Paid software
When paying for the software you get a PDF document with download links and instructions on how to install the software. This is considerable more complicated than just clicking on the software and answering yes a couple of times. Multiple software packages must be installed, other software must be unpacked and files copied to system directories.
8s
The first software package do not look very nice and it do not work either. It includes a lot of modules and at least one of them triggered a blue screen on my PC. This is rather bad for paid software.
1s
It also includes the nicer looking software.
2s
And it partially works, it can read the digital channels and one analog channel.
3s
A nice detail is that timing is shown when the cursor is moved to a track. The arrows on “Digital 1” shows what the measurements below is for.
4s
A channel can be configured to show different values, here I have selected Async (Serial data).
5s
And the first first channel is converter to show the actual data.
6s
It is also possible to use the small + to add another channel and then configure the second channel to show the data. This leaves the first channel free to show the curve.
7s
The Analog input will only work for one channel and it is not very good at showing small signals. Here I uses a 0.1V sinus signal.
Sigrok PulseView Software
There is another possibility for software, this is the public domain Sigrok PulseView software, it supports many different brands of logic analyzers.
Here I uses the nightly build version, this probably has some bugs, but it also has some improvements from the standard version (See link at bottom).
0s
First I connected two PWM signals to the USBEE, one of them to both analog and digital channel. The highest speed I could use without lockups was 12MHz sample rate.
1s
The digital channels looks fine, but I am not very impressed with the analog channel.
2s
I control the visible channels here and there is one serious problem: Only one analog channel, the hardware has two.
7s
Using the other analog channel worked much better, here I can see the signal is 3.3V logic.
8s
Increasing the analog frequency, here it is 500kHz, but I did not find a decoder to measure it. The input bandwidth is limited, I uses +/-7.5V for input, but I the waveform is more like +/-5V.
9s
At lower frequency it is better.
10s
Another problem I have is the ranging on the analog input, it do not change the analog frontend, only the digital multiplication (I have a +/-0.1V sinus signal).
3s
The standard view is fairly dumb, but adding some decoders fixes it. There is a huge selection of decoders and they can do more than decoding protocols. Here I have used a timing and a PWM decoder, but on D0. If I was using more I could change the name of them, i.e. instead of being called “Timing” I could easily change it to “D0” or “PWM on D6”.
4s
I want to check some serial communication, there a trigger is very useful to start the capture.
5s
And also a bit of pre-trigger capture, this gives the decoder a level to start on.
6s
D0 is the captured data, I used to decoders on the same data, one to show Ascii and one to show hex.
Tear-down
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I had to remove one screw to open the box.
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On this side the the ADC (TLC5510: 8bit 20MSPS), a voltage regulator (AMS1117-3.3), some OpAmp (MV358: probably LMV358), two unknown IC’s and 4 leds. The two trimpots may be for adjustment of the analog inputs and the relay may be for selecting analog range.
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On this side is the main controller (CY7C68013A) connected to the inputs through 390ohm resistors, the two 6 pin chips may be some sort of transient diodes. There is also a voltage regulator (AMS1117 2.85).
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Conclusion
A logic analyzer is a nice supplement to a oscilloscopes, but this analyzer is way to expensive (See other model linked at bottom) for its functions and lack of software. The USBEE software has a lot of modules and functions, I did not try them after I got a blue screen. If they work they may be worth the money, but the suite I tested above is not better than PulseView.
With the lack of fully supporting software I do not see this as a good buy, the cheap one I have linked below can do nearly the same for much less money.
Notes
Sigrok: PulseViewManual
USBEE: USBee AX
Both pieces of software can be downloaded and tested, they will generate some simulation data.
The USBEE and PulseView uses different drivers and they are not compatible, i.e. it requires some install/uninstall to switch between the two softwares.
A cheaper logical analyzer without analog, I also use PulseView here

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[Review] PerfectPrime IR0280 Thermal Imaging Camera

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Hello everyone,

 

Andy Ho, digital marketing manager of PerfectPrime, has given me the opportunity to testing one of their latest products, the IR0280 thermal imaging camera. As flashlights have not known to be THE typical scenario for using thermal imaging cameras yet, I want to bring this a bit closer to you. As usual in all of my reviews, I will be unbiased and honest with my observations and try to give you a differentiated assessment of what is good and what is worth to be improved. I did not receive any kind of compensation except for the IR0280 camera by providing this review.

 

About PerfectPrime

PerfectPrime is a rather young retailer of consumer electronics and was at least to me a rather unknown distributor of thermal imaging cameras. Most of the popular brands are FLIR, Fluke or Bosch with premium prices that can go way beyond $ 8.000,00. Since demands for affordable thermal imaging cameras have increased significantly over the past years, PerfectPrime has developed and introduced some interesting devices and has successfully become one of the leading players.

https://perfectprime.com/

 

What are thermal imaging cameras?

Thermal imaging cameras, also known as thermographic or infrared cameras, are devices that form a heat zone image by using infrared radiation, very similar to usual cameras that use visible light. While visible light is within a range of 400 – 700 nanometers, infrared cameras operate in wavelenghts of up to 14.000 nanometers.

 

Typical applications of thermal imaging cameras

  • Home use (find heat spikes behind a wall due to overloaded electricity)
  • Checking electrical elements for ceiling temperatures (e.g. on IT server banks) or faulty circuits
  • Checking water leaks, missing insulation
  • Checking window seals / thermal bridges and outlets
  • Checking HVAC (heating, ventilation, air condition) leaks
  • Industrial applications such as fire service, electrical maintenance
  • Military and scientific areas

 

What good is a thermal imaging camera for flashlights?

Ever since I was interested into lighting technology in general and flashlights in particular, I always came across the challenges to manage and measure heat as a byproduct of high performance LEDs. Everyone who ever tried out an Emisar D4 knows very well how much heat can be generated within a blink of an eye. Being confronted with so much heat generated in a flashlight following crucial aspects need to be taken into consideration:

 

Thermal conductivity

With different materials you get different thermal conductivities. Copper has a great thermal conductivity but is known to be heavy and less sturdy while titanium has a poor thermal conductivity but is great in terms of weight and stability. That’s why it’s reasonable to use copper for the head section of flashlights (driver and LED MCPCB) whereas titanium and aluminum are a good choice for hosting the bezel, battery tube and tailcap as these are not subject to heat up this much.

 

Thermal dissipation

Once heat is generated it needs to be taken away as quickly as possible from its source. Aluminum is known to be a good trade off in terms of conductivity and weight. A good flashlight host will transfer the heat onto its entire host respectively its entire surface to achieve the best dissipation.

 

Monitor and control excess heat

With more and more high performance flashlights coming onto the market requirements for effective and efficient stepdown procedures become relevant. FET driven pocket rockets like Lumintop’s FW3A or Emisar’s D4 can heat up to way beyond 70°C within a few seconds making it necessary to trigger countermeasures within even less time. A good temperature regulation will ensure that both the driver and the flashlight host structure cannot heat up beyond its given threshold value, typically around 50° - 65°C.

 

So, with a thermal imaging camera in place I expect to visualize und understand:

- Effective thermal conductivity between the flashlight’s component.

- Heat being transferred and dissipated from the source

- Monitor and evaluate the actual surface temperature while operating the flashlight

 

Price/Performance classification of the IR280

The IR0280 is one of PerfectPrime’s latest cameras. However, it is not the top of their line as you can see on the spreadsheet above. While other camera’s like IR0018 or IR0019 offer a much higher resolution this one here features video recording, a wider temperature range and – most important – a very budget-friendly price for less than $ 200,00. Eventually, when buying a thermal imaging camera you always need to ask yourself three questions:

  1. What is my budget?
  2. What scenarios/applications am I going to use my camera for?
  3. How often will I be using my camera?

My conclusion until here is:

As long as you don’t need thermal imaging cameras for your everyday profession where all your monthly income or even people’s lives may depend on you don’t need to invest into a $ 8.000 camera. Many home use tasks or semiprofessional tasks can be encountered with more budget-friendly devices The remaining question will be: Is the IR0280 good enough to fulfill personal requirements such as measuring and analyzing heat on flashlights? We will get to the answer later on.

 

Key specifications of the IR0280's hardware and software

 

Where to buy the IR0280?

 

The IR0280 camera can be ordered through different sales channels.

 

PerfectPrime:

https://perfectprime.com/collections/thermal-imaging-camera/products/ir0280

Amazon US:

https://www.amazon.com/PerfectPrime-Infrared-Thermal-Temperature-22-1832%C2%B0F/dp/B07RFS28ZH

Amazon DE:

https://www.amazon.de/PerfectPrime-Infrared-Thermal-Visible-Temperature/dp/B07RFS28ZH

 

Content of package and first impressions

The camera arrived in a black plastic bag without much of a protection except for some bubble wrap. Fortunately, it did not take any damages during transportation.

Inside the plastic envelope I found the IR0280 camera, a miniUSB cable, the (English only) manual and a card with some instructions how to register and download the manual.

The camera itself feels very light-weighted and handy. On the read side you see both the visual camera as well as the infrared camera. The surface of the housing is slightly roughened in some places and conveys a tactile feeling.

The left side shows a rubber boot and underneath the microSDHC slot with the inserted 16GB card as well as the miniUSB port to recharge the camera or connect it to a computer. On the bottom side you find a thread to mount the IR0280 onto a tripod.

 

Charging the IR0280

While charging the indicator is red. Once finished it turns green.

 

Functionalities and User Interface

 

 

 

Starting the device requires to press the power button for 2 seconds. After some seconds to boot up the OS you can start to measure. Rest assured, the device can be put into standby for immediate use if you want to avoid waiting for booting up once again.

 

The IR0280’s operating system is based upon Android. This key feature makes it more flexible in terms of future updates, easier in handling software maintenance and more advanced in coding a state of the art yet simple user interface. The menu screen uses symbols that are easy to understand without looking up their meaning in the manual. All menu items can be selected by using the four-direction buttons below the screen. Pulling the trigger (measure button) accesses the selected menu item and is also used to save changes made by the user.

 

Once everything is set up to your liking you can start to measure…

For demonstration purposes, we here have a typical IR image of a human hand, indicating the temperature of the marked spot. By touching the screen you can easily select and measure any spot you see on the screen. Apart from that information you will get the minimum and maximum temperature and the color palette indicated on the bottom. The top area indicates the current time as well as the set emissivity value.

Any click on the trigger / measure button will save an image to the SDHC card. Press & hold will record a video (MP4-format) as long as you keeping holding the button. You can select of three different views

 

 

The overlay function is quite interesting as it compensates the low resolution a bit and enriches the image with visual details for better orientation.

Moreover, you have a choice of two filters.

 

 

 

During my testing I found the Wide Gaussian filter most convenient as it reduces disturbing artifacts and smoothes out the low IR resolution. All my pictures and video footage were made with the Wide Gaussian filter.

There is also a zoom function available which I did not find necessary as details are not improving due to a lack of higher resolution.

 

 

If you always want to indicate the lowest and highest temperature spot you can activate the „Min/Max Crosshairs“.

 

For individual needs the IR0280 offers 8 different color palettes. For reference, I have taken 8 pictures of a well-heated Sofirn SD05:

 

Radiometric data

This feature is a big advantage to those who want to run deeper analyses of their recorded images/videos. Along with each recording the IR0280 saves meta data, e.g. the actual temperature of each pixel. These data can be processed by thermoanalytical software suites like COMSOL Multiphysics® or The Mathworks® MATLAB.

 

Testing the IR0280

 

Zotac ZBOX CI520 Silent PC

A silent PC is a very interesting item to use a thermal imaging camera with. As there are no active cooling components the PC needs to be cooled by passive means in terms of heat convection. As you can see on the picture above, the computer shows significantly more heat than its surrounding area. Details from about a foot / 30cm distance are sufficient enough to see hot spot areas in the center part as well as dissipated heat on the ac adaptor and the power cord behind the computer.

 

Miscellaneous

Taking pictures of farther heat sources reveals the camera's limitations. The resolution of 32x32 pixels is by far too low to indicate fine details or accurate readings. However, I am still impressed by the ability to safely locate heat sources from distances of up to 4-5m. With the overlay function in place missing details of the heat signature can be compensated by the visual image.

 

Sofirn SD05 diving flashlight (XHP50.2, 2.550lm)

Sofirn's brand new SD05 diving flashlight is advertised with a 3min timer-triggered stepdown and a thermal regulation that also reduces power/brightness when the driver's temperature reaches 55°C. I wanted to find out how hot the light will get with repetitive activation of the highest output mode and how the heat will distribute along the flashlight's host structure.

 

 

Conclusion:

The first video illustrates the heat generation via infrared spectrum. The second video uses the overlay function to show both visual and thermal images. The IR0280 is capable to visualize the heat generation starting in the flashlight's head and distributing all over the entire host structure. Details at close range are sufficient. I was not able to drive the heat beyond 53°C which is a good indicator that Sofirn's ATR technology works effectively.

 

Sofirn SP36S Flashlight (LH351D, 5.200lm)

Sofirn's SP36S is quite a powerhouse with its four LH351D 5.000K 90CRI LEDs and up to 5.200lm of luminus flux in total. Unlike the original SP36 there's no Andúril or NarsilM in place but a proprietary UI with Sofirn's ATR technology, triggered after 3min and/or 55°C temperature.

 

Conclusion:

The first video demonstrates how quickly the flashlight can get hot. You can see very clearly where the heat source is and how it distributes to the business end and later on back to the battery tube and the tailcap. The second video was shot in IR spectrum when I relaunched the turbo mode once again. It drove the SP36S up to about 57°C. At the end of the video you see that all the heat is evenly distributed along the entire host for optimal heat dissipation. The temperature decreases immediately as the flashlight is being shut down.

 

Sofirn SP70 flashlight (XHP70.2, 5.500lm)

Last but not least, Sofirn's SP70 is a big light with a long aluminum host structure. This example should visualize the heat transfer from its source even better. Sofirn's ATR is configured to 3min and/or 60°C stepdown.

Conclusion:

The SD05 and SP36S transfer their heat quickly onto the entire aluminum structure. The SP70 instead takes quite some time before heat gets down to the tail end of the host. This is of course due to the fact that heat rises upwards and that the major surface area for heat convection is located around the head structure with deep cooling fins and a wide bezel. The hottest area is around the side switch which is closest to the driver. To my surprise I was unable to trigger ATR since my SP70 did not heat up to 60°C, probably due to too much internal resistance or too weak batteries. Again, the IR0280 was able to visualize heat generation and indicate accurate readings of the surface temperature. However, the larger the object gets the more interested I am into a more detailed image with a higher resolution.

 

Bottom line and final verdict

Is the IR0280 good enough to fulfill personal requirements such as measuring and analyzing heat on flashlights?

Yes, in my humble opinion you get a good bang for the buck. At close ranges the camera is capable to effectively indicate issues in thermal conductivity, heat transfer and dissipation or issues with thermal thresholds of electrical components. Of course, higher resolution is very desirable and better looking on images or video footage. But as stated before this comes with a different price level and is necessary only if you really need more details or if you want to analyze remote objects.

 

WhatI like about the IR0280:

  • Reasonable price/performance ratio with regard to competitive devices
  • Cutting-edge user interface and firmware by using Android OS with the ability for software updates
  • With Android in place and a touchscreen to use the camera’s UI is very easy to operate
  • Wide options to customize image/video recording (color ranges, visual overlay function)
  • A non-proprietary power source (18650 lithium-ion battery) is more environment-friendly for it effectively avoids planned obsolescence and is easier to replace if the battery becomes worn out.
  • While some of the lower priced cameras use AAA or AA batteries, this one uses a powerful 18650 battery, providing longer runtimes and easier recharging.
  • Capability to record video footage to visualize heat transfer and dissipation
  • Capability to use both visual and IR spectrum (separate or overlay) for more detailed analyses, usually available on higher-end cameras (see FLIR’s MSX technology)
  • Capability to adjust the emissivity coefficient for different types of surfaces to gain higher accuracy
  • Wide measuring range (-30°C – 1.000°C / -22°F – 1832°F)
  • Good tactile, light-weighted handling with grippy surface and tailstand capability incl. the option to mount the camera onto a tripod
  • Capability to record and export radiometric raw data, normally to be found in high price cameras from Fluke or FLIR. These data can later be processed with professional thermoanalytic software suites.
  • It comes with a replaceable 16GB microSD card.
  • The manual is very easy to follow and understand.

What I would like to see improved:

(Actually, there is only little to gripe about this camera but I will list it anyway...)

  • Press & Hold to take videos can be difficult for taking long-term videos as footage can become blurred when moving the camera. It would be a nice feature to have the option between “press & hold” and “hold 2s to start recording and click to stop recording”.
  • The trigger switch is sometimes a bit less responsive, especially while recording you need to keep the trigger pulled with some force to avoid any recording interruptions
  • Shipping envelopes could be padded or designed more sturdy in order to protect the device from damages during transportation
  • miniUSB is fine but subject to wear with heavy usage – USB-C would be a nice improvement even though it may increase the total costs by $ 2-4 per device.
  • A protective sleeve would suit nicely to cover the sensitive parts of the device.
  • The camera’s thermal resolution is the only real weak point. 32x32 pixels will limit its applications to near-field scenarios (< 2m) as you may not see enough details in the distance. Furthermore, a higher resolution will also indicate more details on close-up pictures or video footages, e.g. heat spreading around a cold spot on an aluminum tube. However, the support of a second camera in the visible spectrum is a great add on and compensates the lack of a higher resolution a bit. Taking the IR0280’s price into consideration and comparing it with competitors in the same pricing range you get a lot.
  • The manual does not feature the CSV export nor does it explain anything about radiometric data the camera is capable to record. Some supplemental information would be helpful.

 

I like to wind up my review by saying many thanks to Andy Ho for providing the IR0280 and to the entire BLF community for giving me the opportunity to present my impressions. Thank you for reading my review and sharing your thoughts.

 

Cheers,

Thomas

 

P.S.

If you are interested in buying thermal imaging cameras from PerfectPrime, please have a look onto Andy's thread and receive a 10% discount: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67755

[Review] Roaring Fire Shoulder Bag

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Roaring Fire Shoulder Bag

MSRP: $19

Manufacturer page: N/A

Store link: https://www.amazon.com/Roaring-Fire-Tactical-Shoulder-Crossbody/dp/B07SN...

I was sent this light to review free of charge but, as always, I've tried to be as unbiased as possible.



TL;DR

Laura, one of my old Olight contacts, sent me an email a while ago saying that she'd left her position at Olight to start her own outdoor company, Roaring Fire. This is obviously super cool, so I jumped at the opportunity to review one of their bags. I've never reviewed a backpack before, so bear with me. I know flashlight terminology, but I don't know the words for all things backpacks, so you'll see few mentions of "stuff" and "thingies".



Album link

Packaging

It just came in a plastic bag in a bubble envelope.

Build

First off, this is a $20 Chinese made backpack, not a Goruck or an Osprey or anything. You can't expect super high quality. There is some sloppy sewing, some so-so elastic, some non-YKK zippers, and lots of that one smell that Chinese made synthetic fabric based products always seem to have.


This shoulder bag is just that, a shoulder bag. It's small. Here it is compared to a 21L Goruck GR1.

According to the description, the bag is constructed out of 900D Oxford fabric (woven polyester), with a waterproof coating on the inside of it. This coating isn't flexible, and it shows signs of fatigue if you crumple it.

Here's a fabric comparison with my Goruck. I assume the webbing is nylon, but it's not specified.


Starting at the outer-most section of the bag, there are two rows of MOLLE webbing and a zipper pocket with a grommet at the bottom. I assume that's to allow water to drain, but I'm unsure.

After that, there's another zipper pocket, and inside that there's an elastic band with two sections, and a smaller interior pocket. Above this second zipper there's a velcro section (fuzzy) and a little bit of cord secured through four loops. What this cord is for, I also do not know.

Then comes the main pocket. Inside this are two sub-pockets. The sides of the bag are also covered in MOLLE. This is a great spot to add a water bottle holder. 


The top of the bag has a carry handle and a large flap with a very large plastic clip on it that attaches to the shoulder strap.

The back has breatheable netting/padding stuff that forms another pocket, which can be used to store the flap if you'd rather not use the strap. There are plastic D rings on the four corners of the back side of the bag.

Strap

The strap is made of two inch wide webbing with one of those sliding length adjustor things in the middle. One end has a large plastic clip (male), and the other end has a plastic lobster claw style clip. This can clip into any of the four D rings on the corners of the bag, though the bag is a lot easier to carry when it's clipped to one of the ones on the bottom.
It's a good strap, and I have no complaints about it. There isn't a padded section, but the strap is so wide that it doesn't need one.

Use

I got this bag right before a road trip, so I had plenty of opportunity to put it through its paces. Right after I got it, I loaded it with a 32 ounce water bottle and some other stuff and went on a long bike ride. The bag wasn't designed for this. Very often along the ride, the bag rotated from my back to hanging in front of me. This wasn't any fault of the bag, just that it only has one strap, and riding a bike means your torso is bent over.
Just for walking around though, it's great. It's light, it's small, and it has lots of pockets. I used it for carrying my portable charger, extra 18650s, cables, phone, seashells, a particularly interesting rock, park maps, and a water bottle. It fared well, without breaking in any way.
Here's what the bag looks like on my friend Nick.



Bottom line:
Pros

  • Cheap
  • Lots of pockets
  • Versatile

Cons

  • Construction isn't amazing
  • Waterproofing seems fragile

Thanks for reading my review! If you have any questions about this bag, I'd be more than happy to answer them.

Reviewer for ThorFire, Olight, Sofirn, and others.

More active on Reddit: /u/Virisenox_


 

"I go hard."

- Zeroair

"Don't quote me on that."

- Zeroair

Look i also have a review of the Wurkkos WK30 - Semi Picture Heavy

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This will be a WIP over the next few day or 2

First expressions are good, a 5000k LHD351D with 90 CRI nice flood and good color, a 620nm red, and in my opinion the best part a LG 395nm led, I know 365 is considered better but for my application (Rock hunting) they’re pretty much equal. It runs off of a 26650 battery which comes included, the one included is 5000mah, 18650 or 21700. Micro usb rechargeable on the flashlight. It has an illuminated button which shows battery life green is good red is low blinking red is very low, and on the UV mode it turns blue. The beams definitely are more floody from the shallow reflector. It feels nice in the hand there is no knurling, but there are things to hold on to. It is shorter than my other lights but still feels good. It has a lanyard hole and come with one which can even fit my large hands nicely. The UI for what it has to to is pretty good. 1 click for white click to change modes, Eco, 5lm, Low, 120lm, Mid, 400lm, High/Turbo, 1200lm 5min + 600lm it has memory. 1 click and hold brings it to white on Eco then you can go through normally. 2 click for red, click to change modes Low, 5lm, Mid, 60 lm, High, 200lm. You can also double click in red and white for strobe modes, white has stobe, SOS, and beacon. Red has strobe and police, alternates red and white. 3 click for UV click to change modes, Low, 100mw, Mid, 2000mw. In UV you can double click to enter white memory. 4 clicks for lock out, will blink twice when you try to turn it on, 4 click again to get out. Long press off.

Yay now its picture time

here’s the imgur link

https://imgur.com/a/5ra6blc

Beam shots, ill do it in about 7 hours from posting

Anything I forgot or you want done to this post, ask in the comments.

Wowtac A1S BSS, Sofirn C8T, Wurkkos WK30 - BLF LT1 soon
"You can't be scared of the dark, if there's no dark to be scared of"
-Me
Join the BLF Banggood 13th Anniversary group
https://banggood.app.link/1n352R3tuZ

Test/review of DMM Keysight U1282A

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DMM Keysight U1282A
DSC_7583
Keysight is on of the very large test and measure manufacturers, with anything from simple DMM to highly advanced and expensive measure equipment. This meter is one of their most advanced DMM’s. This series has two meters: U1281A & U1282A, the 81 has less bandwidth and are missing some functions.
Contents
    Display
    Functions
    Input
    Measurements
    Configuration
    Software on PC (Handheld Meter Logger Software)
    Software on Android (Mobile Meter)
    Software on Android (Meter Logger)
    Tear down
    Conclusion
    Notes


This is one of my own meters, i.e. I bought it a couple of years ago to use it, not review it. This means I have no photos of box or accessories.
Before the review I updated the firmware to the latest version.
DSC_7591DSC_7597
The meter is heavy and the tilting bale can hold it while the range switch is used or the buttons is pressed.
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The PC connection is here with an optical link. The cable was included with the meter.
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The two fuses.
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The rubber seal must be pulled up to replace the batteries.
Display
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The above picture shows all the segments on the display. There is two 5 digit displays and a bargraph. The number at the end of the bargraph shows the range.
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Standard turnon display shows the meters model number and the firmware version.
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Normal display with the measurement, unit, bargraph and temperature (The secondary display will show meter temperature when nothing else is selected).
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A secondary measurement is selected.
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NCV (Non contact voltage) or Vsense in Keysight terminology, the range button will select between “Hi” or “Lo”.
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Square wave out, both frequency and duty cycle can be adjusted.
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One item in configuration menu, all items is identified with a name written in the display.
Dual and single display functions (After / is small display):
mV+VAC: VAC/temp, VAC/Hz, dBm/VAC, dBV/VAC,
mV+VDC: VDC/temp, VDC/Hz, dBm/VDC, dBV/VDC
mV+VDC-AC mode: VAC/temp, VAC/freq, dBm/VAC, dBV/VAC, VAC/VDC
mV+VDC-AC+DC mode: VAC+VDC/temp, VAC+VDC/freq, dBm/VAC+VDC, dBV/VAC+VDC, VAC+VDC/VAC, VAC+VDC/VDC
uAmA DC: A/temp, A/freq, %4-20/A, %0-20/A
uAmA AC: A/temp, A/freq, A/ADC
uAmA AC+DC: A/temp, A/freq, A/AAC, A/ADC
A: A/temp, A/freq
A AC: A/temp, A/freq, A/ADC
A AC+DC: A/temp, A/freq, A/AAC, A/ADC
Frequency: freq/main, pulse-time/main, duty-cycle/main (Main will be V/A AC/DC/AC+DC depending on rotary switch and selection)
Freq out: duty-cycle/freq
Functions
DSC_7600
Buttons:


  • MaxMin: Select max/min function, pressing again will select between max/min/avg/actual, hold down to exit. If held down initially peak is selected, press to select between max/min.
  • Null: Store current value and show new values relative to this, pressing NULL while active will show the saved reference. Double press to cancel, hold down to activate NCV (Range switch is ignored).
  • Range:

    • Select manual range, hold down to exit
    • In ohm this will also select conductivity (nS) mode.
    • In continuity it is possible to change range and thereby threshold
    • In MHz frequency counter mode it will enable MHz mode that has higher upper frequency.
    • In temperature mode it will switch actual temperature compensation on/off.

  • Hz: Show frequency, duty-cycle or pulse-time on the large digit, the old value will often move to secondary display
  • light: Turn backlight on, hold down to change dual display mode. When showing duty-cycle or pulse time it will change polarity.
  • Shift (Orange): Select the ranges marked with orange on the rotary switch. Hold down to review saved values. In frequency output it will change between duty-cycle and time mode.
  • Hold: Hold and save the value, press again to start auto-hold for next stable value. Hold down to save a value or start logging (This depends on configuration).

Buttons in configuration:

  • Null: Digit increase
  • Dual: Digit decrease
  • Hz: Save change
  • ESC: Abandon change or exit configuration.
  • Hold: Next/previous menu item or digit left/right.

Rotary switch:

  • Off: Meter is turned off.
  • VAC: Measure VAC, use SHIFT to enable low pass filter and DUAL to show dB
  • mVAC: Measure mVAC, use SHIFT to enable low pass filter and DUAL to show dB
  • VDC: Measure VDC, VAC voltage and VAC+VDC voltage, use SHIFT to select.
  • mVDC: Measure mVDC, mVAC voltage and mVAC+mVDC voltage, use SHIFT to select.
  • ohm: Resistance and continuity, use RANGE to select nS
  • diode: Diode and frequency, use RANGE to enable high frequencies.
  • c: Capacitance and temperature.
  • uA mA: Low current, this meter will automatic switch from uA to mA, use SHIFT to select AC/AC+DC
  • A: High current, use SHIFT to select AC/AC+DC
  • out: Frequency out mode.

dB reference impedance can be adjusted from 1ohm to 9999ohm
Frequencies: 0.5, 1, 2, 5, 6, 10, 15, 20, 25, 30, 40, 50, 60, 75, 80, 100, 120, 150, 200, 240, 300, 400480, 600, 800, 1200, 1600, 2400, 4800
Duty cycle is changed with less than 1% steps, but not in round values.
Input
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  • A: High current, maximum current is 10A.
  • mAuA: The lower current ranges and frequency output
  • Rmt: Remove control with special probe, can be used to trigger HOLD and save or any other of the 7 buttons.
  • COM: The common terminal for all ranges.
  • xxx: All other ranges.

Measurements

  • Volt and frequency

    • Frequency input will trigger from -1.1V to 2.4V offset with 0.1Vrms input.
    • At 0.1Vrms frequency input range is from 0.4Hz to 800kHz
    • At 1Vrms frequency input range is from 0.4Hz to 1.8MHz
    • At 1Vrms frequency input range with MHz setting can reach 36MHz but shows to high above that.
    • According to the manual the frequency input is for signals below 1.8Vp, use voltage input for larger signals.
    • VDC input has a trigger point around 0.2V for frequency input.
    • VAC input ignores any DC offset for frequency input.
    • At 1Vrms input on VAC range, frequency range is from 0.4Hz to 650kHz
    • Duty cycle works from 10% to 90% at 10kHz with 1Vpp, precision is within 3.0 (Higher voltage do not help)
    • 1 VAC is 5% up at 70kHz (RMS will not work at the frequency).
    • 1 VAC with LPF (VFD) is 5% down at 500Hz.
    • Auto range works when doing min/max, but makes it very slow.
    • Auto range works in relative mode.
    • Max/min needs about 1900ms to capture a voltage and 400ms if manual range is selected.
    • Peak needs about 0.25ms to capture a voltage, it uses manual range.
    • Input impedance is 10Mohm on DC
    • Both AC inputs has a capacitor
    • Auto ranging is rather slow on this meter.
    • mV DC has 10Mohm or high input impedance depending on configuration to about 2V, then it drops to a few kOhm.
    • Rated overload protection is 1000Vrms, on mV it must be limited to 0.3A

  • Current

    • Overload protection in uA and mA: 0.44A/1000V 10×38mm fuse
    • The meter will auto range between uA and mA
    • Overload protection in A: 11A/1000V 10×38mm fuse
    • DCuA & mA can show percent of 0-20mA or 4-20mA range.
    • There is an audible warning and display shows “Lead” when using non current ranges without a probe (This warning is time limited).
    • There is an audible warning and display shows “uAErr” when using non current ranges with a probe in mAuA input (Buzzer is time limited).
    • There is an audible warning and display shows “A-Err” when using non current ranges with a probe in mAuA input (Buzzer is time limited).

  • Ohm, continuity, diode and capacitance

    • Ohm needs about 3.2s to measure 100ohm
    • Ohm is 1.1V open and 0.99mA shorted
    • Conductivity (nS) is 1.1V open and 0.2uA shorted
    • In conductivity it is best to keep some distance to the meter, especially when measuring Gigaohm.
    • Continuity is very fast (Below 10ms).
    • Continuity beeps when resistance is below 16ohm (3ohm in 60ohm range and 80ohm in 6kohm range).
    • Continuity is 2.2V open and 0.99mA shorted
    • Continuity allows range shift, this will change the threshold between 5ohm and 100kOhm.
    • Diode range uses 3.3V, max. display is 3.1V at 0.1mA, max. current is 1.5mA shorted
    • 10uF takes about 6.5 seconds to measure.
    • 11000uF takes about 50 seconds to measure.
    • Rated overload protection is 1000Vrms limited to 0.3A

  • Miscellaneous

    • Current consumption of meter is 2.5mA in DC, 5.3mA in AC and 11.3mA when high frequency counter is activated (42mA with backlight in AC)
    • Meter works down to 3.9V where it turns off, battery symbol starts flashing at 4.3V.
    • The meter reading is stable until it turns off.
    • Backlight fades with voltage, but is still usable when meter turns off
    • The meter usual need a couple of updates before the reading is fully correct.
    • The meter is very slow (Up to a few seconds) to change range.
    • Viewing angle is good
    • Display updates around 5 times/sec.
    • In high speed mode the display will update around 50 times/sec and the resolution is reduced to 6000 count.
    • Bargraph updates 40 times/sec
    • Backlight and automatic power can be configured.
    • Standard probes fits perfectly into sockets on meter.
    • To update software in the meter you must download and install a software updater program for this meter.
    • Weight is 703g without accessories, but with batteries.
    • Size is 220 × 101 × 58mm.

  • Probes



Freq600Hz50pct
Default frequency output of 600Hz at 50% duty cycle. The signal level is fine for 3.3V logic, but too low for 5V logic, especially CMOS.
Freq4800Hz039pct
Fastest output at 4800Hz and 0.39% duty cycle.
Freq4800Hz039pct1
A closer look at the pulse.
Freq05Hz50pct
Lowest frequency is 0.5Hz.
Freq600Hz50pct460ohm
Output loaded with 460ohm, this about halves the output level, i.e. output impedance is around 460ohm.
1uF
A look at the capacitance measurement waveform.
DMMInputVoltageSweepmVDCHighZ
DC input impedance in high-Z mode, the 10Mohm mode is similar, except maximum impedance is 10Mohm.
DMMInputVoltageSweepHz
Frequency input resistance, this is designed for fairly low signal level and is not the usual logic level input.
uAmAAutoRangeSpeed
How fast is auto ranging between uA and mA, here I start with zero current and turned 100mA on from a 1V supply.
It takes 3 seconds to auto range, this means that a micro processor that has a pulsed current consumption most likely would reset, i.e. manual ranging must be used.
uAmAAutoRangeSpeed2
Next I start with zero current and turned 400mA on from a 9V supply.
With higher voltage the protection kicks in and limits the voltage and current in the sense resistor, the auto ranging is also slightly faster.
DMMschema
Runtime is based on AC range, i.e. 5.3mA power consumption, Keysight uses DC in their specifications.
Configuration
There is many configuration options on this meter:

  • AutoHold: Number of counts the reading must go outside to rearm autohold and restart smooth.
  • Time: Enable/disable smooth mode and smooth mode time.
  • Auto power off time: How many minutes before meter powers off, auto power off can also be disabled.
  • Backlight time: How many seconds before backlight turns off, auto off can also be disabled.
  • Logging type: Select between manual, auto or interval logging.
  • Time: Sample interval when logging.
  • dBm reference: Can be set from 1ohm to 9999ohm
  • Thermocouple type: Either K or J
  • Temperature unit: Either Celsius or Fahrenheit.
  • Beep frequency: Select between some frequencies or off.
  • Startup sound: Select between beep, melody or off.
  • Alert: Define if warning uses beeper and/or led or nothing
  • Battery type: Select between primary (Alkaline) or secondary (NiMH) for more precise battery meter.
  • Factory default: Reset to factory default.
  • Remote button: Define function for remote button, can be mapped to any of the 7 buttons.
  • Resolution: Select between 60000 or 6000 count display
  • Update speed: 5 or 40 updated each second, the fast speed means 6000 count display.
  • Input impedance: Select 10Mohm or high for mV ranges.
  • LPF: Select default with or without LPF, this also supports LPF on DC.

Software on PC (Handheld Meter Logger Software)


  • Software is free to download and listed as free software on Keysight.
  • In addition to the software there is also installed License manager, License service and Agilent Host Processor Platform.
  • Report generator in software is fairly limited, it only accepts 200 samples.
  • It is only possible to generate a word or PDF report if Word or a PDF viewer is installed.
  • The software ignores the secondary display and value.
  • On my laptop the window is covering the laptops battery indicator.

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The USB to IR cable.
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The IR adapter connected to the meter.
1s
It took some time to install the software.
2
And during the install I got this message, I wonder why it could be show this at the start of the install.
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First question when starting the application
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During startup the software shows this logo, notice the date. It will check for new versions each time, with a 4 year old software this is a bit much.
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Lets check the licensing, it do not say anything about free here and the “Lear More” shows a Keysight login, not very helpful.
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The program has a couple of settings, the voice out function will read the displayed value at regular time intervals, not when the value change.
6s
Starting the program shows a nearly empty screen, sometimes it will auto connect to a meter.
7s
A fairly generic meter box that is used to for connecting to the meter.
5s
When connected this is the main screen.
8s
It is possible to change some settings on the meter from here. Software will update if ranges are changed on the meter.
10s
A bit of logging, the first part was with the meter in auto range, the last part of the curve used manual range and I got a much smoother curve.
The scale is not very nice, I would have preferred a scale with 15, 10, 5, 0, -5, -10, -15.
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Data can be viewed as a table on multiple pages.
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Another window will show the actual value on the meter, but the secondary display is ignored.
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Report generator, with 3 different reports, but they are basically the same.
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Selecting data to include in report, maximum is 200 data points.
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In the chart interface it is possible to enable two cursors to measure with.
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A chart saved from the chart window, again the scale is bad.
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The report format, either chart or table can be missing, depending on format selected. The table format may be useful for single log points, but not when logging continuous, I do not need fill time, function and unit for each line. I would have preferred a much more compact format.
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When logging a XML file is automatically saved, the format is not exactly compact.
log
The CSV file is more to the point and except for the top it is a standard CSV file in US format.
Software on Android (Mobile Meter)


  • This software can be downloaded from Google Play store.
  • With a U1117A/U1177A Bluetooth adapter it is possible to connect to a phone.
  • Keysight do not support their mobile software “Keysight Mobile Meter” anymore
  • App has copyright 2015 and is version 2.2.0

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The meter has no build in Bluetooth, but requires an external adapter.
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It is not the most discrete solution when mounted on the meter.
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When starting I am warned that the software is unsupported, I could not download the new app from Google. I had to connect the adapter using Andriod Bluetooth, then I could connect here.
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The readout do not use much screen estate.
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Turning the phone over improved the display size.
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I have to press the green button to start scanning, the first value is fetched when connecting, but not updated.
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The SHIFT modes on the meter can be controlled from the app and like the PC application the secondary display is ignored.
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It is possible to share the single value.
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The phone support reading the value at fixed intervals.
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It is possible to connect up to 3 meters.
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Confirmation when quitting the application, just leaving the application will not stop it and if reading is enabled it will continue.
Software on Android (Meter Logger)


  • This software can be downloaded from keysight.com and must be manually installed on the phone (I could not find it on Google play).
  • With a U1117A/U1177A Bluetooth adapter it is possible to connect to a phone.
  • App has copyright 2017 and is version 3.1
  • With the U1117A I got about 5 meter indoor range through a thick wall, no other Bluetooth meter has done that.
  • It recovered easy from breaks in communication.

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The meter has no build in Bluetooth, but requires an external adapter.
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It is not the most discrete solution when mounted on the meter.
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With this app there is both a value and a curve and either of them can fill the screen.
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The app supports up to 3 meters.
2s
8s
9s
If I flip the phone it works the same way and the layout is adjusted.
3s4s5s6s
There is a lot of configuration. The voice output is not very useful when the phone uses a “,” as decimal comma, because the app use a “.” and it is not spoken.
11s12s
In addition to the chart it is also possible to get a table or min/max/avg values from the recorded data.
13s
There is a local database to keep track of recorded data.
14s
And it can be shared, tried with email and it worked fine.
log
The data is a US CSV format, but I wonder why I need information about meter and Bluetooth adapter on each line.
Tear down
DSC_7629
I had to remove 6 screws to open the meter.
DSC_7630
The buzzer is in the back cover of the meter, connected with thin wires and a small connector.
DSC_7632
There is a lot of shields moulded into the back cover.
DSC_7633
DSC_7634
There is some shielding beside the voltage input resistor, that already is in a metal box.
A001s
The circuit board was a bit tricky to get out, I had to unhook four connections.
DSC_7635
Then remove 5 screws and four nuts.
DSC_7636
DSC_7638
A view of all the plastic shields moulded into the enclosure.
DSC_7639
DSC_7640
DSC_7641
The LCD display was only mounted with one screw.
DSC_7642
On this side is the main processor (U27: D78F0485: Renesas 78K0/LF3, 8bit, 60kB ROM, 2KB RAM, LCD driver), next to two shift registers outputs (U18 & U19: LV595A). At the input terminals are some diodes (D1..D4), half the uAmA shunt protection and two resistors (R137 & R138: 2×2.5Mohm) protection resistor for the terminal sense. The circuit is the uAmA current sense circuit.
The range switch has a large distance for the two outer rings (on both sides), they are used to switch the input terminal and can have high voltage.
DSC_7654
The large resistor (R106: 0.499ohm), this is lower than normal. There is a OpAmp (U24: AEJY: MAX9912 Dual RR OpAmp), the other chip (U15: S48) may also be an OpAmp. The uA shunt and range switching transistor is on the other side.
DSC_7643
DSC_7644DSC_7646
DSC_7645
DSC_7647
At the common terminal is four mode diodes (D5..D8) for uAmA protection and a PTC (RT5) protection for the remote switch.
The uAmA circuit is opposite the circuit on the other side, but I am a bit puzzled about it. The two transistors (Q1 & Q2: Marked X07V / 1F) can bypass this circuit and only leave the resistor on the other side active, next there is two resistors (R15: 499ohm & R16 56ohm) where the R15 can be bypassed with another set of transistors (Q3 & Q9: Marked X07V / 1F), but I did never see a 500ohm impedance when measuring current (I checked DC, AC and AC+DC).
The voltage input has two paths with MOVs (RT1 & RT2) and resistors (R1 & R2: Measures about 270ohm), then a capacitor for AC (C4: 100nF 630V) and a shielded input resistors on a ceramic substrate (R3) going directly to the main multimeter IC (U5: HY3131). There is no MOV’s, but instead spark gabs (VR1 & VR2) on the other side of the circuit board.
I do not see any transistor pairs, instead the protection for ohms, frequency, temperature, etc. is width diodes (D9, D10, D11, D12, D13, D22, ZD3, ZD4) in these ranges (The two path from input arrives at BD2 and BD4).
The chip (U20: S/6B) is probably the frequency output amplifier, it has 600ohm from pin 8 to the uAmA output in frequency output mode. This resistance is somewhere in the uAmA circuit.
In addition to the main multimeter IC there is a RMS converter (U13: AD8436A) a couple of MUX’es. The meter has memory for 10100 readings (Probably: U28 marked ATNLH4482FC).
To get enough sound from the buzzer there is an inductor (L1) next to the buzzer connector. The inductor is glued in place.
DSC_7653DSC_7655
More details.
DSC_7648
DSC_7649DSC_7651
DSC_7650
Conclusion
This meter has good input protection.
There is basically everything in ranges and functions, if you can find it, some ranges/functions needs the use of SHIFT, RANGE and DUAL and there is no obvious hints on the meter about it. Usage of the DUAL function is also a bit slow with up to 5 long pressed to get a specific readout (2xSHIFT + 5xDUAL to get AC+DC with DC in secondary display). The meter measures fairly fast, but any range or mode changes is very slow.
The complete lack of support for the secondary display in all the software limits some of the functionality.
If you want a meter that has a very wide selection of ranges and functions and is patient this meter is a good candidate.
Notes
I have used this meter for logging with my own software, it is fine for that, but replacing batteries are a bit of a hassle.
How do I review a DMM
More DMM reviews
Multimeter design, this explains a lot more about DMM’s than my tear-downs

My website with reviews of many chargers and batteries (More than 1000): https://lygte-info.dk/

Multimeter guide

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Multimeter guide
DSC_4898
This guide is a simple (but long) guide for many details on multimeters, it do not tell how to make measurements, but explains about the different function on the multimeter. This guide has lot of pictures, each showing a small part of a multimeter to illustrate the functions and differences between meters. Most of the article is about measurement function, but at the end I will also look at a few physical aspects on the meter.
This guide can be very useful to make a list of functions you want in your next multimeter.
Contents
    Minimum, maximum and average of a value
    Peak or fast minimum, maximum
    Freezing the display
    Manual selecting range
    Selecting function
    Background light and flashlight
    Frequency and duty cycle
    Relative measurements
    Auto power off, can it be disabled?
    Dual or triple display
    Bargraph, sometimes a fast estimate of value
    Voltage measurement
    Current measurement
    Ohm, continuity, diode and capacity measurement
    Temperature measurement
    Non contact voltage or electric field detection
    Low-Z, getting rid of ghost voltages
    Low pass filter for variable frequency drives
    Turning the meter on or off
    Input terminals
    Tilting bale or kickstand
    Batteries and fuses
    Probe holders, need an extra hand
    Hanger


Minimum, maximum and average of a value
DSC_4900minmaxDSC_4902minmaxDSC_4903minmaxDSC_4904minmaxDSC_4905minmaxDSC_4906minmax
Many multimeters have a function to record minimum and maximum value, it is fairly slow (0.1 to 1 second), this is necessary to work for AC and not record random noise pulses. This function will usual work on most ranges on the multimeter, except capacity.
Depending on meter is may be possible to show actual value while recording minimum and maximum. Some of the better meters will also calculate a average while recording minimum and maximum. Meters with dual or triple display may use the extra display(s) for some of this.
To activate the function press the button, more presses on the button will change between minimum/maximum/average/actual depending on the meter. To end recording hold down the button. This function will nearly always disable auto ranging, i.e. remember to manually select the correct range before starting min/max collection.
Most brands agree on calling this function something with min/max or max/min, but Brymen desided to call it REC
DSC_4911minmaxDSC_4912minmax As long as MAXMINAVG is displayed, the display will show the actual value. When only one of the indicators is displayed, it is that value.
DSC_4913minmaxDSC_4922minmax Other meters do also use that notation.
DSC_4919minmax This meter is using the secondary display to show minimum and maximum values.
Peak or fast minimum, maximum
DSC_4908peakDSC_4918peakDSC_4921peakDSC_4925peakDSC_4917peak
This function can record fast transient, like current while a capacitor charges up (If it is supported in current ranges). It often need around 1ms (0.001s) pulse to record, but it varies with meter. This is fast enough to record maximum and minimum in a mains power sinewave. The function may only be supported in AC modes, but that is no problem because it usual records both maximum and minimum (I have seen exceptions to this). This function will nearly always disable auto ranging, i.e. remember to manually select the correct range.
This function can not replace a min/max, the fast capture means it is much more susceptible to noise and transients.
DSC_4935peak A PEAK label is added to the display when recording peak values.
DSC_4951peak This meter do not have a special peak indicator but uses the Hold indicator together with min/max.
DSC_4952peak Here a P is added before the min/max labels and the value is shown on the secondary display.
DSC_4953peak Brymen uses CREST instead of peak and add a C to min/max.
Freezing the display
DSC_4900holdDSC_4902holdDSC_4903holdDSC_4904holdDSC_4907hold
This function freezes the the display, this can be used to move the meter to a better place for reading the value or writing the value down. Just about any meter has this not very useful function.
One press will freeze the display, next press will resume updating again.
DSC_4920hold
Some meters has a auto-hold or touch-hold or something like that, it will freeze the display when measuring a stable value. This makes it possible to concentrate on the probe and when the meter beeps, remove the probes and read the meter. No button presses is required when doing this.
DSC_4955holdDSC_4956holdDSC_4958hold Usual one of these 3 indicators are used to show that the display is frozen.
Manual selecting range
DSC_4900rangeDSC_4902rangeDSC_4905range
On many auto-ranging multimeters it is also possible to manually select range, sometimes it is even required for a specific ranges (Like mV AC).
MIN/MAX, PEAK and REL will usual select manual ranging, but not on all multimeters. When canceling the function the meter will usual return to automatic ranging again.
Press the button once to lock the current range, press again to step through the different ranges, actual range can usual be seen on the point. Hold the button down to get back to auto-ranging.
This is sometimes used with varing values to avoid the meter changes range all the time. If a lot of resistors or capacitors with about same value has to be checked, manually selecting range will make the meter faster.
DSC_4911autoDSC_4914autoDSC_4915auto Usual there is a AUTO text somewhere on the display when using automatic ranging.
DSC_4916autoDSC_4919auto The MANUAL text is not always used.
Selecting function
DSC_4900selectDSC_4902selectDSC_4903selectDSC_4904selectDSC_4907selectDSC_4933select
DSC_5036DSC_5037
On most multimeters there are more than one function for each rotary switch position, this button is used to select between them or at least some of them.
The color coding of the button often match the some color coding for the markings around the rotary switch.
Hz and duty cycle is sometimes select with this button sometimes with a Hz button.
In this document I will call the button SELECT.
DSC_4900select1 When the blue switch is pressed the blue function is selected.
DSC_4902select1DSC_4902select2 Here it is yellow and there are arrows to help with the sequence.
DSC_4903select1DSC_4903select2 Not everybody believes in arrows. This meters starts in AC mode, the = is orange, i.e. SEL must be pressed to select it.
DSC_4904select1DSC_4904select2 Here it is not possible to see what initial selection is.
DSC_4907select1DSC_4907select2 Here it is not even possible to see what the SELECT button do (Southwire had to be different).
Each press will move to the next function for that rotary switch position, usual moving the rotary switch or turning the meter off will reset to the initial function again (Brymen and a few other remembers last selection).
Background light and flashlight
DSC_4902lightDSC_4904lightDSC_4907light
Many multimeters have a light that can illuminate the display, sadly it is often implemented in a way that makes it very awkward to use. On many of the cheaper multimeter it is only on for 15 seconds, then it turns off automatically and it requires a few seconds to turn it on. A few meters uses a light sensor to turn the background light on when it is dark.
The first light button requires a single press to turn the light on, the two next must be held down.
DSC_4900light The background light on this multimeter works different: usual the background will turn on due to a light sensor near the display, i.e. when it is dark around the display the background light turns on. The button disables this function and the background light will stay off, until the meter has been turned off.
DSC_4900flightDSC_4907flight
Some lights has a build in flashlight, that may be able to illuminate the place you are measuring (May require an extra person to hold the meter). This flashlight either has its own button or it turns on together with the backlight.
DSC_5066DSC_5067
DSC_5068DSC_5069
Flashlight placement is either top or back of the multimeter.
Frequency and duty cycle
DSC_4900hzDSC_4902hzDSC_4906hz
The SELECT button may select this, but often an extra button is used for selecing frequency and duty cycle measurements.
It varies where this button can be used, but it is in one or more of these ranges:


  • V AC – This is nearly always supported.
  • V DC
  • mV AC – If the meter is missing a Hz mode, this is usual the range with support for the highest frequencies.
  • mV DC
  • Hz – In the Hz mode it is often the Hz button that select duty cycle, not the SELECT button.
  • uA AC
  • uA DC
  • mA AC
  • mA DC
  • A AC
  • A DC

The meter may or may not support showing frequency for DC pulses (i.e. pulses that do not cross the zero line) and this may not be releated to support for frequency in DC ranges. Adding a capacitor in series with the multimeter or connecting minus on the multimeter to a voltage a bit above ground will make it possible to handle this and measure duty cycle at drive signal levels (0-3V, 0-5V, 0-12V etc.).
Pressing the button will select Hz, next press duty cycle (Not all meters have duty cycle) and third press back to the main function again.
The Hz selection on the rotary switch will usually be designed for low voltage and often support fairly high frequencies (i.e. MHz). The input impedance will often drop to low kOhm above a few volts.
Relative measurements
DSC_4900relDSC_4902relDSC_4905relDSC_4917rel
This is a very common function, it is used to “null” out a value and show measurement relative to that. Values to null can be the ohm with shorted probes, but it could also be a unloaded voltage, then the meter will only show the voltage drop when load is applied.
Meters with dual display may show the stored value or the full measured value on one of the displays.
This function will often change to manual ranging on the meter.
Auto power off, can it be disabled?
DSC_4909apoDSC_4910apoDSC_4914apoDSC_4924apo
Nearly all meters will automatic turn power off after some time, sometimes they are smart and disables it when measuring a value or when running max/min function.
If the meter shows that auto power off is active, it may have a function to disable it. This is usual done by holding one of the buttons down while the meter is turned on (The button must be held down a few seconds). If the symbol is not shown, then the function is disabled.
Dual or triple display
DSC_4938dual
Some meters can show more than one value at a time. On some meters you have to use the SELECT or a special DUAL button to select reading for the secondary display, but in many cases it is automatic.
DSC_4934dual This is the simple dual display, it can only show frequency in AC mode. Some meters only support this!
DSC_4928dual This meter can also show voltage and dB
DSC_4926dual Here is both DC and AC voltage shown at the same time.
DSC_4930dual Voltage AC and AC+DC, i.e. sqrt(sqr(AC)+sqr(DC))
DSC_4931dual This triple display is not used for the normal measurements, the two top numbers are always %RH and temperature.
DSC_4919dual Using the meter in min/max mode is a nice feature, but you have to live with the smaller digits in the secondary display.
DSC_4936dual This is a advanced multimeter with triple display, here used to measure power while showing both voltage and current.
DSC_4937dual With min/max it will show the stored value, together with the time. Here the maximum value was a overload.
Bargraph, sometimes a fast estimate of value
Meters may have a line at the bottom that shows the value, on better meters this line will update very fast. Some meters cheats with the bargraph and grouped segments, i.e. it looks like it has many segments, but they turned on/off in groups reducing the real resolution.
DSC_4939bar
DSC_4940bar This bargraph has many segments, i.e. better precision, but it is very close to the bottom of the display, i.e. difficult to see from a low angle.
DSC_4943bar
DSC_4944bar I am measuring 3V, but the bargraph shows up to 30, this bargraph do not adjust the scale (This is very common).
Voltage measurement
Voltage measurement can cover from one to four or more position on the range switch, it includes the normal voltage measurement, but also some special functions.

  • V DC – DC voltage up to maximum voltage supported by the meter, that is usual from 600V to 1000V
  • V AC – AC voltage up to maximum voltage supported by the meter, that is usual from 600V to 1000V. This may be lower than DC voltage, due to peak voltage being 1.4 times higher than display reading.
  • V AC VFD/LowZ – AC voltage with some special function activated, see below.
  • mV DC – DC voltage below 1 volt, sometimes this is a separate range, sometimes it is part of the V DC range.
  • mV AC – AC voltage below 1 volt, sometimes this is a separate range, sometimes it is part of the V DC range. When part of V AC it may require manual range selection to select it.

In addition to the standard voltage, it might be possible to select some extra function with SELECT or Hz buttons.

  • AC+DC – Combined rms voltage for AC and DC
  • Frequency – Frequency and duty cycle
  • Low pass filter (LPF) – Low pass filter, used on variable frequency drives (VFD’s) to remove high frequencies.
  • Temperature – A thermocoupler is very low voltage and the selection may be placed on the mV DC range.

DSC_4959V This meter have four voltage selections, each with some extra options.
DSC_4961V Here is only DC/AC and a frequency selection for AC.
DSC_4962V This meter has V and mV, AC/DC is done with SELECT
DSC_4964V 3 selections is fairly normal, but here mV is missing AC
DSC_4966V Only one selection for everything, use SELECT to change between AC/DC, it may require manual ranging RANGE to select mV, if the meter supports it. This meter starts in AC (AC symbol is white, DC symbol is orange).
DSC_4967V 3 selections with both AC and DC in the mV range. The temperature selection is also in the mV DC range. Use SELECT to select between AC/DC and temperature in mV. The Hz button is used for frequency. Frequency is only supported for AC.
DSC_4968V Again 3 selection, this time the mV input is also used for frequency and duty cycle, because it often has the highest bandwidth. Use SELECT to select between AC/DC in mV. The Hz button is used for frequency.
DSC_4969V A standard 3 selection meter, use SELECT to select between AC/DC in mV.
DSC_4971V The standard 3 selection meter, this meter do not have a Hz button and all selection are done with SELECT (That is yellow and unmarked).
Current measurement
A good multimeter has 6 AC/DC current ranges, two uA, two mA and two A. This usual requires two or 3 positions on the range switch (mA uA requires a switch, A uses another terminal and do not need a extra switch position). Good meters will also have some way to warn the users if they select voltage with probes connected to some current range, to avoid a blown fuse.
Just because the meter has a A on the range switch do not means it has two A ranges, some meters only has the 10A/20A range, not the xA range.
DSC_4961A The typically 3 positions, use SELECT to change between AC/DC.
DSC_4964A Again 3 positions, use SELECT to change between AC/DC.
DSC_4972A This meter do not have the two uA ranges, use SELECT to change between AC/DC and frequency (This meter do not have a Hz button).
DSC_4973A On this meter uA and mA is on the same position, this must mean it has electronic selection between them (Not very common). Use SELECT to change between AC/DC.
DSC_4974A mA and A is combined and the meter uses the input terminal to select the correct range. Use SELECT to change between AC/DC, frequency and percent of 4-20mA (Standard for industrial sensors).
DSC_4975A This meter is missing the mA range.
DSC_4977A A standard 3 selection meter, the 10A marking probably means it is missing the low A range.
DSC_4978A A one selection meter, this does not mean it is missing uA and mA, this meter can electronically select from uA over mA to 10A.


Lets also take a look at the input terminals for current. Usual there is on for A and one for uA and mA, but a few meters move the uA and mA to the voltage input, this can be problematic due to the increased risk of measuring volt on a current range.
DSC_4980A A classical current input layout with one A socket and one uA mA socket.
DSC_4982A The terminals are not always on a line, but it is the standard layout.
DSC_4983A Even in a square.
DSC_4985A In a row and this meter can warn about probes in the wrong terminals.
DSC_4981A Here is a more problematic layout, uA and mA is on the volt input, this increases the risk of blowing a fuse.
DSC_4976A On this meter uA is on the volt input and has electronic protection, i.e. no blow fuse if mains voltage is connected to the uA range.
DSC_4984A On this meter it is not even possible to have a probe in the A input when selecting a voltage range. The same terminal is used for uA, mA and A (This meter uses electronic selection).
Ohm, continuity, diode and capacity measurement
These four function has one thing in common: The meter must supply some current to do the measurement.
This can be up to about 3V and 2mA, but will often be considerable lower, depending on function. Bench meters may use up to 10V and a single multimeter has a 15V diode mode.

  • Ohm – Measuring resistance, lowest range may have a resolution from 1ohm down to 0.001ohm (1mOhm), depending on meter, highest range usual goes into the Megaohm, sometimes up to more than 50Mohm. A few meters support up to Gohm, but that is usual measured as ns (nano siemens: 1000000000/ohm).
  • Continuity – Audible resistance check, this range uses one of the low ohm ranges (Not always the lowest and test current/voltage may be slightly different) and will sound a buzzer when the resistance is low (Often below 50ohm, but varies with meter and may even be selectable). In addition to the buzzer some meters may also flash a light when continuity is detected.
    This is useful to trace wires, because you do not have to check the display, but can use the sound and a good continuity mode is very fast. This means you can pull the probe across a couple of connection and the beep will sound when you hit one with a matching connection.
  • Diode – Test forward voltage of a diode, some meters uses up to 3 volt and can test white leds, others only use 1 volt and cannot test any leds only regular diodes. If working with white leds a meter that can show 3V in diode mode is very useful.
  • Capacity – Measure capacitors, but the low and high end varies significantly depending on meter.


  • ohm DSC_4989ohmDSC_4994ohmDSC_4995ohm
    The nS is a special ohm mode that measures 1000000000/ohm and can be used for very high resistance.
  • Continuity DSC_4986ohmDSC_4990ohm
  • Diode DSC_4988ohmDSC_4991ohmDSC_4992ohm
    It looks like somebody forgot the diode symbol for the second one.
  • Capacity DSC_4987ohmDSC_4993ohm
    It will be nano (n), micro (u) and sometimes milli (m) farad that is shown as unit.



DSC_4959ohm This meter uses 3 selections and can obvious disable current generation electronically and use the ranges for other purpose also.
DSC_4961ohm Here all the ranges are collection in one position and SELECT must be used to select the desired one.
DSC_4962ohm Again 3 selection, but no alternate functions.
DSC_4964ohm Two selections.
DSC_4966ohm Two selections.
DSC_4967ohm One selection.
DSC_4968ohm Two selections.
DSC_4969ohm Two selection, this time with a nicely marked sequency for ohm->continuity->diode.
DSC_4971ohm Two selection.
Temperature measurement
DSC_5006DSC_5008DSC_5010DSC_5012DSC_5014DSC_5016
Many multimeters can use an external temperature sensor called a thermocoupler. This is a very simple temperature sensor that can cover a wide temperature range, but has a fairly low signal level.
A few meters can handle two thermocouplers at the same time and may be able to show the difference between them, this can be very useful when working with ventilations and airconditions systems.
The thermocoupler is fairly linear for temperature above about -40°C, for this reason many meter either has a lower limit around this or shows large errors at lower temperatures. There is also meters that has compensation and will show correct at lower temperatures.
DSC_5007 Usual a single thermocoupler is connected to the volt input terminal.
DSC_5013 Volt input
DSC_5015 And volt input.
DSC_5017 But somebody always has to be different, here it is the mA input.
DSC_5011 With two sensors it is the volt and mA input, because they are both handled by the range switch.
DSC_5009 To get four terminals, the A input is basically connected to COM at low currents (0.01ohm resistor and fuse) and can also be used for a second thermocoupler ground.
Non contact voltage or electric field detection
DSC_5020DSC_5023DSC_5018DSC_5019DSC_5026
This function can be used to check for mains voltage without using probes, just by holding the meter near to the wires, at least in theory. The sensitivity depends on how you hold the meter and a wet surface or wire will block for this function.
Often both buzzer and a led will be used to notify about a electric field in addition to the display.
The function can be useful for checking what wire is live or in some cases tracking a live wire, just never assume that everything is safe, just because the NCV do not show anything.
The function is usual called NCV and shown as EF on the display, but as can be seen above the selector can also be named EF or even Vsense.
DSC_5021 Many meters use the letters EF (Electric Field) in the display when range is select and no field is detected.
DSC_5022 Indication is usually with 1 to 4 bars on the display, depending on the strength of the electric field.
DSC_5028 This meter uses LoSE for low sensitivity and shows the detected field strength on the bargraph.
DSC_5029 A press on the RANGE button and the text is HiSE for High sensitivity.
Low-Z, getting rid of ghost voltages
DSC_4996DSC_5000DSC_5003DSC_5004DSC_5005
This function is mostly for mains work. Due to the high input impedance (10Mohm) of multimeters two mains wires in a cable or in a pipe will both show voltage when one has voltage and the other is unconnected. This is because there is some capacity between the wires and a small current will leak. Using the Low-Z mode on a meter will put enough load on the wire to show these leaks as safe voltages, but any real voltage (I.e. with enough current to drive loads) will still be measureable.
This function will usual switch the meter to the highest voltage range and sometimes to AC mode. It is often implemented as a PTC, that may be down to about 2kOhm when cold and will increase to maybe 100kOhm very fast when mains voltage is applied. This function may not work with low voltages.
The 400kOhm is slightly different, it simply connect a resistor across the voltage input when held down and do not care about what range is selected.
Most of the time the display will be in V AC mode, but here are a few exceptions:
DSC_5001 This meter will automatically detect AC/DC voltage.
DSC_5002 Another Low-Z mode that will handle both AC and DC.
Low pass filter for variable frequency drives
DSC_5030DSC_5031DSC_5034DSC_5038
When measuring on motor drives, also called variable frequency drives (VFD) the voltage will contain many harmonic frequencies. To avoid they skew the measurement some meters has a function to filter higher frequencies out. This is usual only required on high end meters, other meters do not have enough bandwidth in the first place, i.e. there is a low pass filter always active.
The function is usual activated with the SELECT button and will show a small icon in the display:
DSC_5032DSC_5033DSC_5035DSC_5039
Turning the meter on or off
All meters needs a power switch, usual it is on the range switch, but a few meters use a button, usual an electronic switch. Neither soft buttons or auto power off will usual not turn the meter fully off, but the current may be negligible.
DSC_5108DSC_5109DSC_5110
The most common off location is with the rotary switch all the way to the left.
DSC_5107DSC_5103
If the meters has a Low-Z mode it will often be placed below the off position, this makes it fast to select this position when turning the meter on.
DSC_5106
Some meters has a off at both ends of the range switch, this can reduce the wear on the range switch if the meter is mostly used for current.
DSC_5104DSC_5112
Another way to do that is to place off at the center of the range switch. This will also mean less turning of the switch to select range.
DSC_5105DSC_5111
A few meters use a button to turn on off, for better meters it is a electronic switch.
Input terminals
DSC_5041DSC_5040
Usual multimeters have the terminals placed in a standard way, like shown above, but there are exceptions.
DSC_5042DSC_5043
They do not need to be on a line.
DSC_5046
Some multimeters can electronically switch current ranges from uA to A and only need one current terminal. The voltage and current inputs are also swapped on this meter.
DSC_5044DSC_5045
Then there are meters with less current ranges.
DSC_5047
Here the common and voltage input are swapped and the capacity terminals are mA and V input.
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This looks standard, but the distance between COM and voltage input is not 19mm, but smaller. This means modules to plug into multimeters will not fit.
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There is also a point about how well standard probes fits into the terminals. The above picture shows a fully inserted probe.
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On this small multimeter the sockets are not deep enough to fully insert the standard probe.
The probes supplied with the meter will go fully into the socket.
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On this multimeter there is some probe detection that prevents fully inserting the standard probe.
The probes supplied with the meter will go fully into the socket.
Tilting bale or kickstand
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Sometimes it is nice to get a bit of angle on the multimeter, instead of having it lying flat.
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Most meters have a tilting bale or kickstand on the back, this one with rubber tips, that makes the meter more stable when using it.
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Some meters have more positions for the kickstand, making it possible to select the best angle or even use it to hang the meter somewhere.
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Another way to make more angles possible.
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The kickstand can be part of the multimeter or part of the cover.
Batteries and fuses
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All multimeters needs batteries and most also needs fuses. The batteries are usual 9V, AA or AAA batteries, for very small meters coin or button cells may be used. A single 9V or from two to 6 AA/AAA batteries, battery lifetime is from below 100 hours to above 1000 hours depending on the meter and battery.
The fuses need for high current and voltage are HRC (High Rupture Capacity) fuses that can break many thousand ampere. These fuses are ceramic (or better) and is filled with sand. The large DMM44 fuse is of that type.
The glas fuse and small ceramic fuse can probably handle normal mains voltage after a breaker or fuse and are basically for hobby meters.
And then there are the fuses in between, ceramic and hopefully filled with sand.
It is always a good idea to check if the fuses are rated for at least the same voltage as the meter, they must be able to break the circuit if you put the probes in ampere and starts measuring volt. This is the worst case scenario and can be fatal if the fuse cannot break the current in a high current situation.
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A typical meter, one screw and there is battery access, but two more screws must be removed before there is access to the fuses.
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One more with this two level access.
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This one is smarter, here is two different lids, one for batteries and one for fuses.
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This meter is a bit difficult, before the battery can be replaced the cover must be removed and again the meter must be opened to replace fuses.
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Here the battery is easy to replace, but for fuses the rubber cover must be removed and the meter opened.
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Fluke is using a single screw that must only be turned half a turn with a coin and there is access to both batteries and fuses. This meter is a high end meter that uses a lot of power.
Probe holders, need an extra hand
Many multimeters have probe holders build into the body, they can be used when storing the meter in a toolbag, but also when using the meter.
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I have never found a good way to pack the wires.
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Need to hold two probes and a multimeter, easy with one of the probe holders.
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Sometimes you can be lucky and probe wire length match exactly with the probes in the holders.
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This meter is too short the sharp end of the probe is poking out.
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But the flashlight is very useful in dark places and aimed the same was as a probe in the holder.
Hanger
Many meters has a way to hang them, either from a hook/nail/screw or on some metal.
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A lot of meters has this kind of holes on the back, it somtimes be used to hand the meter on a hook/nail/screw, but it can also be used with a magnetic hanger.
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This strap is a magnetic hanger, at one end is a powerful magnet with plastic coating.
Sometimes meters will not fit a standard strap, but only a brand specific magnetic hanger.
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Here I have mounted it on a multimeter
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And the meter can hang on my fridge, metal shelves, electric distribution board in metal, machines. The other meter included the magnetic hanger.
I have also seen a few meters with a magnet build into the back of the meter.
Other articles about multimeters
Multimeter and component testing
Multimeter probes
Multimeter and voltage measurements
Multimeter and pulsed DC current (PWM)
Tolerance specifications for multimeters
Clamp meters magnetization, demagnetization and offset
Multimeters and current measurements
Multimeters and thermocouples
Multimeter design
Multimeter protection and safety
Multimeter reviews
Multimeter selection table

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Test/review of DMM Mustool MDS8207

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DMM Mustool MDS8207
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This is the latest incarnation (2019) of the Mustool DMM that can also show waveforms.
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I got the meter in a cardboard box with specifications on it.
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It included the DMM, a pair of probes, a thermocoupler, a bag and a manual.
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The probes include tip protectors, but they protect the full top and are not for CATIII rating.
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The plug is fully shrouded, but is slightly smaller than standard probe plug size.
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The thermocoupler is with a standard 19mm plug.
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The bag with the thermocoupler did also include some specifications for it:


  • Type: K
  • Range: -50°C to 204°C
  • Below 400°C it is +/2.5°C or 0/-0.75%    How can accuracy be rated to 400°C when probe is rated for 204°C?
  • Suitable for air or gas not liquid

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Both meter and tilting bale is smooth, this makes it difficult to use the meter one handed.
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The bag can fit both meter and probes, but feels a bit tight when doing it (Meter fits easily in it).
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The battery lid do not use a screws.
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The graphic on the the battery lid specifies how to install the batteries.
Display
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The power on screen shows the status for auto power on and sound, hold down F1 and/or F4 during power on to temporary change values.
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Typical display with range, unit and value. The bottom is the function of the soft keys (F1..F4)
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The REL is nice, it shows the reference value.
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Min/max (P-H button) also shows the actual min/max below the actual value. Only issue can be reading the small numbers.
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The hold button will freeze the big display, but the small value will continue to update.
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The database of saved values. This is activated by holding the S button down. To save the currently frozen value use arrow to select the desired slot, then press save (Default is always #0).
Functions
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Buttons:

  • F1..F4: Functions depends on actual mode.
  • R: In DMM mode it is range select and in OSC mode it is auto setup.
  • S: It is hold in both DMM and OSC mode. When reading is frozen hold it down to enter database.

Rotary switch:

  • Off: Meter is off.
  • V: This is VDC/VAC/mVDC/mVAC/Hz/Duty-cycle, F3/SEL is used to select between DC/AC/Hz/Duty-cycle
  • ohm: ohm, diode, continuity and capacity, use F3/SEL to select.
  • °C: Temperature with thermocoupler, use F1 & F2 to select between Celsius and Fahrenheit.
  • mA: Milliampere range for AC and DC, use F3/SEL to select
  • A: Ampere range for AC and DC, use F3/SEL to select
  • oscac: Oscilloscope mode with AC input
  • oscdc: Oscilloscope mode with DC input
  • Off: Meter is off.

Only difference between the two oscilloscope modes is a capacitor in series with the signal in AC mode.
Input
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If you have multiple meters, be aware that this meter has placed the connection different than other meters.

  • OSC: Oscilloscope mode
  • 10A: High current (This can also be used a COM for OSC mode).
  • xxx: All other ranges.
  • COM: The common terminal for most ranges, large capacitor is excluded from this.

Waveform/Oscilloscope function
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A 1Vrms sine wave curve at 100kHz and 25MHz (-3dB point).
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A 100kHz square wave.
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A 10MHz square wave in DC mode with trigger moved to a positive value (1.15V, see top of screen).
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10s/DIV setting, AC mode cannot really be used here due to the slow signal. I do miss a restart button. At slow speed the single trig do not work.
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The DMM mode may not be good at fast PWM, but in OSC mode it is no problem to see a 3.3V 10% 100kHz PWM signal, but I must guess about the duty-cycle.
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Single pulse trigger can be used to capture communications, here it is the start of a NeoPixel message. I would have like to place the trigger at the screen edge to get more of the data, but that is not possible.
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Pressing F1/TIME or F2/VOLT will enter range adjustment (it is units/DIV):
Time: 10s, 5s, 2s, 1s, 500ms, 200ms, 100ms, 50ms, 20ms, 10ms, 5ms, 2ms, 1ms, 500us, 200us, 100us, 50us, 20us, 10us, 5us, 2us, 1us, 500ns, 200ns, 100ns, 50ns, 25ns, 12.5ns
Volt: 0.5V, 1V, 2V, 5V, 10V, 20V, 50V, 100V, 200V
The lowest voltage settings is not very sensitive.
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The trigger menu where it is possible to set raising/falling trig, single, normal, auto mode and move the level.
The manual also says something about cursors, I did not see them while use the oscilloscope mode.
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It is possible to save waveforms. First press the S/HOLD button to freeze the waveform, the hold down the S/HOLD button to enter the database, finally press F4/SAVE to save the waveform. These saved waveforms are remembered when power is off and there is space for 50 of them.
Measurements

  • Volt and frequency (DMM mode)

    • At 1Vrms frequency input range is from 10Hz to 30kHz
    • At 7Vrms frequency input range is from 0.8Hz to 150kHz
    • Frequency counter requires a zero crossing.
    • Duty cycle works from 20% to 80% at 10kHz with 4Vpp, precision is within 13
    • Duty cycle works from 5% to 95% at 1kHz with 4Vpp, precision is within 1
    • 1 VAC is 5% down at 2.1kHz
    • Min/max needs about 0.5s to capture a value, but it may requires many pulses (0.7s is much better).
    • Input impedance is 10-11Mohm on DC, AC.
    • Maximum voltage is 1000VDC and 750VAC

  • Oscilloscope mode

    • Input impedance is around 10Mohm
    • AC mode has a capacitor in series with the input.
    • -3dB is around 25mHz

  • Current

    • mA protected by 0.5A/250V probably a PTC
    • A is protected a 10A/250V SMD fuse

  • Ohm, Continuity, diode and capacitance

    • Ohm needs about 3s to measure 100ohm
    • Ohm is 1.0 open and -0.5mA shorted
    • Continuity is 1.0V open and 0.5mA shorted
    • Continuity is very fast (Less than 5ms).
    • Continuity beeps when resistance is below 50ohm.
    • Diode range uses 3.2V, max. display is 3.000V at 0.18mA, max. current is 2.2mA shorted
    • 10uF takes about 4 seconds to measure.
    • 70000uF takes about 8 seconds to measure.
    • Ohm and capacity input is rated for 250VDC/AC overload.

  • Miscellaneous

    • Current consumption of meter is 145mA (OSC at 5V/DIV or above is 175mA).
    • Meter works down to 3.5V where it will turn off, battery symbol shows empty at 3.5V
    • Display backlight fades slightly with falling battery voltage.
    • Meter reading is stable with falling battery voltage.
    • The meter often needs a couple of updates to show correct value.
    • Viewing angle is good
    • Display updates slightly below 2 times/sec
    • Will automatic turn power off in about 14 minutes.
    • Standard probes cannot be fully seated
    • Weight is 281g without accessories, but with batteries.
    • Size is 160 × 82.5 × 37mm.

  • Probes

    • Probe resistance 95mOhm for one.
    • Probe wire is soft and 82cm long.


1uF
A look at the capacitance measurement waveform for a 1uF capacitor.
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Input impedance in volt and frequency mode
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AT 10A the reading will slowly increase and after some time (about 30s) be out of specified tolerance. Specifications says range must not be used more than 30s at a time.
The lowest capacity range shows about 5% high at 1nF, but zero is correct.
Temperature has a 10°C offset.
Frequency only works up to 150kHz on V input, higher frequencies can be measure in oscilloscope mode.
NiMH will give slightly longer runtime, lithium will double runtime.
Tear down
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To open the meter I had to remove four screws.
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The meter uses two circuit board and they are soldered together with a screw below the top board.
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I had to unsoldering the boards from each other and removing the 5 screws that holds the bottom board in to get them out.
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The display (backlight) is also soldered to the circuit board and there is nothing below it. This means this side of the circuit board is pads for the buttons and the rotary switch, inputs for the transistor tester and the current shunt.
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On this side is the input circuit. The 10A current uses a SMD 10A fuse and probably a PTC for the mA input, there is also the usual PTC and resistor (900kOhm) for ohm input . The volt input uses two resistors (2×5Mohm) directly connected to the multimeter chip. The typenumber is removed from the multimeter chip, but it has a EEPROM (24C02) connected.
The OSC input has a optional capacitor (4.7nF 2kV) beside the battery box. Next is two input resistors (2×5Mohm) and a blue capacitor across the resistors. There is two relays and probably some analog switches to handle range selection
1
ADC circuit. The C65 may be a SN74LVC1G66 analog switch.
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The other circuit board has all the digital logic controlled by a microprocessor (STM32F401RCT), a FPGA (LCMX02-640HC) to do all the fast stuff and a chip with markings removed. There is also a 8 pin chip (ATNLH9072), maybe a EEPROM.
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On this side is a voltage regulator (7133-1) and some logic inverters (LC04A). The inductor (Marked 101->100uH) is some power filtering.
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Conclusion
As usual I doubt the CAT, a small SMD fuse cannot handle high voltage and current and the transistor tester makes it way to easy to touch high voltages.
This meter is much better than the two previous models, the multimeter is very similar to many other multimeters, but the graphic displays is used to improve some functions. The oscilloscope mode works this time, it has a good bandwidth, AC/DC works as expected, but there are still a lot of rough edges.
The battery life is bad for a multimeter, it is best to use recharge batteries.
Notes
The multimeter was supplied by banggood.com for review (I believe that Mustool is a Banggood brand).
How do I review a DMM
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Test/review of DlyFull B2 Universal LCD Battery Tester

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DlyFull B2 Universal LCD Battery Tester
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This tester has slots and places for many common battery sizes, but it do not support LiIon batteries.
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The tester arrived in a cardboard box with supported battery types listed.
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The box included the tester, a battery and a instruction sheet.
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A single AA battery is used to power the tester.
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The display is a couple of bars with markings on the tester what the number bars means:
1-5: Poor, 6-10: Weak, 10-18: Good
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Measurements


  • Power consumption when testing is 27mA
  • Power consumption when display goes automatic off is 27mA
  • Power consumption when off is 80uA
  • Will automatic turn display off after 60 seconds.
  • Turns off when internal battery voltage is below 0.7V, reading is stable until then.

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I tested with an alkaline, it was discharged with 0.1A in 0.2Ah steps. I stopped when the battery was down to 0.5V.
The discharged column is Ah (blue curve) and the rating (red curve) is how many bars are on the display, anything above 10 is good.
The value goes up when the battery rest a couple of hours, before I check the capacity.
If I had tested with lower load I could have discharged the battery mode.
Voltages
I tested all positions for voltage and current at 1, 6, 10, 18 bars, the table above show the result.
Bottom=First bar in section, Top=lasts bar in section.
Curve from a Alkaline battery test
Duracell%20AA-Pulse-0.1A-2h-10h-0.5V
The job of a battery tester is mostly hopeless, here I discharged a AA battery over a week, 2 hours on and 10 hours off. Every time I turn off the voltage will slowly creep up.
Duracell%20AA-Pulse-0.1A-2h-10h-0.5V-volt
This is again the result from above, but shown another way. The top curve is battery voltage after about 10 hours without load, next down is 10 minutes after load is removed, the 3. curve is 10 seconds after loads is removed and the bottom curve is with load on.
A battery tester may seen any of the 3 top curves, depending on when you test the battery, this means the same battery will look much more depleted when just removed from a active device, that a rested battery.
Tear down
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To open I had to remove four screws.
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Due to the display and some wires I did not want to remove the circuit board, especially because it is single sided and there is nothing on the other side, except battery test connections.
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There is a lot of parts inside the tester, each slot has its own sense resistor, there is not any real load resistors. There are two chip, the large one is unmarked and control the LCD display. I could not find any data on the small one.
Conclusion
This battery tester is mostly a voltmeter calibrated for battery state instead of voltage.
Notes
I got the tester from a DlyFull for review
Here is some voltage tables for estimating remaning energy in LiIon batteries

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Test/review of DMM Mustool X3

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DMM Mustool X3
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A clamp meter from Mustool that can only measure AC current.
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I got the meter in a generic clamp meter brown cardboard box with very little information on.
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Inside the box was a pouch with everything in it, except the manual that did not fit in the pouch.
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It included the DMM, a pair of probes, a thermocoupler and a manual.
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The probes are unbranded and marked for 1000V CATIII, but they do not have the partial tip cover.
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The shrouded plug is the slightly short variety.
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Flashlight is at the bottom of the meter, not the best position for a clamp meter.
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There is access to the electronic inside the battery box, but it do not look like calibration terminals (Maybe on another model).
Display
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The above picture shows all the segments on the display, not all are used.
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Typical display during usage, it will show the number and what measurement is selected.
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Meter is in auto mode, where it will automatic change to current, voltage or ohm.
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In NCV mode it shows bars depending on field strength, but it is not very sensitive, a live mains wire (230VAC) touching the clamp only got me one bar.
Functions
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The list of functions do fully not match the sequence they are selected in.
Buttons:


    power: Change mode: Auto/VDC/VAC/Continuity/Diode/Capacity/Celsius/Fahrenheit, hold down to turn on off.
    light: Turn flashlight on/off.
  • NCV: Hold down to activate non contact voltage detection
  • HOLD: Press to freeze display, hold down to turn background light on.

Input
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Clamp, used for AC current measurement.
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These terminals are used for Voltage, ohm, diode, continuity and temperature.

  • COM: The common terminal
  • xxx: The positive terminal.

Measurements

  • Volt and frequency

    • 1 VAC is 5% down at 2.1kHz (RMS will not work at the frequency).
    • Input impedance is 820kOhm on DC and AC
    • Initial range selection is a auto mode with ohm, continuity, volt DC/AC and ampere AC.
    • Auto will show VAC from about 0.47V and VDC from about 0.45V
    • Overload protection 700VDC or 500VAC peak

  • Current

    • Ampere range will kick in when measuring above 0.10A (Display shows 0.15A, but will drop)
    • Clamp can handle about ø27mm

  • Ohm, Continuity, diode and capacitance

    • Ohm needs about 1s to measure 100ohm (This is very fast for an auto ranging meter)
    • Ohm is 0.4V open and 0.15mA shorted
    • Continuity in auto mode is very slow (About 1.2s).
    • Continuity in continuity mode is very fast (About 10ms).
    • Continuity beeps when resistance is below 50ohm (Both modes).
    • Continuity is 0.6V open and 0.33mA shorted
    • Diode range uses 3.2V, max. display is 3.000V at 0.07mA, max. current is 1.0mA shorted
    • 10uF takes about 6.5 seconds to measure.
    • 11000uF takes about 13 seconds to measure.
    • 70000uF takes about 15 seconds to measure.
    • Overload protection 700VDC or 500VAC peak

  • Miscellaneous

    • Current consumption of meter is from 1.5mA to 3.5mA in continuity (11mA with backlight, 11mA with flashlight and 16mA with both).
    • Meter works down to 2.2V where it turns off, battery symbol shows at 2.4V.
    • Reading is stable until meter turns off
    • Backlight fades with voltage and works down to where meter turns off.
    • Flashlight fades with voltage and works down to where meter turns off.
    • The meter usual need a couple of display update to reach the final value.
    • Viewing angle is good.
    • Display updates around 3 times/sec
    • Backlight will automatic turn off in about 15 seconds.
    • Flashlight will not automatic turn off, but turns off with the meter.
    • Will automatic turn power off in about 15 minutes.
    • Standard probes cannot be pushed fully down.
    • Weight is 194g without accessories, but with batteries.
    • Size is 179 × 67 × 33mm

  • Probes

    • Probe resistance 48mOhm for one.
    • Probe wire is fairly soft and 74cm long.


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Auto range pulsing while searching for resistance and checking for voltages.
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Capacity waveform while measuring 1uF
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Meter is permanent in Low-Z mode.
Specification in manual are a mix between clamp meter and ordinary current meter and resolution includes an extra digit.
Tear down
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I had to remove 3 screws to open the meter.
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Circuit board is shaped to fit this enclosure, there is even a bump to match the enclosure opposite the clamp open handle.
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I had to remove 6 screw more to the get circuit board out, the clamp could just be pulled out.
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There is five wires into the clamp, two wires for a coil in each part and a wire for NCV.
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The input has the usually 3 paths with 10Mohm (Two MELF resistors), 1Mohm (910kOhm more exact: A small SMD resistor) and a PTC. The PTC goes to a electronic relay (AQV259A: 1000V relay) and then to a transistor pair for protection (T5 & T10) and from there through a resistor (R23: 1kOhm) into the multimeter IC. The more exiting path is the 1Mohm path, it goes directly to a pin on the multimeter IC and limits in the input impedance because the chips protection will divert any voltage above a few volt.
The multimeter chip (IC2: DMM1106BEN, but marked as HY12P65 on circuit board) has a EEPROM (24C08) to store calibration in.
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A closeup of the offending input resistor (R45).
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This side has the pads for the switches and for the LCD display, nothing else.
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Conclusion
With no current input terminals the meter is safer, but letting a small SMD resistor handle the full input voltage is not safe when getting into 100’s of volts. Calling a meter CAT… 600V with a 500VAC limit is very wrong.
The meter is a AC clamp meter and with current ranges up to 600AAC, the main mode when using input terminations is automatic with voltage and resistance, using the red button there is also capacity and temperature.
It is not a bad meter after a ordinary mains outlet, but not for anything with higher voltage or current. The clamp can be used on higher current, but do not try to measure on the input terminals.
Notes
The multimeter was supplied by banggood.com for review.
How do I review a DMM
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Test/review of Hantek CC-65 Current Clamp

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Hantek CC-65 Current Clamp
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This is a high sensitivity current clamp with a BNC connector for use with both multimeters and oscilloscopes.
Specifications:


  • DC current (low range): 1.5%+5mA 10mA to 20A
  • DC current (high range): 2%+20mA 100mA to 40A
  • DC current (high range): 4%+300mA 40mA to 65A
  • AC current (low range): 2%+30mA 100mA to 10A 40Hz ~ 2kHz
  • AC current (low range): 4%+30mA 100mA to 10A 2kHz ~ 10kHz
  • AC current (low range): 6%+30mA 100mA to 10A 10kHz ~ 20kHz
  • AC current (high range): 2%+30mA 100mA to 40A 40Hz ~ 1kHz
  • AC current (high range): 4%+30mA 100mA to 40A 1kHz ~ 2kHz
  • AC current (high range): 6%+30mA 100mA to 40A 3kHz ~ 5kHz
  • AC current (high range): 8%+300mA 40A to 65A 40Hz ~ 20kHz
  • Load resistance 10kOhm typical.

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The clamp arrived in a cardboard box, it is the model that handles the lowest currents in this series.
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I did also order a BNC to banana plug adapter, this means it will fit in any multimeter with standard spacing on the input terminals.
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The box contained the clamp and a instruction sheet.
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The clamp has a single switch for off-on low range-on high range and a button to zero the output.
There is also two indicators, one for on and one for low battery.
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The BNC to banana adapter, the side with a small wing (Bottom in photo) is the shield or minus side.
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Using the clamp with a multimeter.
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Measurements

  • Power consumption is 10mA in both low and high range.
  • Low battery turns on at 6.8V, this gives an estimated runtime of 50 hours.
  • 1V output can be maintained down to 6V battery voltage in both low and high range.

When using clamps to measure DC current the DC offset and drift is often a problem, especially at low currents.
Voltage%20offset%20after%20poweron
This is for the low range where 1mV=10mA current, i.e. during the first hour the reading change about 150mA.
Voltage%20offset%20after%20warmup
After the first test I used the zero button and tried again for one hour, again the reading changed about 150mA.
Voltage%20offset%20high%20range
For high range 1mV=100mA, here I combined the above two tests and pressed the zero button after about 45 minutes.
During the 80 minutes after pressing the zero button the reading changed 80mA, i.e. better than the low range.
Low%20range%200.5A%20current%20sweep
High%20range%200.5A%20current%20sweep
Error while measuring low current, the high range looks best. Some of the error can be eliminated be using zero just before doing a short measurement.
Low%20range%2075A%20current%20sweep
High%20range%2075A%20current%20sweep
Using a coil to multiply the current I can check at much higher current ranges. The low range cannot work higher than about 20A, the high range goes above 75A.
High%20range%20frequency%20sweep
Low%20range%20frequency%20sweep
The clamp can be used up to about 10kHz
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Measuring a current with a oscilloscope, I have used square wave because it is easier to see when frequency is limited.
In this curve there is only a little effect from the bandwidth.
Square%20wave%2010kHz
At 10kHz it get more obvious that the raise and fall times are limited.
Square%20wave%2050kHz
At 50kHz the signal is 50% too low and it is triangular.
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Using the high range is better, maybe because the signal level is lower.
Tear-down
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I needed to remove 3 screws to open it.
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And one screw more to take the circuit board out. I also had to unlock and remove the two cables from the clamp.
The sliders from the on/off switch dropped out.
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On this clamp meter is is possible to open the clamp, I had to remove 5 screws to open the stationary part.
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It contains a iron core with hall sensors at both end. The movable part will have a matching iron core, but without any sensor chips.
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The circuit board contains 7 trimpots and 8 opAmps in 4 chips (U6: TL062C & U1, U3 &U4: 3xTLC272). There is a reference (U2: LM385). There is a chip marked PA01 below the large capacitor.
There is some protection on the output (R18, D2, D3) and the film capacitors C3 is probably used for the zero button together with the OpAmp next to it.
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This side of the circuit board has the switches and indicator leds.
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Conclusion
The clamp can be used well below 1Afor measuring, it can be used to detect 10mA, but for real measurement some more current is needed. I had hoped for better performance on the low range. When measuring for some time the current must be large enough that the drift do not spoil the result.
Using it with a oscilloscope can be used to check the waveform and amplitude of current draw, without any significant voltage loss.

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Test/review of Clamp meter UNI-T UT258A

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Clamp meter UNI-T UT258A
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This is a clamp only meter, i.e. not really a DMM (Digital Multi Meter).
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The meter arrived in a cardboard box.
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It included the meter, a pouch, a CD, a USB/Serial cable and a manual in Chinese (A English version can be downloaded from UNI-T).
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Display
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The above picture shows all the segments on the display. It looks to be a standard DMM display, but this meter only uses part of it.
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Typical display during usage, it will show the number and what measurement is selected.
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Saving a value when pressing HOLD.
Functions
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Buttons:


  • Off/DC/AC: Slide the switch to desired mode.
  • HOLD: Use short press will freeze the display and save the current value. A longer press will switch to readout mode.

Rotary knob:

  • Zero: Turn the know to zero the current display, it is best done in DC mode.

Input
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The clamp is the only input to this meter.
Measurements

  • Current

    • The meter crashed a few times and had to be power cycled.
    • Both DC and AC will react on DC current, but the AC ranges show about 25% too high in one current direction.
    • Zero setting is common for AC and DC, but it is easier to adjust on DC due to the sign.
    • Clamp is rated for maximum 60A

  • Miscellaneous

    • Current consumption of meter is 12.3mA
    • Meter works down to 3.4V where it turns off, battery symbol show at 7.4V.
    • Meter has a small deviation below 3.6V.
    • Saved values are cleared when power is turned off.
    • Viewing angle is good, except from top.
    • Display updates around 3 times/sec
    • Will automatic turn power off in about 5 minutes.
    • Weight is 219g, with batteries.
    • Size is 216 × 65 × 35mm


TestDC
A test of DC shows that the DC offset is fairly stable and the current need to be above 10mA before it starts to work. When measuring high current (i.e. 10-60A) the clamp will be magnetized and need readjustment of zero or demagnetization before it shows correctly at low current again.
TestAC
AC also looks fine, but the sensitivity is not symmetrical around zero.
DMMschema
The meter has 3 current ranges, there can be some problems around the range change points.
Software
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The meter has a USB mini connector, this is a bit old fashioned.
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The cable is worse, it has a USB mini connector in one, but a old style RS232 serial connector in the other end. This means the USB connector is not USB, but RS232 signals.
setup
I downloaded the program, instead of using the CD. The installer is in English and looks fairly standard. There was no problems installing it.
start
But it would not start.
Tear down
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To open the meter I had to remove 3 screws.
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The zero adjust turns a trimpot, this is not good for long life.
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To get the PCB out I had to remove 4 more screws.
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Somebody has done a fairly bad job of removing the type numbers from the chips. There must be some OpAmps a voltage regulator, a mux (IC7: 74HC4051), probably a ADC (The processor only has 10 bit), the large IC is a processor (IC1: M430F… 8kB flash 256B ram) and there is a RS232 driver next to it (IC8: SP3232 RS232 driver with 13V output, not a good idea on a USB cable).
The USB connector is on a small add-on board.
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In this side is the the two switches and the display, that is on a add-on board with a COB chip on the back.
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Conclusion
Being a clamp only meter means that safety is fairly good, but probably not up to CATIII rating (The clamp has metal visible and there is a USB connector at the other end. The manual states 2KV/rms).
I had hoped for a really good meter for low current, it is fairly good and it do not drift nearly as much as many other clamp meters, but it has a couple of problems.
The meter do not read symmetrical in AC mode. The USB output with 13V RS232 signals is ridiculous, the firmware crashes frequently and do not save logged value when power is turned off. The PC software do not work out of the box.
Notes
How do I review a DMM

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Review NITECORE NSH10 - Multiuse Titanium Snap Hook

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NITECORE NSH10 - Multiuse Titanium Snap Hook

 

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NSH10 was sent to me directly by Nitecore for the review.
For technical details: https://flashlight.nitecore.com/product/nsh10
For the purchase:
https://www.nitecorestore.com/NITECORE-NSH10-Titanium-Multi-Tool-Carabiner-p/acc-nite-nsh10.htm

 



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How many times would we need a small sturdy and light carabiner to attach to the jeans buckle or to a backpack to have keys or other items quickly available?
The NITECORE NSH10 titanium carabiner is a light and elegant multipurpose edc carabiner. It has a precision workmanship and an elegant design with angular lines and a smooth, sandblasted fine finish, which allows a good grip.


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Specifications:

Model: NSH10
Materials: titanium alloy
Weight: 7.5g (0.26oz)
Dimensions: 49mm x 25.5mm x 3.8mm (1.93 "x 1" x 0.15 ")
Use: EDC (daily transport), external, travel



Nitecore NSH10 arrives in a small blister with the main characteristics that distinguish the small carabiner listed.
 


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Nitecore NSH10 is light, weighs only 7.5 grams, and is made from a single piece of titanium alloy resistant to corrosion, wear and long life.


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Nitecore NSH10 has a 45 degree spring lock that is easy to handle.


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Nitecore NSH10 it is easy to carry it always with you, hooked to a belt or bag loop, like a light and resistant key organizer.

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Multi-tool functionality:

 

The NSH10 has two compartments, which can be accessed via a single latch that allows you to organize the key ring.


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Two accessory functions have been added to the Nitecore NSH10 carabiner, a bottle opener and a flathead screwdriver.
These two functions are very useful and can be used on many occasions.


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We see the NSH10 close to other EDCs:

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CONCLUSIONS:

The Nitecore NSH10 carabiner is a light and useful multipurpose to always carry with you. You can easily and securely attach bunches of keys or other small objects. Excellent construction and the material with which it is made. Useful the bottle opener and the flat tip to be used as a screwdriver. In conclusion it is an object that I will always carry with me considering the small size and weight and the great utility it can have.

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